I can see on my drivers side front disk an area about 1/2 wide in the middle of
the disk that is not being touched by pad ? Pass side looks well broke in. I only have 300 miles on it but as soft as these pads are I think either the pad is bad or the rotor ?

 

how are you bedding them in? are you heating them up (60-20mph hard stops.. 10 in a row until you can smell your brakes??).. or just normal driving..


normal driving is not bedding as you never get the pads hot enough to transfer material to the discs.


phil.

 

Did not try that . Will do. I have to go to dealer Saturday to pick up some stuff so I will try that method first before talking to SA. My new clubman has spent far to much time with dealer already so not wanting to give it up again.

 

I had done some reading where the article said for European cars the pads tend to bed in from out to in, and once you see that all of the rotor is being used then you do the 60-10 stops. I got EBC green pads about 1000 miles ago with new Centric rotors and I think the rotors are just getting that full contact patch so I haven't bed them in yet.

 

You should bed your brakes in as soon as you put new brake pads on

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NAMotoring

 

Is OP asking about his new '13?

do you aggressively bed the brakes when you buy a new car?

when you do a test drive do you assume the dealer aggressively bedded the brakes? Or do you assume the brake performance sucks because they were NOT bedded?

Enquiring minds want to know . . .

 

Probably not necessary to bed brakes in on a new car. More important when you're swapping to higher performance brake pads that actually need to be bedded in.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NAMotoring

 

EBC Greens recommended bed-in procedure is actually driving normally for 500-1000 miles and then doing the harsh bed-in process, as far as I know. I think others are like how you describe though

 

Probably not necessary to bed brakes in on a new car.

Why not? .... most posts about brake changes here describe aggressive bedding when changing pads and rotors.

Is there something special about a new car's pads and rotors that make this un-necessary?

what's different about a new car versus new pads and rotors? Or is the basic logic of an aggressive bedding wrong in the case of an average driver?

****

frankly I think you've got it wrong ....

'aggressive bedding' is needed when you do a track change and need 'em bedded FAST while slow bedding by using the brakes carefully for the first several hundred miles is a better plan for everyday drivers. And what the average 'brake place' tells you to do.

This is how I've done it for 40 years anyway . . .

 

EBC greens aren't an aggressive pad and are fine with just normal street driving to bed them in. Just like with any other stock or "regular" brake pad.

I guess I should have been more descriptive. Aggressive bedding of the brakes when you're using a regular street pad isn't necessary. If you switch to a high performance pad then it's important to bed the brakes in aggressively because you have to get them up to their operating temp in order for the pad to transfer friction material to the rotor. It's not about bedding them in after 2 miles vs 200 miles. If you just daily drive around on a set of Carbotech XP-12s they're never going to get up to temp and therefore never really "bed in".

Any of the "regular" pads I've put on other people's cars or my own I've never bedded in. Never had any issues.

 

I have only bought 1 new car (wife's) but I bed the brakes in on it as I would when I do new brakes on my cars. I dont see how it is any different, the car only had 6 miles on it when we got it...I doubt they were bed in.

 

I've always done the 50 MPH - 5 MPH heat sequence on my and my family members cars. Never had issues with a car I did it on. I also got 88,000 miles out of my Jurid pads on the front of my BMW.

On the other hand I've not done it to many other cars also never had issues with noise, wear, etc. I just tell the owners to use the brakes gently for the first 500 miles, like most pad installation instructions say.

The one car that truly needed it was a newer Range Rover with big Brembos up front. The little squeak front up front didn't go away until I did a good heat cycle.

I'd do it.

 

They recommend the same procedure for all cars that will be driven on the street, not just green pads. EBC Red and Yellow pads that I have purchased have indicated the same procedure as well. I assume, since blue and up aren't targeted at the street, they probably have different instructions but I've never owned them so I can't comment on that.

--Matt

 

Well 550 miles and still have a gap in center
Of rotor with no contact.

 

I did not see a response if these are OEM from the factory pads or aftermarket. If they are installed pads, are they in correctly? There is an inside and outside pad. There are nubs on the backing plate that let it slide in and seat correctly. The pad with the slot for the sensor is always the inside pad. Unfortunately they will fit in the wrong way. (Don't ask me how I know.)

 

Car has 500 miles on it. Brand new from factory

 

Ouch. Did you grease the caliper pins thoroughly when changing the pads? I'd think they'd be in good shape from the factory, but it's worth a look.

--Matt

 

If they "feel" OK, you are probably good to drive moderately until you can get it back to the dealer.

 

??? The car is brand new , 500 miles on odometer ,
Came from England like this.

 

Dealer time. Call the MINI roadside assistance and have them tow it, if you want to be safe.