essentially my thinking... but, they had said that they would call me Wednesday with an update/plan, and as of yet, nothing... so I'm curious as to what's to come...

 

Maybe they're trying to get a price on parts needed or perhaps the service tech is sick or off on certain days. They could also be waiting to hear from somebody at Mini USA, maybe they'll cover a percentage. When I had my MCS in for the walnut media blasting it did start getting worked on for two days because the service tech who is trained to perform the valves cleaning wasn't in for the first two days after dropping off my MCS. It could be anything, rarely does your Mini receive attention right after dropping it off, you have to get in line because they're other cars being worked on.

 

I just saw that other invoice, 11 hours of labor? JESUS! is that really how long it takes to replace the timing chain assembly? How much have others paid at indy shops?

 

No, that's how dealers earn their income by over inflating the price ($165 per hr at my dealer), they say it takes longer than it should. Dealers have been doing this for decades. The labor charged is never for actual time spent replacing parts, Mini dealer mechanics if anything can perform even faster now that replacing timing chain assembles is so common. This is why most find a reputable repair shop other than the dealer, that's how small businesses make their money, by those who refuse to pay dealer prices.

When I had my tranny remove from the car it came down after 90 minutes but was charged for 5 hours and 5 more to attach it back.

 

All though I'm not a fan of " paying a lot for this muffler" Some In site into what you describe.

A Dealer labor rate is higher then private shop because.........
A) You see the nice multi million dollar building that is REQUIRED to be a dealer Local guy does not have theses constraints

B) techs writers managers parts people and support staff all get paid from that labor rate. Training insurance medical big numbers local shops don't have to deal with in scale

C) loaner cars. Lots of them. Does the local guy have them? Free coff bagels. Shuttle service pretty waiting areas. Local guy usually has none of this

D) tools and equipment. State of the art every PC and softwear and hand tool that you could imagine has to be available Dealers don't go out and borrow tools

E) we need to understand FLAT RATE MANUALS. these are the guides that the whole industry uses to provide you with an estimate. Example water pump leaking book says 2.3 hrs shop legally has to provide you a number ( and in ny can only vary by 10% by law ) so they say 2.3 hrs. Tech gets it done in 55 minutes not because shop was ripping you off , you paid for the guys 10 years experience the lift the shop the commission on the sale the tools consumables etc etc etc. NOW. let's say 2 bolts were seized into the block it took the guy 3 hrs just to get the bolts out and another 1/2 to tap the holes the shop still charges you 2.3 hrs. Independent shops are great. And I am not knocking them. But they don't have the resources that a dealer provides and the consumer pays for that. MOST important a dealer is a business. A business to take care of customers and make a profit just like whatever business it is that you are in. They are not charities although they have deep pockets nearly through there volume and scale. You won't believe me but dealer service depts run on average only 3% to 5% margins. TOPS

Local guys charge less because they don't have to cover the overhead but I bet the is still making money on you.

Every one has choices some prefer dealers some don't At the dealer don't be shy of trying to negotiate a price either. Ask for coupons /discounts

Again not bashing you or the local guy. Just giving real world insite to those that may not know. Oops. Sorry for thread hijack.

Regards.

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring

 

finally heard back late this afternoon. The diagnosis was timing chain tensioner fault (backed out), causing loss of engine oil and resulting in the need for a complete engine replacement.

The good news? The dealer was discussing it with MINI USA and they decided that, given the circumstances, that they are going to cover the repairs. I'll be without my car for a while longer, but... this sounds like it's about the best case scenario. Not sure what having a new engine does for a car, but I guess it'll be back to normal motoring after a break-in period.

 

Wow! Be happy they are covering this for you. To be honest im impressed. There must have been some pretty serious engine damage done from the tensioner falling all the way out. Glad to hear they are taking care of you. How many miles did your old motor have?

 

I had just crossed 47k when the car died... and yeah, I'm pretty surprised and happy... I was getting ready to discuss with the dealer/Mini USA and then fight with my extended warranty... instead, I'm wondering if I should bring donuts or something to the service guys when I go in...

 

Ha Ha Im happy this is all working out for you! This is more of a fairy tale story. Rarely do you see them take care of it with out some kind of fight. Be happy and by all means keep us updated on your MINI. Congrates!

 

P.S. Bring donuts!!! That will win them over! ha ha lol.

 

was your car part of the campaign?

 

Wow you're getting a new engine, just double check the manufacturing date just incase it was assembled with the defective timing chain components! Make sure there are up to date, it would be a nightmare only to have this happen again. You will have to break-in the engine since it's new, hopefully without known N14 defects.

 

I was out having dinner when I got the call, so I didn't ask all the questions that I have. I can only assume that it fell into the campaign, or that there was some obvious massive malfunction that compelled them to perform the repairs.

 

Thanks for this bit of information. I will be sure to ask all about it when I stop by to talk on Monday. And to find out how the dealer suggests the break-in goes, as it's been a while since I've done that with a new engine, and never with a turbo.

 

Don't take their word for it, ask to inspect the tensioner with your own eyes. I wouldn't have it any other way even if they told me what I wanted to hear! Preferably before they install the engine, demand an inspection of the tensioner and ask to see a manufacturing date.

 

There were a few early engines in which the timing chain tensioner was not properly torqued at the factory. It seems that yours was one of them, not a faulty tensioner, faulty installation.

Dave

 

Dave should there be a lock washer? That would solve a lot of problems, but that would shorten the tensioner length.

 

It should be torqued to 48 ft-lbs. There is a seal ring on it. It shouldn't back out when installed properly.

Dave

 

I posted earlier that I had taken my MINI to the dealer where I purchased it new and asked them to measure the slack in the timing chain. My MINI had app. 90k miles when I took it in. They told me the slack on the timing chain was 70mm and the maximum allowable was 68mm and it should be replaced. They quoted me $1,450 which I declined.

I explored my options with purchasing the parts and also cam and crank locking tools and also finding an independent shop. I elected to have Helix in Philadelphia do the job for $771 plus tax.

While researching do the job myself I found that parts and special tools would cost at least $500. My other concern was torquing the various bolts properly. I watched Mike at Helix torque the crank bolt and I don't think I could have done it properly.

Very satisfied with the job and the engine definitely runs smoother. Find a competent local shop to repair your MINI at reasonable prices!

Thanks Helix

 

Perhaps someone can help. I have tried to read all the threads for clarification. I own a 2009 Clubman S. In 4/2012 with 15200 miles, I developed a massive oil leak and they replaced the crush washer on the timing chain tensioner.

Given those findings what is my next move and would I be part of the service campaign? Is there something I need to do? I would say my car rattles a bit with cold starts Currently at 30K and out of warranty based on years.

 

2010 Clubman S with approx. 80,000 miles. Self diagnosed it to have a bad timing belt but would not do that work myself. Had it towed to a local shop who diagnosed that the camshaft positioner and turbo diverter valve needed replaced. Just got a message from them that it was identified during the other repairs that the timing belt was stretched too far and brooke the guides. Already $600 in for the diverter valve and position sensor and now this. I just replaced the thermostat housing a few months ago form the other engineering mistake on the car. What's next? I may just fix it and sell it. As fun as it is, it is not worth the upkeep. I also had a code that may indicate the valve cover needs replaced.

 

I hear your pain. 2010 JCW with about 88k on the clock - here was what went on that car:- Fuel Pump, Clutch, timer chain/guides, thermostat housing, valve cover replacement, a big oil leak by the turbo, various vacuum leaks and a whole bunch of valves (inc the diverter valve). The straw that broke the camel's back - a mysterious engine malfunction that my fantastic mechanic (meant sincerely - he's fantastic) couldn't diagnose.

After online research (possibly here) he concluded that if I took the car to the dealer, they'd insist on the turbo being replaced, but that would be unlikely to fix. Hence a variety valves being replaced that "might" fix it but no guarantees. If it happens again, turbo is out. 2 days later, refusing to drive the car any longer, it was driven to a dealer and traded in.

That thing was on a flatbed 3 times in the last year alone.

Done. Never getting a mini again. Too many high performance parts on an engine that can't cope.

My current car is the only non mini I've ever owned (and I started in a 1975 classic mini so I know about cars that break down - they, however, were cheap to fix).

 

Here is the picture I got from the mechanic.

 

If I were you I'd replace the valve cover as its already off. I'm sure if your mechanic is nice he won't bill you labor for it. It's about $300 from www.ecstuning.com you might also want to compare their price of the timing chain cassette to what your mechanics cost is and maybe save some money.

 

About a month ago I started having drops of oil in my driveway. It was right after having an oil change, so I figured maybe they may have had a little spill and that was all. It didn't get better so I thought maybe they didn't replace the washer on the drain plug. I made an appointment to get it looked at and within a week suddenly my spots went from dime size to pancake sized. The mechanic I had look at it said the timing belt tensioner pulley was half a turn from completely falling off....