Filled up a 1/2 tank to full of 93 octane at local Shell station to head to Healeys at Hershey today. I didn't make it. 5 to 8 miles from station on the freeway, my 2007 R56s (68,000miles) started to misfire with loss of power. Pulled out the ODBII and got P0300, P0301, P0303. Limped home and pulled a P1497 and P013A.

Engine light is on, but onboard diagnostic from stock says all Engine OK. Inspected for leaks, check hoses, wires and clamps, all ok. I swapped the coil packs on 4 and 3, no change in the ODBII scan.

I had the timing chain change, waterpump and HPFP replaced a few years back and the carbon walnuted less than 2 years ago.

We have had a lot of rain the past week and I suspect it may be water in the gas. Any ideas on how to prove it? Could it be something else?

Thanks,
-End

 

With all the ethanol in modern gas, 10%, water is rarely an issue today...possible...but rare...
How many miles total and since the walnut blasting?

 

Thanks for the reply. Had the walnut blast around 50000. I suspect the P1497 and P013A are results of the misfire. Gonna replace the plugs if i can find a 14mm deep star socket at the local car parts store.

 

The socket must be a thin walled....
I kinda wonder if it might be water...another poster got a load of crappy water logged gas..he drained is tank...seemed to fix it...(first one in recent memory)..try some drygas...the isopropl version... Don't overdue it, but might be worth the $1.29 to see if it helps....cheaper than a $20 socket!!

 

Here is some info they may or may not help you.

The code P1497 - Downstream Throttle Air Leak
This is usually a leaking valve cover...check your turbo inlet tube leaks as well, specifically down near where it connects to the turbo. Check your intake tubes also.

I believe the code P013a O2 Sensor Slow Response - Rich to Lean (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

 

So I was able to score a 12pt 14mm thin-walled deep socket from the nearby Sears for $4.99 plus tax. I pulled all the plugs, and 1 and 3 had heavy carbon deposits. Tried to find them local, and no one can get them till Monday, so I swapped 1 & 2 and 3 & 4- cleared the codes and tried again. I still pull P0300, P0301, P0303 and P1497, rough idle and loss of power. I am unsure if the P1497 is related to the misfire codes.

I now suspect something else, as ethanol should help with water in the gas if there was any. I did pick up a bottle of HEET to have on hand just in case. Perhaps a skipped timing chain or stuck open fuel injectors? Any ideas. Thanks for the suggestions.
-End

 

Dealer called. Looks like a chipped valve in Cylinder 3. Said the head needs to be rebuilt at $6200, but recommends a new engine at $8600 with 2yr warranty and unlimited miles. I see others have had faced this problem and thinking I may bow out of the Mini and get something else. Any thoughts?

 

Why replace an entire motor for a valve issue?!
An independent shop SHOULD be able to yank the head, get it machined, valve fixed, and reinstalled.....maybe 3 days if no exchange head is available....cost would be basicly a head gasket and a valve job+valves (if you do more than one).
Perhaps they suspect the valve chip either damaged the turbo/wastegate or the the dammage came from a timing issue.....but that is a crazy quote IMO for a repair!!
Then again.....remember, dealers tend to be PARTS CHANGERS....NOT REPAIR SHOPS.
There is always a chance the chipped valve was from hard contact on the piston....but yanking a head is pretty simple before spending so much more $$$.
Sounds like the dealer wants to sell a new car....shame they are gonna make it be a nonmini....rather than a (possibly) simple repair for $2500 or less.....

 

The quote sounds a little bit high, but not ridiculous depending on what the quote includes for replacement. Should be closer to around $5500 at a MINI dealer to remove the head and get it rebuild then reassemble.

Just removing the head is like a 10hr job becuase they remove the whole front clip of the car to get the head off just to inspect it. Then you never know what else is wrong with the head that they cannot see yet. Just to remove the head and reinstall it, even if you did nothing else to the head, you need to buy something like $350-$400 worth of non-reusable parts like gaskets, lock nuts, and replacement studs.

All the little components of the head itself are pretty expensive from MINI. So even though they said they only see one valve that chipped, they may have included replacing many more head parts in the quote.

Does MINI parts offer a complete, pre assembled factory head? I am most familiar with Japanese car manufacturers, and they all will sell you a new complete factory head with the whole valvetrain in it preassembled and ready to bolt on. With Japanese cars, buying a new complete head assembly from the parts department is nearly always cheaper than all the labor costs involved in rebuilding a head. I don't know if MINI offers it, but worth investigating...

 

Wow sorry to hear that. Just curious to know if the dealer removed the head to know that was the problem. What other tests were done like compression or leak down? Good luck and keep us posted.

 

The biggest $$ difference is the shop rate...
A local mini centric shop down the road that does 50% of their work on mini's charges $88 per hour....the 3 "local" dealers charge $160-180 per hour....
The local shop does not offer free loaners... But will install OEM parts, delivered from the dealer (usually 2 deliveries daily)...at lower cost than the dealers too..(about 25-20% less)...so lower parts cost, lower labor..

 

Gonna call tomorrow.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/n14-com...-cooper-s.html

 

Yes, a fully assembled head with valvetrain is available, part number 11127577371. quoted at just over $2000 from pelican parts.