my 2011 MCCS has been pretty reliable. Thermostat housing failed and I had a factory defect rear its head after 60,750 miles. The end stop pin for the valvetronic gear backed out of place allowing the gear to become disengaged from the motor. Car wouldn't start and I had to have it towed. Seems that MINI is going to cover it since the sleeve where the pin resides was installed wrong and there was no sign of the engine being opened previously. Plus, the cylinder head looked brand new when they took the valve cover off.

 

80K on my 2011 countryman s, recently added Mario DP, stage 2 manic, removed both cats + resonator and added an axle exhaust Megan Racing.
More ponies and more fun, recently replaced both gas pumps under warranty.

 

2012 Mini Clubman S 70k

18k: oil leak - oil pump solenoid valve assembly, engine harness assembly, and gasket replaced. coolant temp sensor replaced under campaign

36k: engine malfunction - reduced power: high pressure fuel pump & pressure hose assembly replaced

69k: check engine light - replaced tank vent valve that was stuck open, oil filter housing gasket (they said it was leaking coolant), lower control arm bushings, cracked drive belt

I'm pretty easy on the car. Mini says this is all normal. Relative to all my previous cars (Acura, VW, Ford Truck) which were all run to 100-200K+ without having to replace anything (not even the clutch) it doesn't feel normal. But none of those cars had this kind of engine. My warranty ends in a year, so I'm a bit worried.

 

2012 S coupe 30000km, 18750miles for non metric. Car was loosing 1/4 pint a week of coolant, but only dropped to minimum level in reservoir bottle.

(Edit) I spoke to the mechanic who did the repair today, he said it was the main water pump. He said it is called electric because it has a solenoid that activates it? He also complained about the lack of space.

I was told an oil solenoid is sweating, but am not sure where it could be. I know there is one on each cam VANOS.

 

Try to fix the oil solenoid asap. Oil seeps through the wire harness and can fry a module. If caught in time they can just replace part of the harness that is oil seeped.

 

Thanks cargusjoh, I will be spending some time fitting my GFB DV+ next week and will be searching for these sweating valves.
Mini Garage (official BMW service centre) who spotted the water pump leak, seemed to think this would only begin to seep next year, so at next service it will be done.

 

47k miles on my 2013 model. No engine issues. Had thermostat replaced once. clutch and throw-out bearing and i've had to do an intake valve cleaning and change the spark plugs. The engine runs strong through and i've kept up with service quite well.

 

87k miles. Bought used at 86.6k. loved it until last monday when she left me stranded on the Highway.. popped a head gasket and possibly damaged internals. very upset however I can't Blame the Mini because IDK what caused the malfunctioned yet, she gave me no warning! I'm blaming the S***hole that sold it too me at this point!! Other than this set back I adore my First MCS

 

You would be the first person needing valves cleaned I heard of. Not sure about them needing it.

My 2013 has had zero engine issues. My 2012 needed new plugs at 30K and a new coil at 50K.

 

I've owned my 2013 MCS since new and it now has over 57k miles on it. 20k miles ago, I added the Manic stage 2 tune with a high performance cat DP and larger intercooler, so I occasionally drive it hard (but not tracked). No engine issues and it still has the original clutch.

 

Bought it at 58k miles last week. Strong gas smell coming from exhaust pipes, white smoke, not sure how much just notice it when I first start it up, and coolant looks like chocolate milk, could be mixed colors and/or rust. Other than that car seems to run just fine. This is my first mini Cooper and my first turbo. I'll be doing a radiator flush and fill tomorrow, and using gas treatment to see if that fixes the smell.

 

Was this a private sale, or from a dealer? Did you have any pre-purchase inspection done?

Sounds like you may have bought some major problems - probably oil in the coolant, possibly coolant in the oil, possible stuck injector, etc. If you bought this from a dealer, take it back. If you bought it from a private party - good luck. Check the oil asap to make sure there's no coolant in it, and get a good scanner to see if there are any codes set.

 

Going to be checking the oil tomorrow morning. I'm financing the car through a dealer. A few days after I got the car I had addressed the issues with the car salesman and they gave me a rent car while they kept my car to check it. When I first got it, the coolant was completely green. And then when I got it back they said the coolant level was low and added straight water to it and now it looks like a dirty brown. I did notice a lot of rust floating around in the green coolant when I first got it.

 

2014 N18 in a Countryman S, manufactured Nov 2013. It is now just shy of four years old. A few months ago I did the first non-dealer oil change. I took an oil sample and sent it to Blackstone for analysis. Here's the write-up of the result…



Oh, and I had to add oil part-way through the interval.

N18 engine isn't as effed as the N14 was, but I have real reservations about its longevity. Maybe my wife would like to trade her Countryman S for a WRX hatch…

 

2013 MCS JCW 6 speed manual. Purchased new, ~85k miles, wife's daily driver/commuter.


Needs first set of brakes, lost count of tires, but 6 sets would not be an exaggeration...NJ potholes damage tire sidewalls every few months.


A/C needed recharge recently...dealer recommends intake cleaning and front strut mount replacement (beginning to fail on one side).


Engine has been trouble free so far, but CEL light has come on and I need to read the code to see what's up. Its making power just fine, hopefully a simple fix.


Not happy with the tire issues and suspension parts failing. Our '06 started to fall apart around the same mileage. Probably selling the car soon.


Anyone looking for a JCW?

 

I'm in a 12' S @92k. Things that WILL need to be replaced along the 90k ride will be the HPFP (covered on my car till 120k via MINI), plugs and coils, thermostat and MAYBE the water pump depending on which one the car came with. Front lower control arm bushings and front struts but those are normal maint. items and at 90k they'll be toast. You'll have gone through a few sets of rotors and pads in the front and just one set of rotors on the back. My MINI get's new rubber every other year if not less (I buy nothing but summer performance tires, haven't tried any A/S high mileage tires).

 

They do seem to start to unravel after 80k. Damnit.

 

Guys mine is a 2013 Mini Cooper jcw with 140 k miles and still runs great