+ 1

 

2013 Clubbie S @ 25K

Leaking oil sensor, replaced under warranty. This is a known problem. I'd check it or have it checked and replaced.

Otherwise no other engine issues and I drive with gusto!

 

2011 MCS manual, almost 28k. Bought at 21k. Previous owner had the thermostat replaced under warranty due to not passing smog check. I took her to MINI of Escondido for a "check-up" before factory warranty expires. They replaced the main water pump (not leaking, but SA said it looked "suspect"), replaced the oil control solenoid and harness (soenoid had just started weeping a bit), and the right side fuel sender, as I was getting inaccurate readings on my fuel gauge. Still getting inaccurate fuel level readings, but no biggie. They also replaced some "aesthetic" items, like discoloring DTC button, and steering wheel buttons, chrome trim on front bumper, as well as discoloring door sill plates. ALL under remaining factory warranty, with a free loaner car for a week, and I bought an extended Hendricks warranty as well, which should cover me for the next 6 years. I love my MINI, and the N18! As long as I can keep tires on her...those seem to go away rather quickly, as I drive this little rocket like I stole it! LOL!

Also...I am running Mobil 1 0w40, and change that, with a factory oil filter, every 5k. Maybe a bit excessive, but I am that way. I may need to add a half-quart between changes, but that's not bad considering my hot climate, and the hard use I subject her to! Enjoy your MINI, I know I am LOVING mine!

 

'13 JCW HT 26K brought in for scheduled maintenance today. Was informed that there was a leak in the water pump. Otherwise happy owner compare to when I had my MINI certified '07 MCS couple years ago that needed 2 engine replacement and was lemon'd.

 

Hi all, just adding a data point. 2013 R56 MCS, HPFP failed on the freeway at 42K miles, lost all power (scary). Dealer says permanent fail on the HPFP, covered under warranty but unfortunately sounds like still some HPFP issues even with the N18. The dealer admitted it was not uncommon, even with newer model years.

 

My 2011 HPFP replaced last week @ 40000 miles, Countryman N18. I knew it was failing so I went in before it died on me.

 

Well, I am up to 58k now. One HPFP and 2 auxillary water pumps, one belt-driven water pump and pulley, 4 coil packs, a belt tensioner so far, along with the already mentioned aesthetic items. I am sure I am forgetting a couple more, but I do have all records. Just not going through that pile now, all the mods and repairs. More mods than repairs, happily, and so far, all repairs have been covered by the remainder of my factory warranty, then by my Hendricks extended warranty. I am very happy with my MINI. Granted, she has been down a few times, but I always got a free loaner car. Even when I hit a rather large dog at 60 MPH or so. Not a warranty issue, for sure, but was still granted a loaner 2011 S Countryman for the better part of 3 weeks. Smiles still appear on my face every day that I drive her! What the future will bring, nobody knows. I will just stay up on my maintenance, and keep burning tires off! Motoring On.....

 

you love pain... I had an '08s too had enough of Mini and their BS. What a crappy car, plagued w/ tons of problems. You really have to love this car to deal w/ all the work it constantly needs and the exorbitant expense to keep it running. I won't even get into all the work my Mini needed w/ only 32k miles on it. Sold it and couldn't be happier ...i'll never purchase another mini car. The quality is just really bad, -wish I knew before I drank the koolaid.

Something occured to me the other day, that is you never see 1st or 2nd generation minis on the road. All you see are the newer models less than 2 or 3 years old. Very telling in my opinion.

 

I have the opposite experience, here in the SF Bay area I see R50/53 and R56 models all over the place. Really a surprising number of 1st gens since they are all 10+ years old now.

Glad I don't have an N14 engine though. My 2012 N18 hasn't been perfect but the problems have all been minor and dealt with under warranty.

 

Yea, SF has tone of Gen 1 MINIs, that was one of the best selling MINI dealership in the nation back in the day.

 

And very false in my opinion. I see almost as many gen1 Minis on the road as gen2 up here in NE.

Perhaps "all I see" would have been more accurate than "all you see".

 

What the heck are you talking about?!? Where do you live that all the MINIS are only a couple of years old?

 

I have a 2011 mcs with auto, just hit 134,000 miles, drives terrific.

While I love it to death I do not recommend it for the kids or anyone who doesn't want to work on it themselves.

Experience: under warranty during first year of ownership-thermostat recall and auxiliary water pump replaced, (bad temp sensor left me with a no start but mini service towed me to prestige mini of nj and repaired no cost to me while giving me loaner)
Trunk latch replaced.

Out of warranty dealer repairs-- water pump went at 90k miles. $450 prestige

Out of warranty not repaired--oil leak at oil pump solenoid underneath since about 60 k miles
Occasionally trunk not latched light comes on

Diy : annual remove intake manifold and brush clean intake valves with crc cleaner
3 times year change oil. Mini/Bmw 5w30.
Clean k & n air filter with oil change
Occasionally change interior air filter and wiper blades ( biannual, on the order of once every two years)
Annually since 90 k miles change transmission fluid in pan with redline d4 ( 2x. 2 quarts)
Tire rack tires usually kumho ecsta 4x or pa31. About 30 k miles per set
Brakes are ebc green stuff First installed front and rear pads at 30 k miles with pad remaining on original pads; Changed rotors and pads at 130 k ( disconnected brake sensors at 30 k when Oem still had half pad remaining though sensor indicated worn)
Drive belt at 90 k
Changed both camshaft position sensors at 110 k miles. To clear codes
Changed timing chain tensioner at 115k miles preventive only no codes
Changed vanos intake solenoid at 130 k miles. Dirty but no codes, preventive.
Windshield replaced at 130k miles by safelite-- they left top black molding slightly loose. Rock from truck caused bullet hole that spread after repair.

 

Really nice feedback. Thanks.

 

Tallandmini, how much carbon buildup do you find when you pull the intake for valve cleaning? How many miles between cleanings, approximately? Any pics of the buildup? Lastly, how hard do you drive your 2011 S? Thanks in advance.

 

Renchjeep,

I am truly sorry about not taking pictures, you guys have been so good about creating how to's that's the only way I undertake my shade tree work.

I see a film over the whole runner with thickest down at the valves maybe 3 mm of buildup at the valves, I don,t try to get every bit off the valves, just scrub blind and let soak for 20 minutes, maybe 3 iterations each valve. Definitely some carbon has become glazed to the top of the valves in spots, maybe .5 mm remains after cleaning, Just a guess. Of course the walls and stems come clean.

I do about 29 k miles per year and try to do this annually in the spring.

I have an easy commute with mostly highway miles, so 50 miles takes about 1 hour, top speed reached about 90 mph @ 3000 rpm, not really pushing it just flow of rush hour traffic in this stretch of nj. yes this is an s, still no sign of oil leak on oil supply line to turbo, but there is a very slight seep off the tube coming off the valve cover to the turbo since about 100000 miles.

 

Thanks, Tallandmini. Maybe try to take some pics next time the intake is off? I am at 58k, and have never cleaned my intake valves. I do drive hard, which some say will keep the carbon buildup at bay. I also run a can of Seafoam every 5 or so tanks of gas. I know that this supposedly does nothing for the intake valve carbon buildup issue, as the fuel is injected after the valves, but I figure it helps to at least keep my injectors clean. As I said, I do practice the "Italian tune-up" frequently, as I see the redline at least twice per day on my mountainous commute. My Grandpa used to "blow the cobwebs" out of his cars frequently back in the day. It seemed to work, so I stick by that. Glad to see an N18 at 130k plus with minimal issues! I plan to keep my R56S for a long time. It's just so fun to drive! Motor on!

As a P.S., may I ask what your valve cleaning method is? What do you use in addition to the CRC to clean the valves and runners? I assume you bring each cylinder to TDC on compression before starting the cleaning?

 

I use a variation of what texasmontego posted as carbon cleaning the right way.

There is another 10 mm bolt holding a bracket on the bottom on the intake manifold I don't think he described, you can see it when you take the right front tire off and look up from underneath with a light if necessary.

In addition to the intake cleaner I bought a $20 gun cleaning kit and use a combination of brass bristled brushes, cotton heads and large cotton patches, finishing with air. I usually pull the spark plugs too.

I turn the the crank at the damper bolt just until I see a valve open, and then work on the opposite set a pair at a time ( so if cylinder 1 has an open valve, I will work on 2 and 3).

 

There are about 230,000,000 passenger vehicles registered in the US. Mini sold 45,000 cars in 2006 (last gen 1). I don't have sales figures for earlier years on hand but I think w can safely say that from model year 2001 through 2006 the total number of Minis sold is probably no more than 245,000 (assuming they sold 45,000 every year, which they certainly did not). Model years 2007-2013 cumulatively sold a lot more. Again I don't have sales for every year at hand, but in 2010 Mini USA sold 45,600, in 2011 sold 57,500, and in 2012 sold 66,100.

There are, in short, simply a lot more Gen2 Minis on the road than Gen1s.

What's telling is confirmation bias. You have an opinion and look preferentially for evidence that backs it up.

 

EDITED APRIL 7 2017

2014 Countryman S all4, 81k miles
-----
80k Thermostat


2011 Clubman S MT 32,800 miles
-----
4,967 Electric water pump recall
10,970 Oil solenoid leak, installed repair kit for oil solenoid wiring harness.
13,913 CEL coil flip top (looks like coil replaced)
18,600 miles. Oil solenoid issue fixed by dealer installation of a different wire harness. (odd). Also TSB for A/C loud noise/whirle where weight is installed on loew pressure line to compressor.
28,883 Oil solenoid and oil pressure sensor. 3 sec oil light twice 50 miles apart. Did not want to take a chance so replaced both possible parts.

 

See post above, consolidated these two...

 

My 2011 MCS is still hanging strong at almost 65k miles. I go through just about zero oil between 5k oil changes. I am noticing a slight haze of oil on my valve cover, mostly on the driver's side. Nothing wet or dripping. Keeping an eye on that, for sure. At my current rate of driving, I will be at about 160k miles when she is paid off. I don't sell my cars often, so looking forward to 200k plus out of this little rocket. My biggest issue is tire wear. LOL. I get around 9-11k per set of 4, rotated when necessary. Maybe I should lay off the throttle a bit? Nah! Not gonna happen! Motoring On!

 

2012 Cooper S convertable no issues other than regular oil changes just turned 50,000

 

I have a 2013 with 58k on 8t, just got a check engine enables light saying goes pending misfire on all 4 cylinders. Anybody else have this problem?

 

2011, bought used with about 30k miles a year ago.
I'm closing in on 100k miles now

thermostat - diy before 40k miles
coils (2) and plugs - diy around 50k miles
hpfp - dealer and reimbursed under extended warranty around 60k miles
couple of oil leaks along the way - fixed at dealer
valve cover (pcv valve noise) - dealer
oil changes usually once a month at dealership ~5k miles

it's had manic stage 2 tune on with necessary bolt ons since about 65k miles