HELP!!! Control arm stuck to ball joint!
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 6
From: Forest Hills, NY
generally speaking, is it easier to remove the inner ball joint connection first than the outer since you have the pressure of the spring and weight of the wheel carrier on the outer?
I am doing my LCA bushings next week using the MINI press tool from ebay and putting in Power flex.
I am doing my LCA bushings next week using the MINI press tool from ebay and putting in Power flex.
Neutral
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
There are a ton of threads and youtube videos on separating the inner and outer ball joints. I've read/watched most of them, to get ideas on how to pop the ball joints. Most folks recommend using a large pickle fork on the inners. Uhh... pass... I don't want to tear the boots, as I'm not planning on replacing the joints (just need the LCAs out to replace the bushings w/ Powerflex).
I haven't seen any mention of what finally worked for me: thread a 3 ft steel stake ($5 at Lowes) from above, and hit it hard with an 8lb maul ($35 at Lowes).
First, I dulled the pointy end a bit, by hitting it with the maul.
For the outers, I turned the wheel and threaded the stake next to the brake calipers, with the stake's pointy end resting in the LCA's indentation, right next to the ball joint pin. The stake extended up and a little away from the car... 4-5 hits and the outers separated.
The passenger inner was similar, except I used the stake's flat part against the LCA, right next to the inner ball joint. The stake thread up next to the oil filter, into the engine compartment.... 6-7 hits on the stake pointy end and the joint separated. (The driver inner actually separated itself when I popped the driver outer... go figure...)
The whole thing was a PITA, because I tried a dozen different methods before figuring out the stake thing. Wish I started with that ;-)
I haven't seen any mention of what finally worked for me: thread a 3 ft steel stake ($5 at Lowes) from above, and hit it hard with an 8lb maul ($35 at Lowes).
First, I dulled the pointy end a bit, by hitting it with the maul.
For the outers, I turned the wheel and threaded the stake next to the brake calipers, with the stake's pointy end resting in the LCA's indentation, right next to the ball joint pin. The stake extended up and a little away from the car... 4-5 hits and the outers separated.
The passenger inner was similar, except I used the stake's flat part against the LCA, right next to the inner ball joint. The stake thread up next to the oil filter, into the engine compartment.... 6-7 hits on the stake pointy end and the joint separated. (The driver inner actually separated itself when I popped the driver outer... go figure...)
The whole thing was a PITA, because I tried a dozen different methods before figuring out the stake thing. Wish I started with that ;-)
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 766
Likes: 80
From: Texas
There are a ton of threads and youtube videos on separating the inner and outer ball joints. I've read/watched most of them, to get ideas on how to pop the ball joints. Most folks recommend using a large pickle fork on the inners. Uhh... pass... I don't want to tear the boots, as I'm not planning on replacing the joints (just need the LCAs out to replace the bushings w/ Powerflex).
I haven't seen any mention of what finally worked for me: thread a 3 ft steel stake ($5 at Lowes) from above, and hit it hard with an 8lb maul ($35 at Lowes).
First, I dulled the pointy end a bit, by hitting it with the maul.
For the outers, I turned the wheel and threaded the stake next to the brake calipers, with the stake's pointy end resting in the LCA's indentation, right next to the ball joint pin. The stake extended up and a little away from the car... 4-5 hits and the outers separated.
The passenger inner was similar, except I used the stake's flat part against the LCA, right next to the inner ball joint. The stake thread up next to the oil filter, into the engine compartment.... 6-7 hits on the stake pointy end and the joint separated. (The driver inner actually separated itself when I popped the driver outer... go figure...)
The whole thing was a PITA, because I tried a dozen different methods before figuring out the stake thing. Wish I started with that ;-)
I haven't seen any mention of what finally worked for me: thread a 3 ft steel stake ($5 at Lowes) from above, and hit it hard with an 8lb maul ($35 at Lowes).
First, I dulled the pointy end a bit, by hitting it with the maul.
For the outers, I turned the wheel and threaded the stake next to the brake calipers, with the stake's pointy end resting in the LCA's indentation, right next to the ball joint pin. The stake extended up and a little away from the car... 4-5 hits and the outers separated.
The passenger inner was similar, except I used the stake's flat part against the LCA, right next to the inner ball joint. The stake thread up next to the oil filter, into the engine compartment.... 6-7 hits on the stake pointy end and the joint separated. (The driver inner actually separated itself when I popped the driver outer... go figure...)
The whole thing was a PITA, because I tried a dozen different methods before figuring out the stake thing. Wish I started with that ;-)
Neutral
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I
Congrats man I feel your pain I'm still having the same problem I cut the ball joint off over top of the control arm and went ahead and pressed the new ball joints in because I had to get the tool back so I could get my money back now I'm stuck with the bottom of the ball joint in the control arm I've tried everything cannot get it out
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 317
With the subframe out I beat on the top (shaft) of the ball joint. It eventually popped free but I had to saw off the tip of the ball joint shaft. It was mushroomed.
Maybe keep the bolt on the shaft to keep it from mushrooming?
plan on new joint and hardware…
Maybe keep the bolt on the shaft to keep it from mushrooming?
plan on new joint and hardware…
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 205
Likes: 27
You beat the TOP ball? wouldnt that push it into the tapered shaft even more??
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