I have been having an issue with my car, where the engine stalls when I press in the clutch. With time i found that if I drive the car for say 5 or 10 minutes, shut the car off, then restart it. that problem goes away. When the car is acting up, I will press down the clutch and the tach needle will bounce between 1200 and lower and back up and if it bounces too low, the engine will turn off. The engine will then restart if I hold the gas pedal down for a few seconds while still in motion. Anyway, through research I came to the conclusion that this stalling problem might have something to do with a bad camshaft position sensor.

I bought a new camshaft position sensor and installed it but that did nothing. So I have a few questions before I write off the camshaft being the issue. It seems as though there are two camshaft position sensors? I can not find this information discussed anywhere. I only figured it out when I went to buy a new one, looking at the camshaft and finding there was one in the right upper part on top of the engine, then another in the right lower part. I have a 2007 mini cooper base model.

Now I changed the upper one and saw no improvement to the problem. Since I only had one replacement, I then put the old upper CPS back and installed the new one in the lower position. Still no improvement. Would I only see improvement if I changed both?

What else would cause stalling in this way? I’ve had codes for thermostat open, camshaft position sensor and cylinder 4 misfire. The thermostat housing is leaking so I know what that code is for. The CPS doesn’t seem to be the problem so I am left with a misfire but that code doesn’t show up nearly as much as the camshaft code. I mean it goes away when I shut the car on and off after the car has warmed up so I have to assume it is an electrical/sensor issue rather than a mechanical issue. Since restarting the car, seems to reset something or get something on the right track.

 

What are the actual codes? You will need to check your plugs and coil on cylinder #4 to help narrow that part down. Change the 2nd cam sensor and see if that does it. You will also need to reset the computer. Then you can see what comes back.

 

I'll have to find out what the actual codes are. The errors were explained to me without the number by my mechanic.

I did switch both sensors, one at a time though since I only have one new cam sensor. And no change for either spot.

I will also have to check the plugs and maybe change that coil then. I had others tell me it couldn't be plugs or coil for this problem but I think I need to try it.

How do I reset the computer? I don't have a diagnostic tool, not sure if they do it. I unhooked the negative cable from the battery to 'reset', is that no good?

 

A lot of time they have to be done together.

Not true. It can definately be this. Try moving the plugs and coils around and see if it follows the cylinder. That will eliminate them.

You have to have the tool 99% of the time or the codes won't go away.
Get one of these as most of us use it. http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugeii/
It will read and erase codes as well as many other things. Check it out.

 

Braminator, thank you for your help. I ordered a scanner and I am going to address all of these problems at once and see where I am at.

 

okay here's and update and some more questions

I changed both camshaft position sensors, changed all 4 spark plugs and replaced the thermostat housing unit. I hooked up the scanner and cleared codes but I am still having the stalling issue and still coming up with a CEL and p0012 code - Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1.

I am also getting a sort of stuttering or skipping when coming off a stop from gears 1 and/or 2. The car does the stalling thingwhen the engine has cooled down but if I drive it for a bit, turn it off and turn it back on, it will no longer stall or the needle won't bounce around 250 -1000 rpms at idle.

I've been reading about these timing chain and chain tensioner issues. They seem to be more common with the MCS. I have an MC but it has almost 140,000 miles on it. The tensioner seems to be an easy fix. Could I just change that? Would that do anything? I have read in another thread that you need the camshaft locking tool to change the tensioner so timing doesn't get messed up but it seems like a lot of people aren't doing that, they are just changing the tensioner. Can you change the tensioner without locking the camshafts?

Does the issue with the tensioner/timing chain or even solenoid valve seem like something that could be giving me that code and causing my engine issues?

 

This is not good. We've seen this fault a few times. And the causes have been bad cam sensors, bad vanos solenoids, stretched timing chain, worn out camshafts, or just the timing slipped.

So I usually start by resetting the timing and that's what you should do, but will need the special tools to do it. Throwing parts at it will only get more expensive.

 

Thanks for the response. I am just going to park this guy for a while and purchase a new used car because I need something immediately and reliable for my long daily commute and then eventually take my mini to the dealer to get a real diagnosis.

 

I got the same code the other day, just read it, and cleared it. If it hasn't come back, does that mean its resolved itself, or i should still get it looked at? (08 non turbo hardtop)

 

Vanos Solenoid Exhaust Movement fault. You more then likely will have to replace it as you've attempted to clear the fault, and while i'm under the impression you have no way of personally reseting your adaptations (after clearing fault) or function testing the solenoid you will have to assume it is damaged. You could pull it out and attempt to clean it, but honestly i've seen mixed results with this.

Question, did you recently operate your vehicle (for and extended period of time) with low oil levels? Are your current engine oil levels proper? Your symptoms of stalling @ idle or rough running @ idle operation or stalling is usually due to low engine oil levels and the Vanos Solenoid (which operates on oil pressure) not able to control camshaft movement properly. This is a common occurrence for the n12 when operated @ low engine oil levels. sad thing is, many cooper n12 owners don't even know they are driving on little to no oil in the system due to no oil level sensor (in any cooper model). Seen a few ruined n12,14,16 and even 18's due to poor maintenance or owners lack of regular inspection of oil levels.

 

oil was a little bit low(about 1/2 stick), actually. No drips or extra smoke that i've seen lately. will keep a sharp eye on it.

 

it never stalled or acted stall-ish, i did have cheap off brand premium in it when the light popped. Chevron in it now with a bottle of lucas-oil fuel treatment, i do feel that difference for sure. Oil level is fine now that i added some. Will watch it,a nd stay away from the cheap gas, $$ savings just aren't worth the MPG drop.

 

code just popped for the 3rd time since last march. probably going to dealer this time.

 

Any advice for those of us that have the same problem?

 

i had my dealer check the Vanos Solenoid and thats what was replaced in the end. code has since stayed away.

 

Does anyone know where the camshaft sensor is on a R56, i see the one on the valve cover, but where is the other one?? Please send a post a picture or send me a picture...