Found this at a specialty tool supplier. It's sold as a BMW oil filter socket. It is 36 mm, 3/8" drive. Great for a torque wrench and clearance as it's shallow. Some guys have cut down deep well 36 mm sockets which is no fun and they are usually 1/2". Okay it's spendy at $30 but it pays for itself if your doing your own oil changes.

The catalog supplier is Assenmacher Specialty Tools, Inc.

Socket

The distributer I ordered from is:
Pendergrass Tool Specialist
Somis, Ca
800-926-1847 Part number H 2169-2

 

Thanks for the link!

I found one at Sears, and yeah its a lot less $, but it is 1/2" and I haven't tried it for clearance yet...its not as shallow as the one pictured...I did get a flex adaptor...

I have to look at what I paid and how that works, cause cheaper isn't always better--especially with tools!

 

>>Thanks for the link!
>>
>>I found one at Sears, and yeah its a lot less $, but it is 1/2" and I haven't tried it for clearance yet...its not as shallow as the one pictured...I did get a flex adaptor...
>>
>>I have to look at what I paid and how that works, cause cheaper isn't always better--especially with tools!
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The German Hazet brand socket is also available through Mercedes dealers. Cost $29.95. But I bought a 1/2" x 36mm Sears socket for $5.99, and there's enough clearance to work the canister nut. Home Depot sells the Husky 36 mm socket for about the same price. Although the Sears socket is a 12 point socket and not the preferable hex head socket, it shouldn't chew the canister nut because you don't have to torque it too much after hand tightening.

The Hazet socket can also be bought through http://www.samstag.com (if they still have them in stock)


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<P><img src="https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t;</img>
Don't hassle me. I'm driving as fast as I possibly can</P[URL=null]null[/URL

 

I bought mine from samstagsales.com

It was listed as a Klann BMW Mini Oil Filter Wrench KL-0122-5

Price was $24.00 + shipping $3.85

 

sears 1/2 drive works great for me

 

Okay, I have a question...try not to laugh. I just got my mini, it has just turned over 1,000 miles and one of the posts suggested changing the oil at 1,000 miles or so just to be sure there were no tiny burrs of metal floating around in it from the factory. This made sense to me, so I would like to change my oil in the next couple of weeks. Now for my questions:
I've never changed the oil in a car before, but I want to learn how to (do I need to mention I'm a female?). Do I need ramps to do this, the mini looks pretty low to the ground? I am copying the info about the socket part and I know I will have to order the oil filter, ring, and synthetic oil. I aksed in an Auto Zone and they have the oil filter and ring in stock, but will it be generic and should I order one online of from my dealter (dealer is 3 hours away)? Is there anything else? My husband has an old MG and he always changes his own oil, but it being a new car how tough will it be even with his guidance? Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
kirk

 

I changed mine at 1,250 at the break in point. Engines now are built with such tolerances and quality control that it is really not necessary. Yet this is my first and probably only new car I will ever purchase, so I am trying to do everything I can to make its best.

The oil plug is in a location that does not even require jacking up the car. Although I cannot fit the pan underneath it without jacking it up. The hardest thing about changing the oil on the MINI is gettting the oil filter cap to thread back on. It feels like you are cross-threading it, and probably are the first time.

Also a 1/2" ratchet with an atriculating head will make the clearance in the engine compartment a breeze. I think I paid less than $40 for the ratchet and socket at sears.

 

Are there any other special procedures in changing the Mini Cooper S oil and filter.
Im about to do it. What size wrench is needed for the oil pan?

 

one last question where is the oil drain plug. Is it the one centered on the bottom of the engine facing the rear of the vehicle?

 

Check out: Features, RSpeed "How-tos" link on this site. 13mm plug and yes back center of crankcase. Read the proceedure before you start.

 

Any pros and cons on using a Moss MINI drain plug that has a valve? You just twist it open to relase the valve? Seems like a great idea, but haven't heard any discussion on it.

http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=38633

Or how about those pumps that look like an oil can with a bicycle pump attached to it. Supposedly you feed the tube through the engine oil opening (where you add oil), and it sucks the oil right out? Can't find a link for that right now, but I saw it somewhere.

 

>Or how about those pumps...

I'd stay away from those as the suction line inserted through the dipstick tube must reach the exact bottom of the crankcase. If it doesn't it will leave old oil remaining defeating the effort. The drain valve sounds fast and easy though.

Some claim they drain with a shallow catch pan without ramping the car. The Moss valve makes that way cool. Plus no leaking drain plug gaskets or torque concerns. Hmmm, seems I've talked myself into one.

 

Thanks for the advice. Looks like the valve is the way to go for me too!

 

>>sears 1/2 drive works great for me

Same here. No issues with clearance or anything.

 

You really ought to look at the FRAM -SD2.

Has lots of advantages, works as advertised and costs less.