HELP!...Turbo Oil Feed line is leaking!
#101
05-08-2013, 08:11 AM
Give it a try and see if it works. I don't recall the sensor disconnecting on the back end of it and I really didn't consider tracing the wiring all the way back to the original point of connection and disconnecting it there. In my opinion, unscrewing the sensor, with the proper tool, would be easier than unclipping the wiring harness and having to snake it back around the engine compartment when you're putting it back together. Advance Auto had loaner O2 sensor sockets available.
#102
05-13-2013, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Westminster, MD
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I got the kit from Detroit tuned and much to my surprise, when I opened it up, the first thing I pulled out was a pint glass w/ their logo on it along with a key chain sticker and a business card. Top notch group of guys, the new lines fit great and the directions were clear and complete. I can't say enough good things about them.
As for the 02 sensor I was able to disconnect both and pull the plug through the hole in the heat shield with a littler persuasion. The top mounted sensor connector is located in that bracket on the left hand side right below the dip stick on the 08 clubman. The bottom sensor plug is up under the turbo but relatively accessable once you drop the bottom heat shield. It may not of saved a whole lot of time but it was one less thing to do and it didn't cost me anytime in reassembly. IMHO you should really disconnect the sensor before unscrewing it from the down pipe to prevent over twisting of the wires.
As for the 02 sensor I was able to disconnect both and pull the plug through the hole in the heat shield with a littler persuasion. The top mounted sensor connector is located in that bracket on the left hand side right below the dip stick on the 08 clubman. The bottom sensor plug is up under the turbo but relatively accessable once you drop the bottom heat shield. It may not of saved a whole lot of time but it was one less thing to do and it didn't cost me anytime in reassembly. IMHO you should really disconnect the sensor before unscrewing it from the down pipe to prevent over twisting of the wires.
#103
10-01-2013, 11:54 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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I had this happen. First it was the smell then my car started smoking in the grocery store parking lot. When i took it to Mini it was the turbo lines. I guess this is such a common occurance they had the parts there to do the job right then. It was a 6 hour job and cost about $1200! They wanted to change the oil in the car but was going to charge me to put in a new filter because to Mini thats an oil change which isnt needed for the job. I told them for $1200 they should give me the filter for free. When i checked my bill they did.
#104
10-30-2013, 02:30 PM
Mine started smoking and dealer told me I need to change:
-turbo lines
-oil filter housing gasket
-timing chain tensioner seal
-oil pan gasket
-valve cover gasket
with $1600 quote from Patrck MINI, IL.
are these all necessary?
or should I go get DT oil line kit and have it changed at local autoshop first to see it fixes?
-turbo lines
-oil filter housing gasket
-timing chain tensioner seal
-oil pan gasket
-valve cover gasket
with $1600 quote from Patrck MINI, IL.
are these all necessary?
or should I go get DT oil line kit and have it changed at local autoshop first to see it fixes?
#105
10-30-2013, 02:58 PM
Tillada,
I changed my own oil filter housing gasket and turbo lines, it is a minimum 4 hour job. To me, that means about $600/700 at the dealer, with parts. My dealer quoted me $550 with parts for the oil filter housing leak.
The valve cover gaskets are about $40, and it would take about an hour to change them, or another $150 at the dealer.
I paid $125 to the dealer to change the timing chain tensioner seal.
The oil pan gasket is actually silicone sealant, I did this when I did the turbo oil lines.
What I learned:
1. Oil leak on the passenger side of the car was the timing chain tensioner. Seal changed, leak fixed.
2. Oil leak on the driver side of the motor (dripping down on the exhaust and trans bellhousing: Valve cover helped. Oil pan did not. Oil filter housing/oil cooler gaskets fixed the leak.
It is a lot of work to get to the oil filter housing gaskets (I did a how-to in the modifications section), including pulling the downpipe.
The smell of burning oil did not go away until I changed the oil filter housing gasket.
$1600 sounds a bit high, but not outrageous. I would question if you really need the oil pan removed. The oil pan can be removed at a later date with minimal additional cost (you don't save money by doing that work at the same time as the other jobs.
Have fun,
Mike
I changed my own oil filter housing gasket and turbo lines, it is a minimum 4 hour job. To me, that means about $600/700 at the dealer, with parts. My dealer quoted me $550 with parts for the oil filter housing leak.
The valve cover gaskets are about $40, and it would take about an hour to change them, or another $150 at the dealer.
I paid $125 to the dealer to change the timing chain tensioner seal.
The oil pan gasket is actually silicone sealant, I did this when I did the turbo oil lines.
What I learned:
1. Oil leak on the passenger side of the car was the timing chain tensioner. Seal changed, leak fixed.
2. Oil leak on the driver side of the motor (dripping down on the exhaust and trans bellhousing: Valve cover helped. Oil pan did not. Oil filter housing/oil cooler gaskets fixed the leak.
It is a lot of work to get to the oil filter housing gaskets (I did a how-to in the modifications section), including pulling the downpipe.
The smell of burning oil did not go away until I changed the oil filter housing gasket.
$1600 sounds a bit high, but not outrageous. I would question if you really need the oil pan removed. The oil pan can be removed at a later date with minimal additional cost (you don't save money by doing that work at the same time as the other jobs.
Have fun,
Mike
#106
10-31-2013, 06:58 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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Mine started smoking and dealer told me I need to change:
-turbo lines
-oil filter housing gasket
-timing chain tensioner seal
-oil pan gasket
-valve cover gasket
with $1600 quote from Patrck MINI, IL.
are these all necessary?
or should I go get DT oil line kit and have it changed at local autoshop first to see it fixes?
-turbo lines
-oil filter housing gasket
-timing chain tensioner seal
-oil pan gasket
-valve cover gasket
with $1600 quote from Patrck MINI, IL.
are these all necessary?
or should I go get DT oil line kit and have it changed at local autoshop first to see it fixes?
#107
11-15-2013, 07:19 AM
I just got back from local mechanic and they installed DT oil line kit. but the feed line is way too much on the heat shield side. is this going to be ok?
As recommended, I got my oil line kit installed & oil filter housing gasket replaced. Thank you all. If is not ok, is it going to be easy fix?
As recommended, I got my oil line kit installed & oil filter housing gasket replaced. Thank you all. If is not ok, is it going to be easy fix?
#108
11-15-2013, 09:31 AM
I don't see an issue there. As long as it's not kinked or rubbing on anything, you're fine. If you need to move it, remove the little heat shields, loosen the large banjo bolt just a bit and move the line over. Tighten the bolt back and your done.
#109
11-27-2013, 09:46 AM
Oil leak from oil filter heat exchanger
Has anyone else chased this leak only to find out it was leaking at the oil filter heat exchanger? I started getting a drip a couple of months ago. I was warned that the turbo oil feed line would eventually fail so I assumed that was the problem. It was leaking between the heat shield and the engine block so I couldn't see the exact location of the leak. I bought the replacement line from DT and replaced it myself (not a fun job). It still leaked so my local mini mechanic sold me his version of the replacement line (he told me the DT version was a piece of ****). Replaced it again and it still leaked. When I finally saw how the oil filter housing was attached to the block (couldn't find it in the Bentley service manual) I knew this had to be where it was coming from. There is a lot of surface area to seal and only a couple of bolts holding it on (poor design in my opinion). Since this is right beside the oil feed line it is impossible to see which is leaking. At this point I threw up the red flag and paid the shop $600 to do the work. Oil leak is gone, but my wallet is a little lighter.
Hope this helps someone avoid chasing the wrong leak...
Hope this helps someone avoid chasing the wrong leak...
#110
11-27-2013, 11:41 AM
There is a registered NHTSA filling for this failure on their site. Please add your complaint with NHTSA. If enough people register a complaint and NHTSA rules in favor of MINi owners, some sort of reimbursement may come sometime in the future. The design of the crimp joint is questionable and MINI's addition of a line heat shield beginning in 2010 supports the fact that the crimp joint is weak. Please register with NHTSA.
#111
11-27-2013, 07:37 PM
Has anyone else chased this leak only to find out it was leaking at the oil filter heat exchanger? I started getting a drip a couple of months ago. I was warned that the turbo oil feed line would eventually fail so I assumed that was the problem. It was leaking between the heat shield and the engine block so I couldn't see the exact location of the leak. I bought the replacement line from DT and replaced it myself (not a fun job). It still leaked so my local mini mechanic sold me his version of the replacement line (he told me the DT version was a piece of ****). Replaced it again and it still leaked. When I finally saw how the oil filter housing was attached to the block (couldn't find it in the Bentley service manual) I knew this had to be where it was coming from. There is a lot of surface area to seal and only a couple of bolts holding it on (poor design in my opinion). Since this is right beside the oil feed line it is impossible to see which is leaking. At this point I threw up the red flag and paid the shop $600 to do the work. Oil leak is gone, but my wallet is a little lighter.
Hope this helps someone avoid chasing the wrong leak...
Hope this helps someone avoid chasing the wrong leak...
#112
11-27-2013, 08:18 PM
I've had mine replaced. Along with the return line (twice) from the turbo. Replaced the feed line with the DT line. The filter housing work was done by a shop along with the second return line repair. Everything held together for about six months. My MINI is once again leaking. Trying to hold off on taking it in for repairs, but looks to be getting pretty bad, so getting it worked on is probably in my near future.
#114
12-16-2013, 08:46 AM
My wife's '09 Clubman S has developed a burning smell also. I suspect the turbo oil feed line. Seems like two kits are offered, the Detroit Tuned supply line (http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/?productID=581), and the set of lines from Way Motor Works (http://www.waymotorworks.com/turbo-oil-line-set.html).
Both companies appear to replace the rubber o-rings with crush washers for more heat resistance. Can anyone comment on the Way Motor Works kit? Do I really need the return line as well?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Both companies appear to replace the rubber o-rings with crush washers for more heat resistance. Can anyone comment on the Way Motor Works kit? Do I really need the return line as well?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Definitely go with the Detroit Tuned line instead.
I DIY-ed this job a month or two ago. Very doable. 80% of the time is spent removing and re-installing the turbo heat shields, otherwise, very straight forward.
a
#115
12-17-2013, 11:03 AM
We offer both kits:
OEM MINI Lines
http://waymotorworks.com/turbo-oil-line-set.html
and our Stainless oil line kit
http://waymotorworks.com/wmw-stainle...-line-kit.html
OEM MINI Lines
http://waymotorworks.com/turbo-oil-line-set.html
and our Stainless oil line kit
http://waymotorworks.com/wmw-stainle...-line-kit.html
#116
01-03-2014, 06:06 AM
2nd Gear
I hadn't done much more than you have either. Fluid changes, lots of brakes and bolt on parts. Just think of this as another bolt on upgrade. You just have to unbolt A LOT of parts to bolt this one on.
Yes, all of it came out of the fitting where the stainless tube and banjo connector meet. No clogging, thank goodness. There is an o-ring under the tapered fitting that failed. I admit that when I finally saw all the oil on the engine, I though their had to be something in addition to the feed line leaking and I got a worried that I had multiple problems. I ran this all by a trusted friend of mine who is an ASE mechanic and he reminded me that the line probably contains 60 pounds of pressure when the pump is running and that much oil is absolutely possible from that one failed fitting. I trusted his advice and continued on with fixing the feed line. Turns out he was right. I'm driving around leak free after just replacing the feed line.
This must have been going on for a few weeks. The weird thing was I never saw any oil spots on my driveway. I always look for these types of signs that something might be wrong but it never happened. I saw and smelt a little smoke when I got home one evening and noticed I had a problem. I attempted to get it the dealer the next day but I only got 5 miles down the road before I though she was on fire under the bonnet because of the amount of smoke. Scary moment for sure.
And yes, the line can clog without regular oil changes. When I first got my MINI, I visited with the MINI service adviser and a tech that was hanging out in the customer area. I asked what to watch out for and what consistent problems they saw with my type of MINI and what to do to prevent problems. The first thing from both of their mouths was don't change the oil at the regular service intervals (15k miles). Change it every 7 or 8 thousand miles to avoid oil lines getting clogged and seizing the turbo.
Yes, all of it came out of the fitting where the stainless tube and banjo connector meet. No clogging, thank goodness. There is an o-ring under the tapered fitting that failed. I admit that when I finally saw all the oil on the engine, I though their had to be something in addition to the feed line leaking and I got a worried that I had multiple problems. I ran this all by a trusted friend of mine who is an ASE mechanic and he reminded me that the line probably contains 60 pounds of pressure when the pump is running and that much oil is absolutely possible from that one failed fitting. I trusted his advice and continued on with fixing the feed line. Turns out he was right. I'm driving around leak free after just replacing the feed line.
This must have been going on for a few weeks. The weird thing was I never saw any oil spots on my driveway. I always look for these types of signs that something might be wrong but it never happened. I saw and smelt a little smoke when I got home one evening and noticed I had a problem. I attempted to get it the dealer the next day but I only got 5 miles down the road before I though she was on fire under the bonnet because of the amount of smoke. Scary moment for sure.
And yes, the line can clog without regular oil changes. When I first got my MINI, I visited with the MINI service adviser and a tech that was hanging out in the customer area. I asked what to watch out for and what consistent problems they saw with my type of MINI and what to do to prevent problems. The first thing from both of their mouths was don't change the oil at the regular service intervals (15k miles). Change it every 7 or 8 thousand miles to avoid oil lines getting clogged and seizing the turbo.
The classic "spinning plate" dilemma. Fix one problem, find another.
#117
01-03-2014, 06:45 AM
It appears to be an easy replacement but this is getting ridiculous. I want to love this car but I've about had it with this crapola.
#118
01-08-2014, 08:00 AM
Tell me about it. After replacing an oil feed line, timing chain, and water pump all within a year of each other, now I suspect my high pressure fuel pump is going out. It appears to be an easy replacement but this is getting ridiculous. I want to love this car but I've about had it with this crapola.
It appears to be an easy replacement but this is getting ridiculous. I want to love this car but I've about had it with this crapola.
#119
01-08-2014, 11:06 AM
Ten? No not unless you have an extended warranty or the repair is a recall. Standard coverage on a MINI is 4 years or 50,000 miles whichever comes first. Unfortunately mine is 4 1/2 years old with only 39,000 miles and I just had my turbo oil line replaced last month and looks like this week I'll be replacing the thermostat housing or the main water pump, whichever is now leaking. Really does suck that I/we are having to dump this kind of money into these cars.
#120
01-08-2014, 11:15 AM
#121
01-08-2014, 11:21 AM
#122
01-08-2014, 11:31 AM
Platinum Sponsor
" I pulled it back apart and saw that it was actually the turbo oil return line. "
+1 on checking the oil return line. When I replaced the both lines , on installation I first pushed up on the oil return line ( flange side) into the bottom of the turbo and with the o-ring its a tight fit. I pushed it again and the flange sat flush on the bottom of the turbo housing, an aligned to the little bolt hole. Then tighten up the little bolt. Might help someone in the future as a little trick. Then clipped on the bottom hose to the oil filter housing.
Turbo Oil Return Pipe Part # 11657583838
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657583838/
&
Turbo Oil Pipe Line - Supply
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/
Which is also in a Kit:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/
07119963151 x 4 for the gasket
07119905176 x 2 for the banjo bolt.
---------------------------------------------------
izzle22 - There is a thread here for the what is needed to check for the thermostat housing and cooling side to the engine. Then there is a link in the thread for the thermostat housing DIY.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
Thanks
+1 on checking the oil return line. When I replaced the both lines , on installation I first pushed up on the oil return line ( flange side) into the bottom of the turbo and with the o-ring its a tight fit. I pushed it again and the flange sat flush on the bottom of the turbo housing, an aligned to the little bolt hole. Then tighten up the little bolt. Might help someone in the future as a little trick. Then clipped on the bottom hose to the oil filter housing.
Turbo Oil Return Pipe Part # 11657583838
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657583838/
&
Turbo Oil Pipe Line - Supply
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/
Which is also in a Kit:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657534454/
07119963151 x 4 for the gasket
07119905176 x 2 for the banjo bolt.
---------------------------------------------------
izzle22 - There is a thread here for the what is needed to check for the thermostat housing and cooling side to the engine. Then there is a link in the thread for the thermostat housing DIY.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
Thanks
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 05-23-2016 at 08:46 AM.
#123
01-08-2014, 11:32 AM
Ahhhh. Okay. Well I guess that's something I can count on getting taken care of when that goes. Because I'm sure it will.
#124
01-08-2014, 11:44 AM
I feel your pain on repairs. I was told my Turbo line banjo bolt cover/shield was in so I went in to have it done and surprise - surprise, my turbo line was leaking at the banjo bolt. I was originally quoted $975 to have it replaced/repaired and decided to wait on the repair. I got a call a few days later and with my loyalty discount the job was going to be $700 and they would also fix a timing cover leak as well.
Last edited by CA94960; 01-08-2014 at 12:57 PM.
#125
01-13-2014, 07:43 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Jul 2012
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DIY oil line replacement vs. Thermostat housing replacement... Which is more of a PITA? I just replaced my t-stat housing 2 weeks ago myself... And now found this dreaded turbo oil feed line leak. I just need a little encouragement as BMW/MINI has me so fricken angry with these POS parts they chose to use.
If i do choose to do it myself, I will go with the DT line replacement or the full kit incl. the return pipe. Thanks for all the previous posts in the this thread!
If i do choose to do it myself, I will go with the DT line replacement or the full kit incl. the return pipe. Thanks for all the previous posts in the this thread!