Loss of power?
Loss of power?
Ok guys, I've been lurking on this forum for a while, but this is I believe my first post. We've had our '08 mini S for a while now and so far it's treated us fair outside of a few problems covered by warranty. That is until now. About 2-3 weeks ago the check engine light came on and was on for about 2 days and then went off. While it was on there was no noticeable changes in the cars behavior. A few days later the light came back on and it's been like this ever since 2-3 days on 1/2 to 1 day off, but recently there has been a very noticeable change in power. It runs fine with no missing, no strange sounds and plenty of pick up, just not the same as before. It almost feels like the turbo isn't working at all. I have driven a couple of the regular minis and it feels similar to that as far as power goes. A brief history on maintenance... Bought the car used at 23k. At 24k, the shifter (AT) needed to be replaced because she would only go into 2nd gear. At 26k the timing system was replaced completely because of a bad design on original parts apparently. At 27 or 28k the computer had to be reprogrammed and the turbo was replaced. The car now has about 68k most of which are highway miles. The wife has a round trip of around 45 miles a day to work and back.
I'm sure some of you will say take it and get it scanned, but everywhere I've called charges $125+ just to scan the car, so we have yet to do so. I am very capable of doing most mechanical jobs as long as no special tools are needed, I just don't know where to begin. Any help or opinion are greatly appreciated.
Isiah
I'm sure some of you will say take it and get it scanned, but everywhere I've called charges $125+ just to scan the car, so we have yet to do so. I am very capable of doing most mechanical jobs as long as no special tools are needed, I just don't know where to begin. Any help or opinion are greatly appreciated.
Isiah
Without the code, you will be guessing as to what is wrong. Autozone generally will scan it for you for free and if you can't get to one maybe you should simply buy a scanner of your own as they aren't that expensive now.
There's a very good reason for that. It might be worth at least getting a generic code reader so you can take slightly-less-blind guesses at the problem. If you are going to keep the car long-term and do your own work, it might be worthwhile to invest in your own "real" scanner that accesses more than just generic codes.

NO but really you should just get a scanner. I have a $40 code reader/scanner and have used it on many cars. A good tool to have.
Is there a particular brand I should get? I was looking at the equus 3030. I need to read codes in my jeep liberty as well.
Last edited by 56_oval; Aug 27, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
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Went out and bought the Innova 3030. That's what i see on a few sites for mini's. I gotta wait for the wife to get home to ck it though. I let you guys know asap. And thanks for your help so far as well.
I thought it was a loose hose, but now it appears to just be a breather hose for the transmission. I was really hoping I had stumbled on to something.
I'm at a loss at the moment. If you guys know what I should ck with these codes, I'm all ears. Tomorrow when theres better light, I'll ck the vacuum hoses better.
I'm at a loss at the moment. If you guys know what I should ck with these codes, I'm all ears. Tomorrow when theres better light, I'll ck the vacuum hoses better.
Mini's can be difficult to work on and expensive. And if you are not a skilled mechanic you can chase your tail for quite a while before finding the problem. It's probably not a good thing to have your wife driving the car 45 miles to work each day. A large tow bill and having your wife stranded is not good. (Maybe she is driving something else.)
It could be something simple or something more sinister. Anyway I guess my point is that it may be wiser to spend the money, if you can swing it, and have the car professionally looked at especially if you depend on the vehicle to get to and from work.
It could be something simple or something more sinister. Anyway I guess my point is that it may be wiser to spend the money, if you can swing it, and have the car professionally looked at especially if you depend on the vehicle to get to and from work.
Well, the P1497 is some type of pressure leak. Check the valve cover carefully to ensure there are no leaks (PVC as well). The other code indicates a boost leak... Anything been done to this car or is it stock?
Are Mini codes different? I am finding on this site that the second code is stating something about bank 1 being too lean at idle? It would make sense if it were a boost problem considering my symptoms though.
The codes you can read with the generic reader you have are generic ones. Evidently the BMW tool (also for MINIs) will give you more detail. It may be able to pull more codes? Not sure on that.
A 56 Oval? Cool car.
A 56 Oval? Cool car.
I'll do that this evening and get back with you guys.
Codes may have been forcing the car into limp mode to protect the engine. Hopefully it was a glitch and they don't return.
Let's hope so. I was actually a mechanic for a while, but on vintage VWs and I am starting a shop with a friend for vintage mOtorcycles and scooters, but this whole on board diag thing is weird. I just don't see the purpose in all the electronics. Give me something with a carburetor and I have no problems.
What the ECU is seeing is some sort of leak that's past the intake manifold.
Now, if you've checked the entire boost pipe system for leaks, and completed a smoke test with no result, it's something internal.
What that translates to is a common crack / leak in the valve cover or integrated PCV system in the valve cover.
* MINI DTC P2178 (0x2746 or 0x274E or 0x2BC1) - Fuel Trim Limit Exceeded: System Too Rich
The ECU is seeing too rich of fuel mixture and it's trying to pull back on fueling.
If you haven't remedied any of the problems, those codes will most likely return.
It's extremely rare to have fault codes to "randomly" pop-up without a cause.
- Erik



