Anybody having problems with their rear deck lid latch not functioning? Knauz in Lake Bluff, Illinois indicated that they had several owners report that the electrical latch system sometimes overheated and would not function, especially after repeated use. However, a few minutes wait was usually sufficient for it to resume operation. Not so in my case, as the bungee cords now in use will attest. Any suggestions? Solutions?Fritzbader@aol.com

 

Yep, visit your dealer.. they should have a fix for all your rear latch problems...

Rocketboy_X

 

Yep, these boot latches are indeed coming defective from factory. Mine suddenly died last Sunday just after 5 weeks of having taken delivery. The hatch would not shut at all and no amount of fiddling with the keyfob remote and hatch handle rubber pad were able to revive the latch (The latch mechanism would make a faint sound but no clicks). I had to bungee cord the hatch and then head to the dealer early the next morning.

When I described the problem to the service advisor, he knew right away what was going on, and proceeded to right up the service ticket on the spot. Fortunately the Friday before he had received a fresh shipment of replacement latches, so they were able to replace it in just about 35 minutes and send me on my way. It seems to be a fairly simple repair but it does indeed causes major headaches. Now my boot is shutting properly (And smoother than ever before) and a slight knocking noise that I was hearing from the latch area while driving over small bumps, also dissapeared with the new replacement part. We'll see how long this one will last. At least, I am not using the "5 second" press and hold keyfob boot release. I will have the dealer next time reprogram this button for "Comfort Opening".

My service advisor also told me that he was expecting other 3 MINIs that same day for the same exact problem with the boot latch.

This creates a huge inconvenience to those owners that either live very far from a MINI dealer or need to wait for the replacement part to come in (Car is basically left open from the back = easy theft or vandalism).

I still contend that this is one of the most embarrasing quality control glitches in these cars and BMW needs to issue a permanent fix as soon as possible.

Imagine if this happens to you (Can't either open or close the boot) in the middle of nowhere while on a roadtrip vacation?? This alone can spoil your entire holiday!.

Moral of the story: Carry a small bungee cargo cord in the trunk, just in case.

My repair ticket says that the Boot latch "Bolt" was found broken. Corrective action: replace both, the bolt and latch with new part under warranty.

BMW knows this part is DEFECTIVE.

 

I don't understand why they don't have a mechanical release for the hatch inside of the car. Also, I would like to be able to open it with the key (stick my key in, turn, open). Perhaps they will have these features in future models?

 

I think the whole boot release mechanism is poorly designed. In their intent to make a "Sophisticated" way to open the rear hatch, instead, they created a very frustrating method to do so and in conjuction with poor conception and faulty parts it just makes it even worse.

Here is what BMW needs to do to correct these rear hatch problems (And offer such solution as both a retrofit for existing cars and in the assembly line):

1) Create a 3 button keyfob remote transmitter. The 3rd button should be dedicated just to release the hatch, instead of the silly "5 second" press and hold thingy of fiddling with the open keyfob button or dash power lock toggle switch.

2) Make the electric boot latch release totally independent from the central locking system. If I open the boot, I don't want/need to unlock the doors as well.

3) Install a manual emergency boot hatch release, as it originally promised in the owner's manual.

4) Put a keylock for the hatch in the exterior and hide it under the "MINI" logo so it can be accessed when sliding it up or down. I personally don't like the electric rubber pad button release under the license plate cover.

5) Put a manual remote hatch release right next to the driver's seat and door sill in the floor. Honda/Acura could give BMW some good lessons in this area. Their manual remote hatch/trunklid releases have a separate keylock that allows you to lock the manual release from the inside to prevent theft to trunk contents.

6) Put a high quality latch mechanism with a stronger bolt and return release spring that doesn't suddenly BREAK and DIE on you.

7) Get rid of the over dependence on the electrical system to open the hatch. This is of special concern for MCS owners as their battery seats mounted in the trunk floor. Or imagine if you have a flat tire and can't get to the tools or the spare release (if you have one) because the hatch refuses to open! Not fun!.


Last but not least, opening and closing a trunk hatch door should not be a hassle!!!!

 

Sorry for those with mechanically deficient boots but I love my MINI boot hatch!!! I hope they don't change it unless they need to b/c too many are defective. But I really like the "fancy-ness"!

 

>>Sorry for those with mechanically deficient boots but I love my MINI boot hatch!!! I hope they don't change it unless they need to b/c too many are defective. But I really like the "fancy-ness"!

Greatgro:

I don't want to rain in your parade, but rest assured your boot latch will fail sooner or later. All of these latches, the bolt and return spring break prematurely. I hope your hatch doesn't get stuck or you can't close it in the middle of a rainstorm.

I like fanciness with common sense and good quality parts. Unfortunately the way this boot latch works, it leaves a lot to be desired. The boot mechanism is the only gripe I have about this otherwise extremely well engineered car.

Talk to your service dept and ask how many people are in line waiting for boot latch replacements....

 

>>Yep, these boot latches are indeed coming defective from factory. Mine suddenly died last Sunday just after 5 weeks of having taken delivery. The hatch would not shut at all and no amount of fiddling with the keyfob remote and hatch handle rubber pad were able to revive the latch (The latch mechanism would make a faint sound but no clicks). I had to bungee cord the hatch and then head to the dealer early the next morning.

Tom

 

I have had my MCS for a liitle more than two months and 2500 miles and the rear hatch latch has been my only problem . ( Latch was replaced after second visit. ) I think we have to expect that the Beta owners will have to work out a few bugs. Hopefully you have a good dealer who listens and then solves problems that may arise. I think you have to agree...Minis Kick A$$.


_________________
cb


Greta...DS "S", premium, cold, 17s on all seasons, DSC, fogs, lapis blue leather

 

Well, here is the fix that worked for me :

1. On the key, hold down the Mini button until the rear latch starts chattering with the trunk (boot) open.

2. While it is chattering, hold the normal rubber trunk opener button (above the license plate) in and slam the trunk.

Yes, this takes 2 hands -- one to hold the key button and the other to hold the the trunk's opener and slam the trunk. But it cleared the fault and the trunk is now locked.


Tom

 

>>:D A FIX FOR THE PROBLEM. Earlier tonite I posted: Well, here is the fix that worked for me :
>>
>>1. On the key, hold down the Mini button until the rear latch starts chattering with the trunk (boot) open.
>>
>>2. While it is chattering, hold the normal rubber trunk opener button (above the license plate) in and slam the trunk.
>>
>>Yes, this takes 2 hands -- one to hold the key button and the other to hold the the trunk's opener and slam the trunk. But it cleared the fault and the trunk is now locked.
>>
>>
>>Tom
>>

Yes that fix works for a little while until the latch and bolt break and finally give up (You can't either close or open the hatch at all). Trust me, this "remedy" will at some point fail once the latch mechanism goes kaput inside.

 

Is this happening with the 2003 models of the S? If so, I am going to call my dealer and ask them to replace the latch as soon as the car is off the truck! If they won't then we will be in an argument first thing. I am wondering why there is not some kind of Bulletin put out by BMW for this. Or maybe there is and we have not heard about it. I know that sometimes happens.

Let me know what you guys think. If I get agreement here, I will call the dealership on Monday and ask them to replace it as soon as it arrives.

Barb

 

MINI seems to be fixing things on the fly, so I doubt this is the case... whenever they come out with a fix for something, they seem to be good about changing the process at the factory that caused the fix...

I'd check to see if I could open the boot hatch with the remote, if that works fine, I think you should be fine...

Rocketboy_X

 

2005 Mini Cooper: I have a wierd and intermitent deck lid latch problem. Sometimes, my latch will not open after I've driven in the rain. When this occurs, I can get it to open "sometimes" if I turn on the headlights. Then again, I have had the the deck lid latch open involuntarily twice while driving in the rain with the headlights on. I suspect there is a weather-proof connector some place that is no longer weather-proof. Ever heard of this one before?

 

Hello all! I tried the fix above to get the hatch to lock & couldn't get it to work. I have an '03 MCS & am having trouble when shutting the hatch forcefully it still shows that it is not securely closed & the interior light will stay on. Of course I have slammed it so hard the car shakes...it also sometimes will not lock sometimes it will. Any ideas? Have not quite 70K on the odo. Thanks!