Hi everyone,
I am new to the group and now own a new to me used 05' MCS which is pretty much stock apart from a new K&N airfilter, and some new spark plugs. The odometer shows about 148k kms and it has the 6 spd trans. I thought it was a great deal, picked it up for a great price knowing it needed a little TLC. Recently I have started to feel a vibration through the steering wheel and now more noticable through the floor boards as well. Started out very slight at 100-110 kph which was only felt on a smooth strech of highway between home and work. Now it has become pretty much constant on all types of pavement and is coming in at 80 kph right on up to 120 at which point it is much more noticable.
Thought it may be a wheel balance issue at first but you don't drive through it and it seems to follow more around engine rmp and starting last week I now have an oil leak of some type right where the bell housing for the trans bolts to the engine. It was only a drip or two at first but after a 300km trip today it is now much worse now and I am a little concerned about driving it much further but pretty much have to as it is my only source of transportation. If I had to explain it, it feels like a ujount gone on a rear wheel drive, that type of a faster vibration.
Sorry for the winded story but just trying to explain the best I can and after looking at a number of posts I am hoping someone out there may have some thoughts, seems to be a pretty great bunch in this forum with a bit of knowledge. Any feedback appreciated.

 

hmmm... my first thought is to check the axel

 

Hi, thanks for the info. I have started with the basics and rotated the tires, vibe still there and unchanged. Found the right side inner tie rod is loose and will have that replaced shortly, will see what that does. I did find out today in replacing the thermostat that the water pump is leaking and was wondering if a loose pump shaft could cause a vibe through the engine? I will start searching for some threads on this but was wondering if anyone has changed the water pump on an 05' MCS and what's involved? I have come across some amazing how-to threads and am hoping to find one for the pump.

 

Also make sure your wheels have been properly balanced that's commonly the cause of a vibration at that kind of speed. the tie rod also seems like it could be the cause. I don't think it would be the water pump but replacing that isn't too difficult. Another thing you could check is the outer ball joints in the control arm on your front wheels. The way I check is by having the wheel on and everything bolted together while it's lifted in the air and just try to shake the wheel back and forth. If there is not movement and the wheel feels solid then they are fine but if there seems to be a little jiggling of the wheel you should look at putting new ball joints in. They aren't too expensive and are something that I have seen that break a lot. Good luck! Hope you find what is wrong

 

If you can move the wheels back and forth a little when they're up in the air,
worn front control arm bushings are a more common cause than worn ball joints,
although could certainly be either or both.

 

Well I did a bit more digging on this and found that the control arm bushing are quite loose - both sides. I will check on some replacement bushings Monday, thanks for the heads up cristo. I also had a look at the ball joints and all is well there. I initially had wondered about my water pump as it seemed to be leaking, after replacing my thermostat and putting some proper coolant in, the leak at the pump has now stopped???? I guess thats maybe what happens when the wrong coolant is used. I notice that the previous owner had just basic green coolant in and had done the thermostat before - gasket was rolled and the thermostat was not seated right. This was causing the car to run hotter as well, notice now with the new stat in and different coolant the running temp is down - good to see. Any suggestions on a good control arm bushing I can try?

 

If your gonna get control arm bushings you should look into getting the power flex ones as the oem will just eventually wear out again. Way sells them pre pressed into the brackets to make the install also less of a hassle

 

Sounds great, will look into those. Thanks for all the advice, I am hoping to start the performance side of things later this year and it looks like I have come to the right place.

 

I have a similar situation at fwy speeds if 70+mph. Wheels were balanced and it helped a bit but then rotated them and the vibrations minimalized. Recently I had powerflex lca bushings installed, does anyone know if poly lca bushing tend to cause vibrating steering wheels at high speeds? I was able to get the tire shop to agree to swapping out my front pair of wheels to see if the issue is eliminated, if not... I don't know where to go next.... Ball joints?

 

No vibration with poly front bushings in my case.

 

Update:

Front tires changed out for new ones... I'm stumped...

Someone mentioned tie rods? How can i tell they are bad?
Could be a bent rim... or maybe a rotor... but i have no pulsations

 

Could you have a bent wheel? Most of the time that I get my wheels balanced, the tech doesn't check that. Just a thought. Hope it helps.

 

Bent rim makes total sense. However...

New discovery... The large band clip that holds the cv boot to the passenger drive axle is missing and there is compact grease everywhere. I has a shop replace the boots a few months ago... I wax able to pull the entire boot back to see absolutely no grease inside the three way bearing or pivot thinga-majigger. Can't say how long it's new like this... But at least a month or so. Could this cause speed wobble? Even if if doesn't... I'm worried the axle bearings may be jacked up. :(

 

Can someone post a photo or a video of what a bad tie rod looks or feels like? mine swivel up and down but I would assume thats normal. I also have a vibration between 60-80mph and cannot solve it.

 

bump

 

This sounds like worn cv joint. replace the drive shafts. If you get cheap made in china drive shafts like I did they will only last 50K miles. But 2 years ago I did not have the money for Good drive shafts. and I get to do it again.

 

I have a set of OEM Drive axles I took of my JCW MT 06 sitting in my garage if your interested. They are in good shape and I'll even clean them up and repack them with grease for you.