I had no problems back then, I was trying to show people that the Bentley manual did mention a faulty PCV system in the valve cover could be the reason for using oil . Since then I am now seeing an slight oil consumption issue that I did not have before.
One more thing, I have a catch can and in the summer heat it is always dry, so where is the oil going? Past the rings?

 

Take a look at your turbo air inlet chamber. A puddle there could be your "blowing and sucking" CC pressure is causing oil to seep past the turbo oil seal and getting burned that way --- thru the FMIC, etc. Especially true if your driver side PCV port hose is dry at the turbo hose connection (the heater). If both are dry, and no oil leaks, it's probably going past the rings or valve stems.

 

Hello!
I would like to thank you for all your posts! So much information!

I think i have same problem on my r56.

May you help me to understand something?
Main question is why it's failing? Construction seems to be simple. One spring diaphragm and two doors, what possibly can go wrong?
Is it salvageable? Is it possible to flush PCV system with seafoam for example? If opened is it possible to put everything back together with permatex black and bring it back to life after cleaning?
Will Rear PCV pipe delete solve this issue without replacing cover?

I can't understand it. Problem comes and go.
Air sucking noise from passenger side, half of power, unstable idle, fuel trims goes from -25 to +25 and than P1497 code came up.
And next morning everything is fine.

I love all my minis but when i need to fix something on it i hate all of them.

Thank you!!!

 

Here's my massive oil consumption story;

Bought a 2008 Cooper S from a friend with 143k miles. Meticulously maintained by dealer since new, with all receipts, but burning/leaking oil with a passion. Dealer told her to get rid of car because there was no solution. I changed all leaking seals: main seal, oil cooler seals, valve cover seals, oil pan gasket, vacuum pump. Oil consumption got worse over next 7k miles despite having tamed all the oil leaks, some of which were real bad. It was to the point that I was burning 2 quarts per gas 1/2 gas tank but no blue smoke, ever. Just heavy black smoke at WOT, but I assumed that was the normal rich condition at WOT.

The valve cover had been changed by dealer some 40k miles before with a part # (11127585907) which had since been superseded twice I believe.

So I decided that after doing a compression check which showed normal values across all cylinders, that it was either the PCV/valve cover or the seals in the turbo. I checked intercoooler plumbing and it had some oil at the outlet of the intercooler but the rest was relatively dry. PCV tube was very wet with oil.

Valve cover is cheaper and easier than turbo swap, so I swapped the valve cover with the newest part # (11127646555, from ECS Tuning...cheapest place and you know you'll get the newest iteration).

Now those damn dipsticks are notoriously hard to read (I replaced the all-metal one with a red plastic unit) but after 200 miles it appears I've at least partially solved the issue. Ive drained and measured crankcase oil volume and matched against dipstick reading, so I think I know how to read that lil bastard properly.

The new part and old part look exactly the same, but that doesn't mean they are. So either the new unit is better or the old unit was failing after 50k miles or both.

I also changed the PCV tube with a VAICO unit but the original wasnt clogged or cracked. I did it for peice of mind. Its an easy job.

I knew something had changed immediately upon installing the new valve cover because I was not getting black smoke (rich condition) at WOT anymore.

Here are some side by sides of old and latest (sorry about poor quality):

 

Thanks for the order lex and nice write-up and explanation. I really like your comparison and pictures. One of the biggest contributors to oil burn off I believe is that valve cover old design and fail PCV and coupled with maybe the turbo/cylinder blow-by to an extent which happens in some turbo engines. The older design dip stick (circa 2007) and hard to read dipstick does not help things.

Thanks for going with the Vaico inlet tube and glad to see it working for you. Those neck by the inlet can crack out and slip off over time like my 2007 did. Whenever you can save money here and there helps.

 

Can you explain why that disposable, red-handled plug is included and Why don't they just pre-install the little plug/valve that comes in the bag? Does the plug vary by application?

Seems like a waste of time and money to have the re handled plug there just to have it be thrown in trash.

 

I Scotchbrited the plastic part of the dip stick real good, then degreased it , and it reads pretty good now.

 

Yes,

I posted this in another thread I believe but what it is since its shared with Citroen and PSA they have different plug setups dependant on the engine in Europe or south America. US cars insert that particular plug. They make the same valve cover then attach different plugs or adapters per the manufacturer to the Make. What's funny is its looks like the old MINI "pull to inflate tow hook" days of the gen 1 MINI.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lve-cover.html

&

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-2.html









Its like they knew MINI owners like the front and rear tow hook set up.

 

The metal ringed dipstick? I swapped mine for a red plastic one. Much easier to read, but what I've learned is you need to ignore the splotches and looks for a contiguous heavy ring of oil around the dipstick. I was under filling the crankcase for a long time before I realized that.

 

That's what I assumed. I guess the red handle screams, PULL ME OUT.

 

Yep,

The metal spring one.

I still have it and its going into the MINI parts museum which I have.

One day it will be like American Pickers MINI edition.

 

Oh lord that's the FIRST part I got rid of when I bought the car. That dipstick was worthless. With new oil it was impossible for me to read.

 

Checking in again a year later. Has anyone done the PCV delete and noticed a reduction in oil consumption? Working on a 2008 R55 with N14 engine, 110k miles, that runs great, no rough idle, but that consumes a 2 quarts/litres of oil every 700k miles.

 

Howdy partner, i have the same issue with the N14, only i consume 1L per 1000km and still havent found a solution to it!

 

Did ya read the posts above? Its your PCV / valve cover. Im on my 3rd one at 151k miles. Mine was gulping oil at that same pace. I changed the FREAKING $300!!! valve cover (F.U. BMW!) and its back to a more reasonable consumption rate.

 

Right after you changed it, what was the consumption like?

 

Read man READ. Post 54.

 

There is any solution instead to change the valve cover to use a oil catch without the return pipe? Then close the pipe after the throttle body and also the pipe in the intake before the turbo? In other turbo cars I did it, but I don't know about the mini because the cover is little articulate. I really don't want but a 300$ cover for a stupid valve! Usually I spend those money for turbo or rebuild engines!

 

ya well, welcome to Mini / Peugeot engineering. There is no solution other than new valve cover. Im on my third.

 

yay, I bought one yesterday, but when i will have it i want work for do something in the old one, also to fill the original holes and make two extra aux in/exit and use a external valve to work like the one inside the oem cover.

 

 

How many miles on car and that valve cover?

 

Hey guys, I own a fjcw for about a year, the car has 115k km on the clock and I it’s using about 1litre per 1000km. There is a small leakage around the valve cover, and a bit of blue smoke coming from the exhaust from time to time.
-How should I know if my valve cover needs to be changed?

 

FJCW? I dont know what that is.

That's way too much oil. Are you sure you looked for all possible leaks? Main seal, oil pan, vacuum pump, turbo oil cooler lines, oil cooler and valve cover? Is the corrugated plastic tube from the back passenger-side of the valve cover which goes under the intake manifold and then into the intake in good shape? Not collapsed?

If all those are ok, and compression and leak-down test give good results, and assuming the turbo's seals arent leaking oil into the combustion chamber, you then definitely need a valve cover/PCV system.

At 115k miles I would just change it anyway if you have no leaks. Unless you can do a compression and leak down test yourself and know for sure its not bad valve of piston seals. (I posted instructions on how to do so in the forums.), its more than likely a bad PCV system/valve cover. $330 plus RTV and your labor. Its easy to swap.

Most turbos are dead by 120-140k miles so could be those turbo seals too.

 

Fjcw(factory jcw)is a jcw not a cooper s with tunning kit. 😃
I’ve inspected my engine bay and there seems to be no oil leaks except the one near the valve cover which is very very small. I will do the compression and leak down test for sure tho.
I am wondering whether or not to change my timing chain if I am doing the valve cover. There is no knocking or sounds from it, but isn’t it about time for it?