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turbo oil feed line access from bottom?

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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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turbo oil feed line access from bottom?

Hi,

I need to change the turbo oil feed line for 2008 clubman S (~70500). Does anybody know how to access lower banjo bolt to engine without putting a car in service mode (removing front bumper and everything). I wonder it is possible to remove something from bottom to get access or impossible ? I am considering to use the braided flexible line with banjo fitting on both end. So getting a line in and out is relatively doable.

Thanks,
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 03:18 PM
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I hope someone has a good solution to your question and please let us know the source for the flex line that works in this location. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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Just did one for a customer today. Just removed the downpipe and then did it, no service mode.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Did you replace with OEM line or flex line ?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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Used a new OEM line.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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Thanks for confirmation.
Do you mind to share the part numbers? ( I'm thinking downpipe gasket, washers for banjo bolt) Is there more?

Also I assume you remove the heat shield too? All bolts are accessible from top and bottom? Any complication??
I really appreciate your input.

Thanks,
 

Last edited by supereek; Jan 21, 2012 at 10:21 AM. Reason: add more content
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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Hi,

Here is some pictures from turbo oil pipe replacement job.

I purchase the braided stainless steel line from techna-fit.com (http://www.techna-fit.com/turbobulk.html). I used a 20 inch line (4a <-size of line) with two banjo adaptors (12 mm) at both end and one end is 90 angle bend. At the time of purchase, I didn't have the exact length for the stock turbo line. It turned out to be little long but i guess it is okay. I think if anybody want to order, probably get away with 16 inch line. (or order two for 16 and 18 inch). Price was $16 ( line and two banjo adaptor) and paid ~$10 for shipping. Then I got extra banjo bolt, gaskets and downpipe gasket from dealer.

A friend of mine did this job for me and it took about 3 1/2 hr for him. First One needs to remove heat shield from top. Remove oxygen sensor that attach to top of downpipe. and two more heat shields pieces underneath and downpipe.

Replaceing oil line is straight forward but getting those bolts in and out for heatshields is time-consuming and painful.

I attached couple of pictures from the job. Banjo adaptor and a line has tapered fitting to be crushed. There is no crimped joint with rubber o-ring like OEM . Less likely deteriorated over time. 90 angle side is used for turbo inlet and straight is for engine block.
 
Attached Thumbnails turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_151726.jpg   turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_161019.jpg   turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_161032.jpg  
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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More pictures.
 
Attached Thumbnails turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_161704.jpg   turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_162112.jpg   turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_163831.jpg  
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:33 AM
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another picture
 
Attached Thumbnails turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-img_20120127_163948.jpg  
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Turbo oil leak

I was in at Dealer for Water Pump Recall, and was told I have the leak at the top of the line, as it enters Turbo. So I am wondering if the failure is the pipe itself or the seals above and below the banjo fitting? i.e.: should a first effort be to just replace the seals? I plan on doing the complete pipe set replacement myself, if this is the best way to go.

This would lead me to the question of using the Detroit Tuned Kit? What are its benefits over the Mini parts? I will also add in the later heat shield, which is not on my 2007 S.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:23 AM
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Hi,

The leak spot is not washer under banjo bolt. It is a connection between hardline and banjo adaptor. It is a crimp fitting with rubber o-ring inside and it gets wear out overtime. O-ring is a culprit. Unless you are planning to replace the line, do not touch the line.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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Ok, thanks for the explanation. I have added in a picture of the damp area around the fitting. So I have the death rattle to fix, and the oil line, and also, time for an oil change. Then the Control Arm bushings. So much fun so little time.

Chad from Detroit Tune says they are working on an improved solution to just replacing the stock line. So maybe that will help.
 
Attached Thumbnails turbo oil feed line access from bottom?-mini-oil-leak.jpg  
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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The O-Ring gets baked by the turbo over time. I was able to sliver solder mine (removed from the car of course). No leaks works good.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Is this something that people have been doing as a preventative maintenance? I've read a bunch about turbo's going out (mine was replaced before I bought the car used), so just curious if this something I should be thinking about.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Check TSB SI M 11 03 08 turbocharger line blockage. There is a heat shield that can be bought for preventative maintainance.

11 65 7 603 484

From the TSB looks like anything built later than 12/2009 has it installed from the factory.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:30 AM
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hi i have quite alot of leakage around the top inlet, do you know the exact part numbers you orderd supereek including the number for the shorter braided pipe you are talking about just had a look on there website and not sure wich parts to order
cheers
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 07:35 AM
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Hi,

I don't know part number. I called them and asked what you want.
After you call them, tell you need a turbo oil feed line with two 12mm banjo bolts and its size is 4A for a line.(probably common size for turbo line) you want 90 degree bend for one end and straight for the other. For the length I got 20 inches and it was too long as shown in pictures. probably 18 inch will be fine or even 16inch. (<-this is your call. or order both since the price isn't high.)
It sounds like they are custom made upon each order.

I got banjo crush rings and one extra banjo bolt from dealer. You can re-used the banjo bolt.( so I got one extra just in case). Also you need to buy downpipe gasket from dealer too.
For dealer parts, look for real-oem.com for your exact build date.
 

Last edited by supereek; Apr 17, 2012 at 07:39 AM. Reason: add more detail.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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thats great cheers for your quick reply, did you do the return line aswell? Does this also end up leaking i cant see as its underneath the turbo. Also is it definatly just the heatshields and downpipe that need to be removed and not the turbo and manifold as ive read some people have done this,
cheers
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 08:39 AM
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No, I didn't touch a return line. only replaced the oil feed line. I didn't put the car in service mode( which involves taking bumper off.)
There are three piece of heat shields with lots of bolts.
Maybe lots of curse and swear words due to tight space.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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So the turbo and manifold stay in place, thanks for your help just orded the hose il let u know how I get on!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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What length of line did you order the 16" or the 18"? Im about to place an order for this also. I think this is the best solution for this issue. I have just started smelling oil for the last 4 months so im not sure if its the supply or return line. put it in service mode to clean all the intake pipes after i put a catch can in and failed to look over these hoses.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 02:01 PM
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I ordered the factory kit from Way. Should be arriving shortly. I might look into ordering the Stainless Steel as back-up. Needed to get this done ASAP, as tube is loose at top of Turbo.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Can someone measure the old hard line from the banjo bolt to banjo bolt and give me a total length. I plan on replacing both line but replace the supply line with the braided type.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 06:26 AM
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ive orderd an 18 inch hose just came now so i havent fitted it yet will let everyone no how that goes, do i need to use ptfe tape on the banjo fittings and bolt? I was thinking no as it would surely melt straight away?Also has anyone fitted a new small heatshield around the line or wrapped in heat wrap? Or will the new braided line be ok with the heat??
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 06:39 AM
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Please do not use teflon tape.. the seal is made through tapered end (ferrule looking thing). not with a thread.
 
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