ok cheers guna start nice and early tomorrow il let u guys no how i get on

 

The braided line is a compression fit to banjo, so no tape or anything is needed. The Banjo is sealed by the copper crush gaskets. I would think a torque number for these would be useful? Has anyone seen that? Were you using the original banjo bolts or did you order new ones with the line and fittings? If so, what lenght did you order? Would be nice to have a complete parts list from technafit with part numbers.

 

I got my lines in from Way. Will replace both this weekend. I measured the in-feed line. It measures 18in around the bends. Here is apicture of both lines.

 

Hope this helps. If I have missed anything reply with some recommendations!

 

The writeup looks pretty good! I was worried I would have to put the car into service mode or something when I first found this leak (on the bottom of the feed line in my case...). The 'official' version includes service mode (Bentley manual).

The only comment on the writeup - what you called the "exhaust gas thermocouple" is actually an oxygen sensor.

I'm planning on doing the flexible turbo feed line from Technafit and the factory drain line while I'm in there.

-Charlie

 

Just completed this replacement yesterday, might have took longer than expected but wasn't terrible. I looked at the guide here, thumbed through the Bentley service manual for downpipe removal, and even checked out how to put it the front support into service position.

While doing the job, without moving front support into service position, I thought several times how it would be nice to have a couple of extra inches of clearance. Service position moves the entire front of the car about 2.5" which really would be nice. When reinstalling the heat shields, I almost did put the front in service position, but did eventually get everything installed without doing it.

I installed a stainless braided teflon line, instead of the stock piece, and glad I didn't have to try to snake a new stock line into position. I ended up having to bend the old one to get it out. I also wrapped the new line with a insulated/reflective shield to keep the oil from getting baked inside of the line. I just wish I could check the block attachment point for leaks directly, but will keep an eye out below the block heat shield.

 

I did this over the weekend. I had a local hydraulic shop do the feed line and went with a -3AN line, which turned out to be the wrong choice. The smaller line has a shorter 90* radius at the top and didn't clear the turbo as well as the -4AN line. So, go with a -4AN line, 18" long and you will be happy. Make sure it doesn't rest against anything on the way down to the block. I put some large vacuum tube (split and squeezed over) the line where it might touch the block to keep any chafing to a minimum. I also put on the factory top shield and added a bit of exhaust wrap where the factory top heat shield doesn't cover well.

All the scratches up and down my hands/arms should heal in a few days.

If I had practice as putting the car in 'service mode' it probably would have been faster to do it that way. Last time I tried that (alternator replacement), I couldn't get it to pull out (probably missed something) and so I didn't try this time.

-Charlie

 

My '08 MCS is at the dealer right now for scheduled diagnostic and it sounds like my feed line has a slight leak as well.

Looks like a great walkthrough, thanks for this I'd be tempted to try it myself, but I don't have easy access to a lift and have pretty large hands.

Any recommendations on a shop to do this work in the Cincinnati area? Cincy MINI wants $868 for the job, which seems kind of unreasonable to me. Am I off base here?

 

Flex line update!

It's a complete rubbish. My 3rd teardown to replace the oil feed line back to OEM. The flex line was burnt crispy and was a complete mess. Use the OEM feed line, it allows better oil flow and with the new heat shield I don't foresee a failure. I have over 150K on my rig. Just an fyi!

 

So you're saying don't use the Detroit Tuned line? I already have and have heard that the heat shield does nothing. O dear, o dear, who is to believe?

 

I think Briguy had ordered some custom flex line from another vendor and had them construct a line for him. Not sure how the material used by that vendor compares to the line that DT produces.

 

13 hour saga complete, most of it was dealing w/ the heat shields.

If the Detroit Tuned one fails quickly, there's going to be some strongly worded letters flying about.

The "heat shield" isn't shielding the oil line, it's shielding the scoop, IMO. Seriously... think about it. Stand in front of a fire or a heater w/ your back to it. Now take a sheet of aluminum foil and hold it up in front of you. How much heat is being shielded from your back? The one around the turbo isn't shielding the turbo from the Cat, right?

At best, it's acting like a heat SINK. It's been over a decade since i read anything on thermodynamics, so I could be wrong. But, I doubt it.

Edit: i looked at my friends heat shield again... it was on wrong. When on properly, it does act as a shield

 

I don't recall reading that anybody in this thread has actually tried the Detroit Tuned line yet. I would love to hear from someone who has.

 

I used the flex line from techna-fit.com. Clam that its stainless steel but the fittings are not. Mine were rusted the first month it was on there, looked like crap. Second month the coating they put on the line was baked and burnt half way. I should have taken a picture but the dump has it now (what a waist of $50). The oil passage seemed smaller than oem which would allow less oil to heat up on the way to the turbo.

As for the new heat shield...it's a heat shield. Your not talking about low level heat as from the exhaust manifold. The heat builds up from the turbo which is restricting the exhaust gasses from leaving the exhaust pipe, a heat collector..under constant high load the turbo can get almost red hot. So for an experiment take a propane torch and hold it in front of the shield. I believe it's protecting the oil line at times if extreme heat, with proper oil flow it should keep everything cool enough. I am still dissatisfied with oem, especially because my 30 year old 944T has the original oil line without one drip of oil.

 

I installed the DT line. Got about 7,000 miles and coming up on 3 months since I installed it. Seems to be holding up fine so far. I was back in there a month ago as I still have a leak I am trying to track down and it pretty much looked brand new still. Hoping to boroscope the area later this month and I'll get another look at it.

 

I installed the Dt line just before thanksgiving, ~1500miles on it so far. No issues here.

I will point out though that if you already have a catless downpipe installed, there is no need to remove it to do the job. Just pull all 3 heat shields off and remove the oil lines.

 

Sweet, thanks. I only have 21k miles but if it is so much superior over OEM, I install it when I do the exhaust manifold.

 

Is there a reason you can't just unplug the O2 sensor and pull the connector through the hole in the heat shield rather than removing the O2 sensor from the down pipe? Seems like ti would be a lot less trouble to do it this way.

 

Recieved it today nice set up.

http://www.outmotoring.com/detroit-t...-oil-line.html

 

Our line has never gotten "crispy". We have had a line on my moms test car for almost 30K with out an issue. If anyone ever has an issue with anything we sell, please give us a call and we would do our best to make it right. To date we have sold about 400 or more lines.

the simple kit: http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/

the complete kit: http://www.detroittuned.com/dt-turbo...ine-super-kit/