Hey everyone

Today I left work and got home without any issues. So I got ready and when I turned on the car and was driving off, the check engine came on. But it was only half full inside and it was yellow. Basically it was the yellow check engine outline but with half filed inside. I read in the Manuel and it said full engine power no longer available. Oh and btw I did loose power, when I was trying to drive the car it wouldnt go, even if I floored it.

I immediately turn it off because I got scared. But I needed to drive it back into the garage so I turned it back on and it worked fine and the light didn't come back on.

Has anyone experience this type of problem? Just to add a note I just had the thermostat and the tensioner changed.

Thanks
Alex

 

Sounds like it sent itself into limp mode for whatever reason. Check OBDII codes to see if anything pops up. If nothing just keep driving till it happens again.

 

Thanks. That's what I'll probably do.

 

Hey guys,

Im having this problem as well its been going on for a while now i can be driving around 6th gear on the free way about 75 mph when i give it alot more gas the car immediately cuts power and the light comes on!! to get it to come of i pull over turn it off and turn it back on then good to go. what is this?
oh and its usually 95 + out .

 

Our check engine light came on yesterday.No difference in performance.

 

There's a difference between the check engine light and the reduced power indicator, which has a diagonal slash across the yellow engine outline and filled in on half of it. When I saw this on my BMW 335 it was usually related to the high pressure fuel pump. These can reset themselves when you turn the engine off, with full power restored, but the reduced power will likely recur. If I saw the reduced power indicator I would take it in, especially if you recently had work done on it.

 

I know.....apples to oranges!

 

other things that can cause this indicator are a dirty air cleaner element, and many other things. It would be great if you could tell us what code has been thrown by the computer. this would really narrow things down. If you dont have a ODBII reader you can to go many auto parts store and they will read it for free.

 

3 mechanics and $800 later and my Half Engine Power light is still on. Mini Cooper of Stevens Creep (San Joses biggest ripoff car dealership) told me they could fix the problem if I just kept pumping cash into their cash register so I went to a Bavarian mechanic and they fixed the issue by replacing all my spark plugs and doing some cylinder head work (for over $3000)...the light came back on a week later. I took it to a mechanic I totally trust, gets the best marks in town and even HE can't get the light to come off. I have had my car in the shop for over 2 months total in the past year and have spent over $12,000 for various lights and things that keep coming on with this nightmare of a car (R56's should be dragged to a ditch and lit on fire).
My understanding is that the light will keep on coming on and that you can drive the car no problem. I just got my car out of the shop AGAIN 3 days ago and had filters replaced, all fluids replaced, oil leaks inspected, ANYTHING that could be setting that light off..the light came back on yesterday. This car has less than 88,000 miles on it and EVERYTHING is broken...air conditioning and heating vents? you want to defrost? NOPE, the car will heat your feet, you have to keep hitting buttons and hope that the air comes out up top...want to open your trunk? NOPE, the trunk latch like most Mini Cooper is broken and will cost over $800 to repair, for the second time in 2 years. There is more broken stuff on this car that was sold to me as EXCELLENT condition a year and a half ago than you can wish on your worst enemy.
I drive around with a PLETHORA of emergency lights going off all the time, brakes were all redone but the Brake light WONT GO OFF and I've had Pep Boys and a random tire shop try to reset the light 4 times, screw it. This Half Power light? it's nothing. the car goes forward when you step on the gas and stop when you step on the brakes. With a Mini Cooper I have learned ONE THING, never drive more than 25 miles from your home and you will be fine. Use it to get groceries and go to work, but if you use if for pleasure you are driving it into the ground faster and a VERY EXPENSIVE bill of some sort. If I listed all the things I've had done in the engine, some twice already, you mini cooper owners would be shaking. I've put on less than 14,000 miles and it's just AWFUL. I bought the car a year and a half ago at $10,000, it's now worth $4,000...with over $12,000 of new engine put into it that keeps failing. What kind of car depreciates that fast? Welcome to the HALF POWER ENGINE LIGHT club.

 

I couldn't resist reading this and not say something! I think you should call up a lawyer and get your money back because pumping money for a service that you did not get is absolutely unacceptable! As for the resurring check engine light, doest come back for the SAME fault? With all that money pumped, did you replace the ECU?

 

johnhaxby....Without knowing what year and model you have, and without supplying codes generated by your ECU, there is no way any of us can help. So, a few clues?

 

I had this same problem and after a lot of troubleshooting and codes that didnt make sense, i got it fixed. I had a small valve cover gasket leak and bad Coilpacks. After i replaced the gasket (cheap), new spark plugs, and new coilpacks (not cheap) its been running perfectly, no codes or limp mode.

 

Checking in on this thread because I too have a pesky Half Power Engine Light on my R55S. The comments here are not encouraging. I actually was so desperate that I now have a reliable vehicle(OK, it's a jeep, so maybe not THAT reliable) on the side so that I have a car to drive while fixing my mini.
I had a brake light issue in the past. It was most likely someone replaced the brakes once upon a time, but never reset the sensor. Brakes are looking OK. Instead of replacing sensor, I actually had my boyfriend look up how to reroute the sensor so it doesn't kick on the dash light, but it also won't tell me when the brakes are bad. I'm kind of OK with that because I trust I will be able to tell when the brakes are getting iffy.
For the engine light, I have now replaced spark plugs and engine coils, turbo oil line and the light is still on. I'm just not sure what to do about it. I am trying to investigate all cheap options first, but have heard some horrifying turbo replacement stories. I wonder if it's another sensor issue like my above brake light story. It's probably one I would be willing to replace, because, well, engine. I was thinking about taking it to an actual Mini for diagnosis, but am afraid after hearing these stories. :( what to do. I hope newer models aren't this much trouble, but this doesn't help us too much. Was considering just continuing to drive it because engine behaves well(I have heard coils going bad in the past). Oh well. I'll fill you all in if I make any progress.

 

johnhaxby!!!...Nothing like an R56 n14 Headache....**** you look at mine and it breaks....
So when I park it I never look back!!...One I'm hoping it catches on fire and I can get rid of it...Two when someone is texting while driving and I'm next to them I pray they put me in the wall..to get rid of it .... Three...I hope someone thinks it's a great deal when I can trade it in or sell it...For the Love of Mary!!..this R56 N14 is the worst built car BMW has ever manufactured...
My 79' Beetle...never broke as much as this...09' MCS R56 N14

 

lol...dont ask for what you wish for...you never know when these accidents happen while you are in the car and god forbid, you not only loose the car, but your life too...not worth it.

I have been working on minis for more than two years and they are not THAT bad...I think the key element to keep your car healthy is to check the fluids once in a while. When you do get a check engine light, you need to have a GOOD/excellent code reader.

My next project will be swapping to N18 on these cars...

 

what codes are you getting?

 

Hi My name is Josh, I have a 2009 Mini Cooper S Clubman, My car just started to give me the half yellow engine warning today. This is a Warning Light not a Check Engine Light, so it won't give you a Trouble Code. I have a OBD2 Scanner and the cars is clean, no error codes, permanent codes, nor pending codes. Please trust me I am a former mechanic. This light comes on and off randomly. I think it's due to me driving this car fast as hell, and lagging on taking it to get an oil and fluids changed. I know you have been at that red light gunning it when it turns green like you have to be the first to pass that crosswalk at the other side of that intersection to show people that you may be in a small vehicle but this one is powerful and not one of those stupid FIATS. And for those that are saying that Mini's were badly engineered, don't blame the car. Blame yourselves! I know all of you didn't check your fluids periodically like mentioned in the cars bible. How do I know this? Because I did the same thing, and now I'm gonna pay the price. So stop putting the car down, if you take care of something the right way, it will last you. In my case, I think what is going on with my car based on what I have read here, is that I may have overheated my car a bit because lately it's been hotter in Moreno Valley. Why did it overheat a bit, simple... I didnt check the engine coolant, I know it's not empty and I still haven't checked it because I haven't gotten a Low Coolant Light. but I know I should still check because the Coolant Sensor may be bad. The overheating may have caused a small gasket leak and that may be triggering the half engine light. It's just common sense.

 

you are correct , I have three scanners and i can't pull a code for a half check engine light .....

 

If you drive your car fast as hell, you better be prepared to keep an eagle eye on vital fluids, and keep up on your maintenance. If you are low on any vital fluid, failure is definitely in your future. If you are waiting for some light to come on to tell you that your car is experiencing failure, YOU are failing your car. If a warning light is coming on, even "intermittently", there IS an issue. Get it to a shop that has the proper scan tool to diagnose the issue, ASAP. That's just common sense, if you care to keep your car for a while. Good luck.

 

I had this happen to me on route 95 doing 95 and it was 95 degrees with high humidity.
My scangauge was showing water,oil. & trans running a little over 200 degrees which was more than normal and then it happened -- light came on and power dropped instantly.
Pulled over and did some serious cursing and then started checking. Called AAA for tow truck and then sat in the car and was getting bored so I restarted the car and you just know the ***** started up and was ready to roll. Called AAA and canceled and the I pussyfooted home in shame.
Next day did some super checking of all kinds of ridiculous things and found no (NADA) problems so I took that badboy out and HAMMERED it. Just what it needed and there haven't been any problems since. It was an uncomfortably hot and humid day and a new adventure.
ISAMIN

 

"Blowing the cobwebs out of it", otherwise known as the "Italian tune-up". Yes, it does work. Sometimes.

 

I am also getting this strange error. The car fine when I start, but if I drive it around 75 to 80 MPH in warmer weather, this error light comes on. I plug in my handy dandy little computer error reader and wait, but it says no error codes found! This is very frustrating.. Anyone have any idea what this is?
I had already replace the PVC valve, the hose that connects it to the rear of the block, the water pump and water pump pulley and the serpentine belt, the Thermostat housing and water tube. Needless to say, a complete flush of the cooling system simply by default.

What else? Perhaps a totally new engine, or just another car?

 

You need more than a simple obd reader...it should be deep tissue reader...there are other components that trigger CEL that are not engine related.
For example, on my 2013 HT justa, the CEL came on for transmission clutch lockup solenoid.
So, it would be better if you can get another reader.

where you located?

 

 

Ubercod (above) followed the same course as me...gasket, plugs, coils. My Mini is running great again. Sounds like we have the same mileage...I just passed 88,888 miles.