Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

EML light on: error codes are 5E1A and 5E19

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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #1  
minintrigue's Avatar
minintrigue
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EML light on: error codes are 5E1A and 5E19

A couple of weeks ago, my EML light started coming on every few days. No other lights come on with it and I've experienced no loss of power. I purchased a Bavarian Technic diagnostic tool and I'm getting the following codes:

5E1A:
CAN DME/DDE signal error
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

5E19:
CAN DME/DDE, engine torque not adjustable
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

I've searched the interweb but have found nothing conclusive - any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 02:52 AM
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anyone?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #3  
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JumpingJackFlash
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From: Yorktown, VA
The first thing that comes to mind is checking and reseating the ECU connectors, but that's the wrong harness. From what little I can gather, it is possible one or more connectors to various engine components are not seated properly. If they are not connected, the loop is not closed.

I'm sure you have already seen this link: http://blog.bavauto.com/8371/bmw-m54...lation-repair/. I would guess the code reader/scanner you purchased would do a reset as well as the procedure listed.

I did another generic Internet search for "engine torque not adjustable" "mini cooper" in Google. This thread seems to be a possible hit: http://www.*********************/for...sc-issues.html (it's at Motoring Alliance; stupid forum keeps blocking the URL). From what it is indicating, 5E19 is related to the DSC. Possibly a bad sensor, or the DSC cannot handle the engine torque. The latter would be due to a custom tune that's possibly not set up properly. If you have the factory JCW tune, maybe the ECU needs to be reprogrammed.

Another thread the search netted: http://www.fastsaloons.com/forums/vi...40e12e57d1cd5f. It's not a MINI thread, but it's BMW-related. One of the things mentioned early on is checking the cleanliness/quality of the MAF (mass airflow sensor). 1st-gen MINIs ('02-'06) don't have these; they have speed-density that uses two MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors. Based on that, you can check the connectors and cleanliness of them. The downstream MAP or T-MAP is on the front of the intake manifold, the upstream MAP is above the thermostat housing, to the right of the head facing the engine.

How about any correlating ECU codes? Beyond this, I would say that, since there is no way to know for sure, don't drive the MINI very much until it can be taken in for service.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #4  
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minintrigue
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wow, thanks for the ideas. I do also have the following:

0234:
Turbo/Supercharger Overboost Condition

1237:
Secondary Upstream Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Low Input

This all started when I installed my Detroit Tuned Bypass valve and broke the supercharger intake tube, but tried to run it anyway. Replaced that, but not the green gasket because the dealer told me i didn't need to, and can't find anything that's not put back correctly. The EML began coming on at about the same time the SeS with the other codes did, but I didn't think they were related, but maybe so.

Frankly the car runs fantastic even with both lights on, which is the main difference from all of the threads i've found. I actually took it into MINI to have diagnosed/fixed, and they had it all day but when I called to pick it up they told me their diagnostic system was down and I'd have to bring it back. That's when I bought the Bav Tec.

I'd love to figure it out on my own, but am not sure really where to start.

Oddly enough, it only comes on after the car sits over night in my garage and its cold outside. It sits in a parking garage all day where its about 55 degrees, and it never comes on when I leave there.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #5  
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JumpingJackFlash
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From: Yorktown, VA
OK, then one condition might play into another. Perhaps the DSC is throwing a torque code because the MAP sensors are not able to properly read the manifold pressure. That is due to the fact your intake tube was not properly sealed. If you have replaced the tube, and the codes still come on, the only thing I can think of at the moment is something is not properly sealed. Also, since your code is 1237, that indicates the upstream MAP sensor right in front of the manifold. Just double-check the wiring. Maybe reseat the harness connector. Here is a link that shows the locations (this took a bit of digging): https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-location.html.

I also have a DT BPV, and it was more of a pain to install than the instructions indicated. I too partially broke my intake tube, but it was the small loop at the base that slides onto a bolt (BPV instructions, page 6). From what I can tell, this is just a point to help hold the tube in its place. Realistically, the tube is able to stay in its place.

Don't sweat the overboost condition. If you tend to go WOT (wide open throttle) at times, and you take the engine all the way to the red line, you might get this code.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 05:08 PM
  #6  
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Ok, just pulled the codes again and it appears that I also have a P1498 - Downstream Supercharger Air Leak

I did pull the Tmap sensor and it looked fine, other than the film of oil on it. I assume this is normal?

Lastly, I have a feeling that this is all due to possibly not getting that green gasket on properly which is preventing the intake tube from seating properly. When I was purchasing my new intake tube, I asked the parts guy if I need the new gasket and he said no. I was in a very bad state of mind at that time and didn't think it through, but probably should have replaced it. And there was no arrow, etc that indicated which way to put it on so I had a 50/50 shot at it. Regardless, looks like the car is going back into service mode to verify the proper install of that gasket. If not that, I have no idea.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 12:05 PM
  #7  
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BRG
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From: Ontario, Canada
Supercharger downstream air leak

I may have the same problem and we are in the middle of trying to figure out the cause.

A day after removing/ refilling supercharger both engine / EML lights came on. Yes, gaskets replaced.

Later the EML went out and laterr the engine light turned off.

Next day they both came back on and eventually went off again in the same sequence. This has been going on for a week and there has been no impact on vehicles performance which I can detect.

While the lights were on the diagnostic showed "Supercharger downstream air leak". I was told a smoke test was needed but so far no signs of a leak. Apparently there is only so much pressure you can put into the system for this kind of check.

The concern is the engine could be running lean which burns valves so we want to make sure the problem is dealt with.

It's four hours and counting on the diagnostics ... Anyone experience this kind of thing and know what the cause may be ?

btw, I replaced the clutch and the mechanic said the air leak issue could have been there beforehand but without a strong clutch to drive up the engine speed and boost I could not trigger the air leak. ( I think this is hogwash - we are not raising the engine speed any more than we were with the worn clutch )

Any ideas ?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2012 | 10:28 AM
  #8  
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BRG
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From: Ontario, Canada
Supercharger Air Leak

Follow up to my post.

We have replaced the intake duct leading from the throttle body to the Supercharger ... $220 piece of plastic from dealer !!! ( Interesting to note MINI dealership stocks this part )

To do this you must remove the front bumper and tilt the radiator out of the way. My independent mechanic helped reduce cost to $0.00 labour. Loyalty has it's rewards.

You may find this problem show up under mfg diagnostic code 5272 or an aftermarket code of P1498.

Hard to believe German engineers can't design a plastic tube correctly.
 
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