Hi all,

Let me start off by saying that I LOVE MINIs and this is my second one. However, a current experience is pushing me toward getting rid of her after just 9 months of ownership.

Here's the deal: I took my car to the dealership because my oil lines to the turbo were leaking. I did have the AP tune on my car but I uninstalled before the deanship got their hands on it and returned it to stock ECU. I got my car back last week and immediately noticed a lack of power on the highway home...it felt like my old r50 did in terms of straight-line power.

When I get home, I pop the bonnet to find an allenwrench head broken off inside my Alta hard pipe screw, a loose hose clamp attaching a boost tube to the turbo, and a pair of loose bolts near the radiator. Needless to say I wasn't happy about my $1k payment...however I wasn't leaking oil any longer

So I write an email to the service manager and get a call from them the next morning. Had another appointment set up with a free loaner car etc.

They were unable to drill out the allen wrench head so asked if I could order another one from Alta which would be fully reimbursed....sure, works for me.

They then told me that the car was up to MINI spec and that the boost loss was due to my "chip" that I had in the car. I conceded that I did have a tune but told them that when I drove it to their deanship without the tune beforehand it was noticeably more powerful. I also told them that I logged a max boost of only 4 psi with the AP, when a stock car (like my loaner) should be hitting closer to 13 -14 psi. I told them to grab a boost gauge and go for a drive

Ah! After this process my car will have been in the shop for 4 full weeks total....in my 9 month ownership (insurance break?? )

What would you guys do in this instance??

Just had to vent. Thanks for reading.

 

Hard to say considering your mods and un-mod prior to the dealership visit. Too many hands in the pot...

 

Uninstalled AP at my house, drove very strong for the half hour ride to the dealership. Pick it up and very laggy on the way home. Is it possible for the ECU to be a factor when it was driving 100% on the way there?

 

Doesn't sound like it's the car's fault really. Dealership should have alerted you to the damaged bolt though.

 

1.) Throughly check your car before leaving it, and before picking it up.

There is no excuse for that shoddy level of workmanship. I'd complain to the service manager, and the dealership ownership. It is unacceptable.

2.) I'd check all the other connections in the intake tract. Did they leave something, (bpv?) unplugged?

 

Please share where you had this amazing work done so the community can be warned.

 

I'm pretty convinced it's a bpv issue. I'm going to check it out this weekend and make sure it's connected properly or if the spring needs replacing.

The dealership is New Country MINI in Hartford, CT but to their credit they are trying everything possible to get it resolved. I took a drive with their head mechanic and he did agree it seemed a bit underpowered compared to normal. He said to drive it for a a few weeks then stop back in to have it checked out but that it was hard to diagnose without the car throwing any codes or warning lights. He then added that it could be a number of things including damage to the turbo being oil starved but since it was driving very strong just prior to the incident I feel it's something much smaller.

I'll check out the bpv this weekend and update....there is currently a fluttering sound for the blow-off (but not the MINI challenge flutter) which would make sense if something were loose. Thanks for the input!

Have a great rest of the week all!

 

4 pounds of boost is not acceptable. BPV would be a reasonable place to start. I have no personal experience with New Country, but their reputation used to be very good. Not so much the last couple of years, though. Hope you get things straightened out soon!

 

Have you tried reflashing? BPV will throw a code if not connected, also the spring doesnt hold the valve shut it is an electronic solenoid, the spring assists in the closing of the valve.

Definitely do a reflash/disconnect the battery for 5 min(pump the brakes to release and voltage stuck in the brake circuitry to reset all ecu adaptations as well.

where are you reading boost from the AP?


Ensure the vacuum line from the waste gate is connected.

 

I plugged the AP into the OBD and was reading boost from there. Thinking it pulls it from the MAF? Not sure to be honest. I realize this isn't the best method but all I have available at the moment. As far as reflashing goes, is it safe to reflash back to stage I, run it for 5 mins, then disconnect the battery? I'm currently bone stock as I didn't want the dealer seeing I messed with the ecu.

I will definitely check out the vacuum line as well. You can hear the turbo spooling and with the DoS I can hear the boost a bit but something is holding it back. After WOT I get a fluttering sound instead of the typical 'psssst'...hmm.

 

The fluttering could be compressor stall, definitely try flashing after disconnecting the battery. The boost signal is most likely read from the map or iat boost sensor on the charge pipe.

 

Every time you alter the factory ECU settings, whether this be a tune or remove your tune, the factory ECU logs all tampered data, and this can be read, if BMW MINI feel it necessary to do so!

Also remember that all forums are public, and not only used by enthusiastic brand vehicle owners, they can be read by anyone, and often are!

 

czar is correct, the comm logs can be read via ICID tool at the dealership, they rarely are but they can be if they want to dig in.

 

Fixed it! They forgot to plug the sensor back into the bpv....I popped off the inlet tube (saw that they damaged the turbo end a bit when they broke that screw) reached down and made sure I heard a "click". Just spun the tires through the first two gears, car is happy again

Thanks for the support and wealth of knowledge guys. It's appreciated.

Have a wonderful end to the week.

 

the bpv connector? and you didnt have a code?must have been just enough to complete the circuit to show the rights amount of resistance but then that doesnt make sense...

 

It was completely disconnected and dangling there about an inch away from the other end. I have no idea why it didn't draw a code. I'm just happy she's back to normal.

 

Did you let them know it was not connected back up and what did they say?

 

It seems that alot of times this is the case...start with the simple things! (Words of advice given to me by an aircraft engine mechanic) Glad that you found and fixed you problem.

I would give that service manager a really big butt chewing. When you can open the bonnet and see loose parts, that is a problem, but when you see things like stripped screws or broken parts, that is a BIG problem. But when you end up fixing the car yourself!?!%&&#$?! Get serious! Your car should be as good or better physical condition as when you brought it in, and your problem should be fixed. They fixed your original problem, but caused another problem, and damaged you car. This is why people are leery of dealers. Of course this can happen at any shop, but the dealer should be an expert on fixing the cars they sell. I hate to hear this type of thing.

Sorry for the rant, but everyone needs to know that this type of thing happens all over. Just another example of why everyone needs to be vigelant and force these shops to do good work, or they will have no returning customers.

 

Focus and Yetti - I did write a lengthy email to the manager explicitly stating everything that occurred. I even took a picture of my turbo where it meets the inlet pipe to show him the chunk of metal that was taken out by the damaged screw. I made sure they were aware that I had to fix the problem myself and that the connector was simply not plugged back in afterward. I would imagine those connections would be the first thing they checked when I brought it back in....but apparently they don't do anything if there are no codes.

The manager did get back to me but only to let me know that he did receive the email. He will look into it was the last I heard. I also let them know that I would not be returning for them to install the new inlet tube when it arrives and that I will just install it at my house when my money is reimbursed for the part.

I completely agree with you Yetti. I was going to let it pass but realized this work would keep happening unless it was known. It's completely unacceptable to have to fix your car yourself and be able to tighten clamps/bolts by hand when you get a vehicle back from service.