I have been having an intermittent problem with my Check Engine/EML lights coming on. I have had it at the dealership four times for this problem. Each time they have fixed something but it always seems to come back. I dropped it off again for the problem, and the dealership says that they have a number of them coming in for this problem. Has anyone seen this problem occurring for them as well.

I currently use only BP Ultimate in the car. It seems to happen more when there is a lot of moisture in the air. It seems that based on the codes, there is misfiring occuring. The last time they indicated their was a short in the #4 wire plug and they replaced it. I have since upgraded to Denso IK22 and Kingsborne plugs. It has been raining quite heavily in Atlanta over the last week and it happened again to me this morning. It seems to hit when the engine gets into the 4,000 rpm range. A lot of lights come on, like the traction control, EML, and Check Engine light. The car sounds really rough and no power. I turn the car off, and then turn it back on, and all the lights disappear and only the Check Engine light is on. The power seems to come back and the car is much smoother. It almost seems that the car goes into a fail safe mode.

I have replaced the wires and plugs. This is my third set of wires, so I don't think it is related to that. It may be the coil pack, but everything looks good. I have had a few other intermittent electrical problems, but they are so intermittent that I can't bring it in to get serviced, because it is not repeatable. On about three occasions the Air conditioning unit does not work when I start up the car. No lights to the unit, no power, nothing. When I turn off the car and restart it, the unit works. I have also had the rainsensing wipers go out a few times. I think again, only about three times. Anyway, any thoughts anyone might have would be appreciated. As well as a comment if anyone has seen this problem occurring. Thanks.

 

I just had the same thing happen to me. The check engine light and the EML come on, power dies and the car sounds like it is misfiring. I just took it to the dealer on sat. they are supposed to get back to me tommorow. I've done some searching here and it sounds like other people have had problems with the wiring harness or the boot that goes to the supercharger. I'm waiting to see what they say. I'll let you know.

 

I just spoke with the Dealer. Turns out to be a bad wiring harness. They replaced it and said the car is running great. I will pick it up tommorow and let you know if there are any more problems with it.

 

I'm with MINI USA. We are here to work with you and your dealer. Please contact us at 866 ASK.MINI and provide your name and Vehicle Identification Number so that we can assist you. Mention Reference # 200405100164 so that we can help you more efficiently.

 

I found this post because I was searching for a way to clear the CEL because I didn't put the throttle sensor connector on completely after installing the new CAI filter. Anyway, what your describing sound EXACTLY like what happened when the connector was loose. The orientation of the throttle sensor connect is toward the front. I bet you're getting moisture in that connector. If it's not seated entirely, as it seems entirely too easy to do, the connetions are not made, the lights come on, the car tries to run and oscillates for a few seconds around 1000 rpms, and then dies. Push on the connector to make certain it's seated. Then pull it and blow it dry and reconnect. I noticed that there is a click when it seats.

 

Sounds like the factory plugged in all your harness connectors half way (kinda like DancesWithCones said) OR, you need your computer reflashed with V36. Could've caught some ESD while flashing it at the factory (it's possible)

 

I'm headed back to the dealer tomorrow for a very similar problem - although mine is mostly manifesting itself as a intermittent rough idle that will cause the car to stall about 50% of the time. My wiring harness has been replaced. On the last visit to the dealer (last week) they flashed me with V36 -- it didn't help. I don't get consistent SES lights but when I do it has reported a P1229 code which is "Throttle Sensor Adaptation Failure". I'm leaning towards the TB itself or maybe the connector, as 'Cones refers to above.

One question, 'Cones refers to the "Throttle Sensor Connector" - are you talking about the connector that goes directly onto the Throttle Body? Or is there another connector? I've tried reseating the one on the TB several times and it hasn't helped.

 

I was referring to the connector that is in this guy's hand. It connects to the little black plastic below the hand and next to the stock intake tube (on this MC). The open end of the connector faces front and offers more resistance than expected before fully seating. And is required to be fully seated to function.



I got this picture from the RSpeed How-To. In there, they warn about prying the stock hose off the throttle body using the connector as a leverage point. If pressure is applied to the connector it could break internal to the TB without any external indications. And with the number of pins and the density, it could easily cross-short.

If you've reseated the TB connector, the problem is internal and the unit needs replacing. (Bummer.) If you can, borrow a TB to see if that's the problem.

 

Thanks, John - looks like the TB is oriented differently in the MCS - that connector actually faces the rear (or maybe the driver's side) of the car. Anyway, the car is at the dealer right now and they have ordered a new Throttle Body motor (I think, he described it with an acronym that I don't recall - ETK, ETD, something motor). Should have the car back Monday and we'll see what happens.

_________________
BigBrownDog
2002 MCS Chili Red / White
Team SES candidate
Webb EVM Package
Collinsville IL / St. Louis MO Area

 

Since the last time I posted on this thread I have had my car back in once and it looks like it is going again. The car was running great after they replaced the wiring harness, but then the check engine light came on again. I brought it back to the dealer and they kept it for 1 week trying to figure out why the light was on. Apparently after sending the fault codes back and forth with Mini they determined the Map sensor needed to be replaced. They did that and all seemed well. As a matter of fact my gas milage seemed to improve dramatically. Did the same 100 mile drive before the sensor and I averaged 24-25 miles per gallon. afer the sensor I averaged 31-32 miles per gallon. However, the check engine light just came on again. Back to the dealer!

 

After a thoroughly enjoyable ride through the White Mountains and a sunset climb up the Mt. Washington Auto Road with MOT 2004, my "Service Engine Soon" or CEL and the EML lights came on during the descent. After stopping below the clouds to watch the sunset, the EML light did not appear on the re-start and the ride back to Franconia was fine. However, the next morning the EML light kept coming on- the car would go into safe mode; I would stop and shut it down; wait for the gremlins in the electronics to go back to sleep; start again with no EML light; and continue until the EML and safe mode rose again. After about 15 re-sets on my way back to Connecticut on I-91 it was not re-setting.

I called the roadside assistance number, had the car towed on a flatbed from West Springfield to New Country MINI (my dealer) in Hartford, and took a very expensive cab ride home from Hartford.

I thought it was bad gas (in the car; not me or my son- we had an air freshener for that). Nothing appeared odd under the hood, and I switched off the Unichip to see if that made a difference. I had washed the car with a sprayer under the hood before the trip and I had futzed about in the vicinity of the throttle body before that when installing the Alta intercooler, but I had none of these symptoms during the 400 miles that preceded the problem. I believe it may have been the gods above Mt. Washington who caused this after I laughed in their face and would not be put down by the 70mph winds and 90 mph gusts.

I am now waiting anxiously for the news from the service manager. With all of the mods on the car, they'll probably put this on my tab no matter what it is. Any thoughts, let me know.

To those who stopped while I was on the shoulder of the highway trying to reset the car- thank you. To all of the people who sneered at me for passing them well above the speed limit, only to see the car limping along in the shoulder shortly thereafter- what goes around, comes around.

 

One other point- When the tow released my vehicle, it started up with no EML light and ran smoothly just to **** me off.

 

No final answer yet on my problem with the EML. The service manager was thinking wiring harness, and I mentioned the throttle body connector. I don't know what OBD codes showed up.

For those who had this issue, how long was your vehcile down, and how much is involved in the wirning replacement? It sounds like a big job.

 

The wiring harness replacement was listed as 4.5 hours labor on my repair order, of course they had to order the part and that took a couple extra days.

When my throttle body was replaced, that was about 1.5 hours listed, but ordering the TB from Germany took a week. Of course they gave me a new Z4 to drive for that week so I wouldn't complain too loudly.

Good luck with your problem -- be persistent with them. There *IS* a problem there that can be solved.

 

This very thing happened to me too -- in fact, it was when the tow driver came to pick up the car. He told me to go ahead and drive it to the dealer since it was drivable (I think he didn't want to tow it for some reason). It p*ssed me off too.

 

My story is starting to sound like the good, the bad, and the ugly of after-market modifications. The service manager said that codes revealed the map sensor and throttle body actuator. The map sensor may be a pinched wire; if not, they'll replace the sensor- no bid deal. The throttle body needs to be replaced. There is some history of power surge or other electronic failure of the motor in the throttle that provides our drive-by-wire experience.

However, I have a Mini Madness over-bored throttle body. Mini Madness does nothing to the electrics or the motor; they and others bore out the throat of a stock throttle to a larger diameter and replace the shaft and valve to match the larger opening. The problems that have risen with the throttle have nothing to do with the modification, so the Mini Madness warranty will not apply. I have a modified part, even though the modifications to the part do not relate to the problem, so I can guess what the party line from the dealer will be as to my repair costs and any contribution from Mini USA.

 

This is a sticky situation. I think I would be tempted to go back to Madness and see if they'll swap out the TB for you - I can't imagine a situation where the dealer will replace a modified TB with a new part and do it under warranty. I don't know what the cost of the new TB is from the dealer, but Randy Webb charges $165 core and Helix charges $160, so I'm assuming that it's somewhere in that range. Since the TB replacement is so easy, another option for you if Madness won't replace it would be to order a new TB from Classic with the NAM discount and put it in yourself.