Timing chain issues
#251
My 2008 S Clubman was making a rattling noise starting around 2500 RPM, and it just went in to the dealer for service under the CPO warranty. They said the issue was just low oil level, and that it's normal for the turbo engines to use some oil between changes.
Now it's still making the noise even though the oil level is normal. It seems worse at low temperatures.
Does this sound like the timing chain problem that's addressed in this thread?
Now it's still making the noise even though the oil level is normal. It seems worse at low temperatures.
Does this sound like the timing chain problem that's addressed in this thread?
#253
OK I guess it's working now.
My 2008 Clubman S is making a rattle around 2000 RPM. It just came back from the dealer, where they said the issue was low oil level. They also told me it was normal for the turbo engine to use oil.
Now the oil is topped up and I'm still getting the rattle. Is this the timing chain issue?
My 2008 Clubman S is making a rattle around 2000 RPM. It just came back from the dealer, where they said the issue was low oil level. They also told me it was normal for the turbo engine to use oil.
Now the oil is topped up and I'm still getting the rattle. Is this the timing chain issue?
#254
If the sound sounds like a diesel or rocks bouncing around in the upper part of the motor it's most likely the timing chain issue. Low oil level can heighten the issue. The new fix is suppose to correct the problem. It has so far on my 07.
Do a google search for "video on timing chain issue on mini cooper" and you can compare with your noise.
If you aren't sure bring it in and have your SA check it.
I left mine over night so they could hear it first thing in the morning. And it does do it more so at colder temps.
Is your car still in warranty?
Do a google search for "video on timing chain issue on mini cooper" and you can compare with your noise.
If you aren't sure bring it in and have your SA check it.
I left mine over night so they could hear it first thing in the morning. And it does do it more so at colder temps.
Is your car still in warranty?
#256
#257
#258
2009. I've gone in twice so far but they have never done the full SIB - only pieces. They claimed it's all fixed, tho.
#259
My SA and mechanic said they won't even do a half *** fix. That's why they replaced the entire ball of wax. Car sounds awesome now, quiet as can be. If it's still doing it I'd take it back, don't want to break anything off and destroy the entire engine.
Just a ?, you do check your oil frequently don't you.
Just a ?, you do check your oil frequently don't you.
#260
My SA and mechanic said they won't even do a half *** fix. That's why they replaced the entire ball of wax. Car sounds awesome now, quiet as can be. If it's still doing it I'd take it back, don't want to break anything off and destroy the entire engine.
Just a ?, you do check your oil frequently don't you.
Just a ?, you do check your oil frequently don't you.
#261
If your oil does get low it can definietly mess the engine up (timing chain and parts). If your oil light does come on on the Mini, you are already going to be about 3 quarts low. That only leave 1.5 qts in the motor. Not good. As long as the dip stick is showing between to two bulges you are OK.
I check mine once a week and sometimes more. Probably excessive but I can't afford a new engine.
Let me know if you check it what it's reading.
I check mine once a week and sometimes more. Probably excessive but I can't afford a new engine.
Let me know if you check it what it's reading.
#263
#264
^^^Glad to hear your dealership fixed it under goodwill. Mine did also except for about $500 of it which I was still pretty happy about since I didn't have any warranty.
I'm sure Mini knows of the issue being their problem (to a point) otherwise I'm sure they wouldn't do any of these goodwill works.
It does sure sound nice now.
I'm sure Mini knows of the issue being their problem (to a point) otherwise I'm sure they wouldn't do any of these goodwill works.
It does sure sound nice now.
#265
#266
+1 for a 2011 MINI with the new N18 engine. Started about two weeks ago and even after the dealer blamed the noise on low oil levels it still makes the noise after they changed the oil.
2011 Cooper S 14k miles, oil changed every 5k
Wont have to worry about it after tomorrow though...
2011 Cooper S 14k miles, oil changed every 5k
Wont have to worry about it after tomorrow though...
#267
#268
+1 for a 2011 MINI with the new N18 engine. Started about two weeks ago and even after the dealer blamed the noise on low oil levels it still makes the noise after they changed the oil.
2011 Cooper S 14k miles, oil changed every 5k
Wont have to worry about it after tomorrow though...
2011 Cooper S 14k miles, oil changed every 5k
Wont have to worry about it after tomorrow though...
Just the other day I idoled up the dirt road through my ranch property to visit a car crazy neighbor and tractor mechanic. As I idoled up his drive he met me out front and said, "Is that thing a diesel? It sounds like a coffee pot with all that rattling!" I just laughed, assuming he was joking. I havn't tried listenning to it from the outside or without the radio blasting. He seemed serious, so I told him I'll have to check that out to get onto another topic...
So, I have to ask because I didn't read pages 5 through this page; Have any other 2011-12 MC or MCS models had this timing chain issue or is this one above the first and only?
Clam Ice Blue ocean, calm Ice Blue ocean, calm Ice Blue ocean...
Last edited by BlackIce; 01-13-2012 at 11:35 AM.
#269
#271
My 2008 MCS with 23,500 miles does it very intermittently. Rarely during start up, usually after driving around town for an hour or so, then it goes away and might not do it for a couple of days. Oil level is perfect. I only have about 8 months left on my warranty. Wish it just stop or just get really worse soon!
#272
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+1 2008 Clubman S. Had some rattling and then a whine. Loss of power and check engine light. They now say the entire timing chain system needs replacing at a cost of 2K before they can decide if that is why the turbo is not spinning up. Otherwise, I need a new turbo as well for over 3500. 70,000 miles on the car.
NEVER BUYING A MINI PRODUCT AGAIN.
NEVER BUYING A MINI PRODUCT AGAIN.
#273
From post #165:
I spent the morning reading pages 5 through the end in this post (read 1-4 yesterday) to see for myself if 2011-12 Mini's are prone to this. It seems there are a couple, but that might just be because they haven't got the mileage clocked on them yet. Time will tell...
Being new to Mini, but not cars, I find it interesting that the oil pressure controls the timing chain tension on these engines. I'm guessing the S's have more issues because of the extra forces on the chain causing them to stretch more frequently than the non-S (just a guess).
As a car guy I want to know what the REAL fix is, not the dealer/manufacturer bandaide with the same defective parts or new defective parts.
First, here's some questions that come to mind:
1) Is it actaully a low oil pressure issue that causes the chain tensioner to malfunction and chain skip a tooth or get jerked around causing it to stretch out of specifications? (EI: oil pump issue or lack of oil issue)
2) Is the tensioner material or design the problem and not the oil pressure causing it?
3) Is the chain Mini is using not up to the job it needs to perform?
4) Are the gears faulty; wearing out too fast or made of inferior materials?
5) Is it a heat issue due to the hot running temps of these engines combined with the cheap materials used that can't handle the heat?
6) Is it the $300+ Adjustment Unit, Inlet Camshaft part #11367545862 on the R56 Cooper S that is malfunctioning?
(View it here: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=11&fg=25&hl=6 )
It would be nice to know what the REAL cause/contributing factor is regarding this failure.
Secondly, doesn't any aftermarket company make replacement parts that do the job right?
When OEM parts fail, I generally turn to aftermarket replacement parts that get produced to higher specs to correct continued problematic issues like this. Of course when under warranty you are kind of stuck with what the dealer offers, but once out of warranty I run for the hills from OEM parts and look for better ones (maybe they don't exist?).
I think I will be adding a gauge cluster of some type to see what the engine is really doing and look into a oil sump to add more oil if available.
Just my 2-Cents on this. Hoping my new MC doesn't go down this road, but I'm starting to have my doubts...
It's conceivable; if your oil level is low, it could induce a timing chain rattle because the tensioner utilizes oil pressure to keep the chain at the proper tension. If the oil level is low your oil pressure will drop accordingly; perhaps not enough to induce the oil pressure warning in the instrument cluster, but enough to prevent the tensioner from keeping the chain taut enough, and it could start rattling a bit.
Check the oil level regularly on these MINI's! Some of them are problematic "oil eaters!"
Check the oil level regularly on these MINI's! Some of them are problematic "oil eaters!"
Being new to Mini, but not cars, I find it interesting that the oil pressure controls the timing chain tension on these engines. I'm guessing the S's have more issues because of the extra forces on the chain causing them to stretch more frequently than the non-S (just a guess).
As a car guy I want to know what the REAL fix is, not the dealer/manufacturer bandaide with the same defective parts or new defective parts.
First, here's some questions that come to mind:
1) Is it actaully a low oil pressure issue that causes the chain tensioner to malfunction and chain skip a tooth or get jerked around causing it to stretch out of specifications? (EI: oil pump issue or lack of oil issue)
2) Is the tensioner material or design the problem and not the oil pressure causing it?
3) Is the chain Mini is using not up to the job it needs to perform?
4) Are the gears faulty; wearing out too fast or made of inferior materials?
5) Is it a heat issue due to the hot running temps of these engines combined with the cheap materials used that can't handle the heat?
6) Is it the $300+ Adjustment Unit, Inlet Camshaft part #11367545862 on the R56 Cooper S that is malfunctioning?
(View it here: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=11&fg=25&hl=6 )
It would be nice to know what the REAL cause/contributing factor is regarding this failure.
Secondly, doesn't any aftermarket company make replacement parts that do the job right?
When OEM parts fail, I generally turn to aftermarket replacement parts that get produced to higher specs to correct continued problematic issues like this. Of course when under warranty you are kind of stuck with what the dealer offers, but once out of warranty I run for the hills from OEM parts and look for better ones (maybe they don't exist?).
I think I will be adding a gauge cluster of some type to see what the engine is really doing and look into a oil sump to add more oil if available.
Just my 2-Cents on this. Hoping my new MC doesn't go down this road, but I'm starting to have my doubts...
#274
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I spent the morning reading pages 5 through the end in this post (read 1-4 yesterday) to see for myself if 2011-12 Mini's are prone to this. It seems there are a couple, but that might just be because they haven't got the mileage clocked on them yet. Time will tell...
Being new to Mini, but not cars, I find it interesting that the oil pressure controls the timing chain tension on these engines. I'm guessing the S's have more issues because of the extra forces on the chain causing them to stretch more frequently than the non-S (just a guess).
As a car guy I want to know what the REAL fix is, not the dealer/manufacturer bandaide with the same defective parts or new defective parts.
First, here's some questions that come to mind:
1) Is it actaully a low oil pressure issue that causes the chain tensioner to malfunction and chain skip a tooth or get jerked around causing it to stretch out of specifications? (EI: oil pump issue or lack of oil issue)
2) Is the tensioner material or design the problem and not the oil pressure causing it?
3) Is the chain Mini is using not up to the job it needs to perform?
4) Are the gears faulty; wearing out too fast or made of inferior materials?
5) Is it a heat issue due to the hot running temps of these engines combined with the cheap materials used that can't handle the heat?
6) Is it the $300+ Adjustment Unit, Inlet Camshaft part #11367545862 on the R56 Cooper S that is malfunctioning?
(View it here: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=11&fg=25&hl=6 )
It would be nice to know what the REAL cause/contributing factor is regarding this failure.
Secondly, doesn't any aftermarket company make replacement parts that do the job right?
When OEM parts fail, I generally turn to aftermarket replacement parts that get produced to higher specs to correct continued problematic issues like this. Of course when under warranty you are kind of stuck with what the dealer offers, but once out of warranty I run for the hills from OEM parts and look for better ones (maybe they don't exist?).
I think I will be adding a gauge cluster of some type to see what the engine is really doing and look into a oil sump to add more oil if available.
Just my 2-Cents on this. Hoping my new MC doesn't go down this road, but I'm starting to have my doubts...
Being new to Mini, but not cars, I find it interesting that the oil pressure controls the timing chain tension on these engines. I'm guessing the S's have more issues because of the extra forces on the chain causing them to stretch more frequently than the non-S (just a guess).
As a car guy I want to know what the REAL fix is, not the dealer/manufacturer bandaide with the same defective parts or new defective parts.
First, here's some questions that come to mind:
1) Is it actaully a low oil pressure issue that causes the chain tensioner to malfunction and chain skip a tooth or get jerked around causing it to stretch out of specifications? (EI: oil pump issue or lack of oil issue)
2) Is the tensioner material or design the problem and not the oil pressure causing it?
3) Is the chain Mini is using not up to the job it needs to perform?
4) Are the gears faulty; wearing out too fast or made of inferior materials?
5) Is it a heat issue due to the hot running temps of these engines combined with the cheap materials used that can't handle the heat?
6) Is it the $300+ Adjustment Unit, Inlet Camshaft part #11367545862 on the R56 Cooper S that is malfunctioning?
(View it here: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=11&fg=25&hl=6 )
It would be nice to know what the REAL cause/contributing factor is regarding this failure.
Secondly, doesn't any aftermarket company make replacement parts that do the job right?
When OEM parts fail, I generally turn to aftermarket replacement parts that get produced to higher specs to correct continued problematic issues like this. Of course when under warranty you are kind of stuck with what the dealer offers, but once out of warranty I run for the hills from OEM parts and look for better ones (maybe they don't exist?).
I think I will be adding a gauge cluster of some type to see what the engine is really doing and look into a oil sump to add more oil if available.
Just my 2-Cents on this. Hoping my new MC doesn't go down this road, but I'm starting to have my doubts...
- A defective tensioner that does not properly tension the chain. I do not know what the root cause is (mechanical, blocked oil flow, excessive heat, sub-standard materials, etc.) in the case of these defects/failures.
- Low oil level resulting in oil pressure that's low enough to prevent a perfectly functional tensioner from keeping proper tension on the chain.
I do not believe the chain itself was the weak link (pardon the pun), but since there is a newer (presumably updated) replacement part, I can't conclusively state that. Nor do I believe that the "adjustment unit, inlet camshaft" is part of the root cause, although anything in that path could conceivably be damaged if the chain lets go...
I've not heard of any after-market replacement parts that address this issue.
Of course, all of us on this forum are speculating (deducing, at best) what the root cause of these problems are; only MINI/BMW really knows the fundamental problem(s) with their design... And of course, they're not sharing...
#275
Does anyone make a dry-sump system for the Mini?
Maybe what we need is a system like this to insure the oil is: always there (no starvation), cooled to proper temperature (insuring proper pressure) and air free! (Short video there too):
http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...stem-explained
Check out the difference in oil foam in these videos. WOW! What a diference...
Videos are right below the first 3 photos, labeled:
Oil Separator Pump Benefits VIDEOS
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/LRDSUMP.html
Last edited by BlackIce; 01-14-2012 at 09:40 AM.