I have seen all the threads about this little engine making sounds like a diesel, rattling, etc..
I just wanted to make sure this is normal vvvv
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5uWMjEJlyg

 

Most definately not normal. the diesel/rattling sound some report is when it first starts up before oil pressure comes up full.

 

so, this is the sign of...???

 

Cant say for sure with out being there, but it sounds a lot like the chain tensioner is collapsed. In any case that would be the first thing I would check as it is pretty common. Stop driving / running the car and have a good MINI shop check it out for you.

 

Ive been driving with this noise for around 3,000 miles. It doesn't seem to be down on power. Is this an expensive ordeal? What else could it be?

 

If a chain tensioner has collapsed, do NOT drive it any more. You may have already chewed the hell out of part inside the engine and left lots of bits of metal floating around in your oil. And if it fails.....well, that could get REAL expensive real fast. And often, with these kinds of things, you won't notice a decrease in power until you have a catastrophic failure. Then the engine often stops suddenly, often with very expensive damage done.

And, if that happens, AND you're really lucky, it won't happen at the wrong time. Like at speed on the freeway and some large semi runs you over. Or when you're trying to cross a busy street or some railroad tracks and it fails at the wrong time and you're stuck out there and get taken out by a large truck, fast moving car, or even a train.

Don't fool with these things. You may think that the worst that could happen would be it would stop running. That's wrong thinking. Think of all the circumstances that you would be terrified to have the engine stop running in.

Now, go get it looked at by someone who knows what they're doing.

 

The R53 can run with the tensioner collapsed, but the free slack can break the chain guides, bind and bust up the oil pump or bind and break the chain. All of these can lead to even more engine damage.

It could very well be something else, but chain tensioner failure is one of the more common problems that you will run into on that engine and makes a sound very similar to the one in your video.

Its not that expensive to fix, especially in comparison to what else could go wrong if you don't fix it. It really only takes about 0.5 - 1.0 hour to check depending on how the tech goes about it. The part it self is about $50.00 if it does get changed. Some techs just popped it out. I like to replace them if they collapse since most have high mileage on them when they do this and it eliminates the chance for failure again if there is build up in the old one.

Since you drove for 3000 miles like this I would be inclined to check the chain guides too if the tensioner did fail. This should take a good tech about another 0.5-1.0 hour on top of the time to check the tensioner. The rails are like $35-45.00 each if they are bad.

I would also do an oil change and check the oil for metal.

 

just took it to a knowledgeable mini repair place, Bobs Tire and Auto. and was told supercharger needs to be replaced. They sell the supercharger for 1900, and 600 in labor and a $130 water pump. all installed for $2800. Is that high?

 

That's sounds about right. You might be able to get another shop to come down a little on labor and the SC, but not much really. If it's a good shop then it's fair price.

If you don't mind me asking what's the year and mileage of your MINI?

 

its a 2003 with 63,000 miles. But there is also the chance of rebuilding it. I called a company yesterday that has a 2 year warranty on all parts and have apparently better bearings/ gears that are stronger and its only $510 shipped and they send me one and then i can send them the core within a month. seems good to me

 

im knowledgeable in engine work, so i think i can do it myself. I have not found a DIY but i have rebuilt a few motors (small block chevys) but still know the workings of engine. hopefully the SC wont be too difficult. I heard front end/ radiator/ condensor needs to come off tho.

 

The SC failure makes more sense given the year and mileage. Not that unheard of for those early gen SC's to go. The rebuild is a good option provided it's from a company that knows what they are doing and does a thorough job.

I am not familiar with any online DIY for this job, but if your going to go down that road I would recommend getting a service manual from Bentley. You should be able figure it out with just that if you can't find a DIY write up. plus it's just a handy thing to have around any way

It's not a hard job, just takes a little time. I would say if your not familiar with it then make sure you can free up a whole day if not 2 so you can take your time with it and cover your butt in case something goes wrong.

The front end and radiator do need to come off, but the A/C condenser and compressor can hang to the driver side with out disconcerting any lines. Once that stuff is out of the way the entire area you will be working on is exposed.

Also if you can get a hold of one, the SST for removing the SC drive belt is going to make life a lot easier for you. Aside from that you can do the job with a fairly basic mechanics tool set, a torx bit set and a decent torque wrench.

Obviously you will need a couple bottles of coolant, and a bucket for the old stuff. There is no petcock and you need to drain the radiator by pulling the lines. Coolant is going to get every where unless the catch bucket is big, so it's sometimes better to get something like a large plastic storage bin that can cover most of the underside of the radiator. When your done make sure you give the coolant system a thorough bleed. Air likes to get trapped in these engines and can take some time to fully bleed out.

You should pick up the following parts too before starting since they need to or should be replaced.

11610020836 S/C intake gasket
11517509170 W/P connecting flange
11517520123 Water pump
17511520044 S/C charge pipe gasket up stream
17511524319 S/C charge pipe gasket down stream
11287545120 S/C drive belt

If you have time, check the oil pan gasket before you start. They tend to go bad at higher mileage and this is the best time to change it.

Other then that just follow the manual ,take your time and you should be good to go.

 

The manual calls for pulling the fuel rail and intake manifold to get the supercharger off. You don't need to do that. Put the car on jackstands, pull the bumper cover, bumper, crush tubes, tires, radiator and front end module (hang the condenser to the side), alternator, dip stick, intercooler, throttle housing (leave the hose and duct hooked to it...it's a pain but not that bad to get off), serpentine belt, and then the supercharger. Took me four hours taking my time to get the supercharger off and two hours to reinstall. The place you're talking about getting a supercharger from is where I had mine re-sealed and it's like new. Also got one for my daughter's MCS from them and no issues. PM me if you have any questions.

 

thanks for help. Pm'd you