Tonester, see the diagram above I posted with the parts. The return line #11 goes from the rack to the PS reservoir tank. The suction / supply ( straight piece ) goes from the pump to the PS reservoir tank # 1 in the diagram.

 

Does anyone have a photo of how the return line connection to the rack looks like?

 

I'm looking at maybe having to do this repair soon. For those who have done it, do you recommend replacing both hoses while you are in there?

I'm not sure I really want to tackle this, but the dealer quoted me $600 to fix it. Anyone know a mechanic in the SoCal area that is experienced in this repair that is good, as well as reasonable.

I'm doing a motor mount and belt this weekend. My first attempt of significant repair on our MINI. Last car I did any major work on was my daughters 69 VW. A little rusty.

Thanks.

*** UPDATE ***

The motor mount and belt replacement went very smoothly thanks to several threads her describing how to do the work. The only glitch I had was needing to replace two of the plastic screw/clips holding the fender liner in place. Had to make a trip to the dealer. At $0.66 each, I replaced all of them with new ones. Got to drool over the new roadster while I was there. . The Mrs wants one, but doesn't want to get rid of hers, so it looks like we wil bestow MINI family soon. We're going to order one set up the way we want it.

 

Hi,
Really need some help here!
Stuck on the final stages of a pump swap - I just can't get the suction/return hose to slide down far enough onto the pump's fitting.

Any tips - I've been pulling, pushing, applying power steering fluid as lube (eeek!) for ages now but it will only slide down about half way.

TIA

 

langdang - make sure you have the PS reservoir in place and its not too high mounted on the firewall bracket. Also that the PS reservoir is aligned to the hoses, like in the first pic. Is the pump in its correct location and orientation?
Try installing the hose to the pump first. Use the twist and rock method on the hose.



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hose-pics.html

Thanks

 

Reservoir wasn't moved during pump swap, but worth considering for anyone that did move the reservoir.

I took the pump off and left it a few days to source and install the reconditioned pump so maybe the hose has contracted a little. I've been advised to splay it out a little with a pliers opened inside the hose, and/or dunk it in a some hot water for a while.

I don't think I have enough length in the hose or enough space to manouevre to put the hose on first.

 

Are you on an original hose. Or did part of the end of the hose come off with the new pump, crumbled a little. Sounds like the new recon pump has a shorter neck or they used a pump end from another manufacturer ? Try the pump on the hose first, disconnect to the reservoir and see if there is enough length , otherwise get a new hose and try.

Thanks and good luck.

 

I see this question was asked a year ago but didn't see an answer. Is there a special tool or how are these clips closed on the hose? I haven't seen one like it before.

 

Yup, there's a special crimping tool but I don't have specifics on what one.



I believe they can be called Oetiker ear clamps (there are different varieties), hose clamps etc

 

If you drop your subframe doing these hoses is cake while you're in there.

 

How do you remove these clamps?

I noticed that my power steering fluid leaks all the way to the bottom of the reservoir, but can't really find the source of the leaks. I imagine it is these clamps... Will try to put a standard hose clamp on.

 

You can get them off with a adjustable slip joint pliers and lift up the tabs first. Or clip the top of with some snips and then replace them with new hardware that's in our kit.

 

Just completed this repair in about 3 hours. I found it easier with the driverside wheel off. That gave me more room to access the 22mm hollow bolt with extension and swivel tool. I bought the complete kit of both hoses, hollow bolt and o-rings.

 

Debi: Did you also remove the wheel liner? And when you installed the new hardware, did you use the Oetiker clamps included with the kit, or did you use conventional screw-type band clamps?

 

I have replaced both of my hoses. I did not remove the wheel liner, just the driver side tire.

 

I did not have to remove wheel liner, the swivel tool gave me enough room to access bolt with tire off. I replaced the clamps with conventional screw type clamps.

 

What's the trick to removing the return banjo bolt? Just use 1 universal swivel into a long extension? What size is it, 22mm? And what should it be torqued to?

 

Just saw this , from the linked thread " (because I took my time and had to make two runs to find the right sized socket (22mm), swivel adapter, and extension bar to access and remove the bolt). "

30 ft. lbs on the banjo bolt is what I have for reference.

 

I did this repair recently and I have a constant leak where the two hoses connect to the rack. I had a steering delte in for awhile and I assume I may have used one of the washers from that. I can't find what washers go where on those two hoses. Any help?

 

The washers for the banjo bolts? I got mine from MiniMania


NMK7677
NMK7675

 

I have the washers, I just don't know or remember the placement of them on the bolt. And I think I may have reused one from the steering delete I had. Size and placement of them is my concern. Thanks!

 

I was wondering how much fluid does it take?.. Just one container?

 

Washer on each end of the banjo.


One container should cover you on replacing both low pressure lines. I just did mine and I used maybe 1/2 a container of the CHF.

 

+1 Most use a can or under, dependent on how much fluid they extract.

 

thank you