OK, after two evenings of searching the forums, and many attempts at a "fix," I've seen a couple similar threads, but they didn't really come to a conclusion. So here's the details:

My daughter had spinal surgery back in Dec, so this last wkend we had to go back to Boston, MA for a follow up. I knew I needed new bearings in both Pass rear, and driver's front, so a buddy of ours offered to change 'em out while we were away. - btw, my R53 ran fine up to that point. He also did an oil change and topped off the tranny fluid while there. (nice of him)

When I get back, I hop in her since had to drive a Caravan for 4 days. She wouldn't start. Then the ignition lights stayed on. I noticed she was damp inside, which was no surprise considering it had been pouring here for days, and I haven't had a chance to pull off the inner A-Frames to check the drain tube(s) yet. (only had her since mid-winter, no need till now) So I push her into the garage, check over everything quick... engine bay, batty "dry," fuse boxes dry, etc...

She still won't start, but turns over, but then batty dies. Jump it to the van, STARTS RIGHT UP!!! "YESSS!!!" I think to myself... Take her for a short spin, seems "ok," but lil things odd... DSC won't toggle off (as I do every time I drive), Temp gage is reading neg of actual, clock goes on and off. I figure batty needs to charge, so let car run for a while.

When I go to shut-er-down, tunr key off, pull key out... car still running. Have to stall it to kill it. - dash / ignition lights still on.

Go to start again, will just turn over, almost like no spark? - friend shows up, we test that theory, yup.. no spark?!? I read about how "our cars will do funny things when batty low," and since I usually get a new one with any car I buy anyway, plus old one looks very old, go grab one. - no improvement.

Check all fuses in engine box and box under driver's dash. - all good. (lights do go off when pull F40 though) Check codes with reader, get P1607, P1612, P1613, & P1692. - research those, not much to go on.

Oh, also reset the ECU... no change.

So, given all those symptoms, ANY ideas??? Suggestions of any kind are more then welcome. I love driving her, but she sits dead (batty disconnected to save from dash lights draining her).

 

Sorry I don't have an answer but it sounds bad.

subscribed to find out what the final outcome will be.

 

I seem to recall something about when there is water in the cockpit that it may run down from the top somewheres, but as it runs down in may affect a control module (BCM?) in one of the kick panels.

If that's the case, it's not a good thing and usually requires a visit to the MINI service department.

Anyways, that's what I seem to recall.

Greatbear would know the answer I'm sure.

...Les

 

Thank you for the replies, even if only for sympathy...

...will go at it again tonight.

 

By my thoughts, I think the key here is "wet inside." The first three of the codes indicate problems with the communications buss that ties the various controllers together and lets them talk to one another. The ECU, BC1 (body control module), ABS/ASC/DSC module, the instrument cluster all communicate with one another through this interface.If the floor is wet on the right side front, and you have a sunroof that has leaky drain tubes or a leaky windshield, water will tend to run behind the A-pillar trim and alongside the dash and kick panel, which is an issue in itself, however, the body control module resides in the area behind the right front kick panel, and if it gets wet, you end up with some pretty serious trouble. Water will collect in two of the four large connectors and eventually start shorting things out. What needs to be done now is the battery disconnected and the kick panel trim removed to inspect the BC1 if that area is indeed wet. If so, most likely you have found the cause of your problems. There remains the repair of water damage to the module and wiring, of course, and I have lucked out in some cases by drying everything thoroughly, cleaning each and every connector pin and socket, and opening up the module itself to make sure no water crept inside. If you find lots of blackened or green corroded circuit board traces, it will more than likely require component replacement. Ironically, electronics such as these can get wet and not be damaged by the water, even for a relatively long period of exposure. The problems arise when the circuits are energized, the conductive water and resulting electrolysis shorts out and corrodes the wiring and components in short order, and you end up with a soggy mess of damaged parts.

Has the water leaking been an ongoing issue? I know examples of well-kept cars that live in garages or carports and never see bad weather driving, these can actually have leaks that never have the chance of water flowing through them. If the car is normally kept sheltered and experienced a good rainfall while being worked on, this can suddenly "show up" even though the potential was always there.

Keep us posted!

 

Thanks Greatbear for filling in the blanks of what I was trying to say!

....Les

p.s. Good to see you post.

 

Thank you Greatbear!! Excellent insight; and gives me a more specific direction as I lock myself in my garage this weekend.

As to the H2O issue, I agree. My R53 hadn't exhibited much of an interior moisture problem until now; however I have only had her since Jan, and it being upstate NY, everything has been frozen until recently. Add to that she is garaged every night, even when it has rained through late winter / early spring, she's been mostly dry. - even while parked at work. However with us away over last weekend, and it apparently pouring out over at least a couple days, now she's "wet" inside. (ironic that's not a good thing)

I noticed the sunroof seems to be ever so slightly not sitting flush when fully closed (per the switch), so may have to investigate that a little. And as mentioned before, I'm aware of having to check the drain tubes inside the A-Frame posts... - that interior piece just pops off right?

Either way, thanks again for the experience and knowledge conveyed.

 

Thanks to you also moreorless... nice referral to Mr. Greatbear.

 

I thought when the sunroof drains were plugged water ended up in the battery compartment in the trunk. Are there drains both front and rear?

 

Yes, drains front and rear. Front go down inside the A-pillar. If there were only drains in the rear and you parked on a down hill slope, where would the water drain?

 

Your welcome.

In my opinion, Greatbear, is one of the great (pardon the pun) intellectual resources for the Gen 1 MINIs.

....Les

 

I like to start simple

I have seen GEN1 MINIs due amazing things as the battery craps out. Many folks have posted unusual electrical performance that often goes away with a new battery.

It is either a small investment or a small engineering challege to run some temporary cables but I'd try to start and run the car off a GOOD - absolutely known good battery - NOT TESTED GOOD .... either brand spankin' new or out of another car. I've had a problem car's battery test good and the problems continue, and a new battery problems gone.

So much of these beasts is controlled thru the computer and computers do NOT react well to voltage that's 'almost there'.

checking for dampness in the GCU in the pass' side footwell is where I'd go next but I'd jumper in a good battery and see if everything works right first. Yes OP jumped the car then ran it and had problems .... once he disconnected the good battery following the jump a window of opportunity for problem was reopened in terms of the potentially bad battery.

Like I said, I've seen these things get very flakey with a bad battery in the loop . . .

 

Good call, and good omission by myself that I neglected to include I did purchase a new batty also. - as I usually do when picking up a vehicle anyway. My .02 is, always a good idea in CNY. Plus when I looked at the old one, looked to be a few years old.

Still great advice though, and thank you for the post!

 

sorry it didn't result in a quick and easy fix . . .

 

OK, 1st of all sorry for not following up earlier, however like all of us I'm sure, it's been a friggin busy cpl weeks. 2nd, wanted to give it a cpl days just to make sure all was indeed well again... which it is I'm happy to report!!!

Here's the deal, ended up being A LOT more simple and less expensive that I was dreading it would be. The moisture was a factor of course. And yes, the Sunroof draintube (driver's side) was off the nipple. - lil "can't see" tie-wrap surgery, leak all fixed.

As for the electrical side... Talked to a Mini Serv Manager out in Buff NY and he said that he's seen where the "42 PIN Connector" behind the driver's kick plate can get moisture in it and corrode, causing issues similar to what I had. Off I go to check it out...

Apparently so much rain fell while we were away, that even after all the heaters and fans I had blowing under the steering wheel for a week, once I removed the piece next to driver's seat and kick plate, (all one piece) pulled up the foam/styrofoam floorboard, there was (no kidding) a good 1/4" of water under there!! After soaking all that up, found the connector. It does sit right down low on the floor board, so it was soaked, and did already have some bad corrosion started.

Dried everything out, cleaned the pins w/ elec contact cleaner, and scrapped 'em down the best I could. Used some dielectric grease, and reconnected. (after 3 or 4 rounds of scraping, cleaner, etc) Let dry overnight.

Said a few prayers, reconnected, hooked batty back up.... "She's Alive!!!"

No gages lit while no key, and all seemed well. Key in, 1st notch all good, 2nd = fine, Start up... runs great. At first the gages were a little off still, so I reset the CPU again. Things a little better, but figured there was a "learning curve" for a little bit, and was right. Over the past cpl days, things have been getting back to normal. Only thing off still is the temp gage, but even that comes around after about 5 min of driving.

So once again, THANK YOU to everyone who offered advice and help, greatly appreciated. I hope this lil experience may help someone else in the future also?!

Gawd I missed driving her... havin a blast now again!

 

I much appreciate your follow up in the solution you found... I am one of the those who started a thread discussing my problem but have not found the solution yet.

I guess I'll be trying the fixes you mentioned this weekend to see if it helps my 05 as well. It makes me real nervous when my car won't start when I'm away from home, until the umpteenth try and it finally lights!!!!

I was driving home the other day at 70mph and the car switched off, then on again about 3 seconds later, then the wiper flicked, then all back off about 5 seconds later, and finally all back on as I came to a tire screeching halt - got the pulse going that's for sure.

Regards,
John

 

might be time to trade it in on a new one

 

B!UE I just wanted to say thank you soon much....I was having the exact same issue and was stumped until I found this forum....you saved me hundreds of dollars and tons of time....I just got my mini as well, my first spring with her. I love the car. I won't buy another type of car.

 

no problem icecreamcooper... glad to be a part of the circle of NAM knowledge!

 

I'm having the same problem with my 06 s I've done everything but change the battery so I hope this post helps

 

Hope so too r53stance...

I updated to an 09 R56 since, but still miss the more raw feel of the R53. Great lil runner. - might throw a serp belt on her and fire 'er back up if it ever stops snowin up here!

 

If it's having the weird electrical issues check B!UE's post, I also had corrosion, however I had to splice a wire due to excess corrosion that would have otherwise required me to purchase a new 44 pin connector. Ensure we everything is dry, fix the grain rice in your sunroof, or wherever else the water leaked in and your should be golden.

 

I'm from buffalo this winter killed my car I've already changed the belt the plugs wires reverse switch alternator cleaned up the 42 pin connector put some dielectric grease cleaned the corrosion and when I plug the same battery in the dash lights come on with no key in the ignition but the car starts fine sometimes but won't shut off

 

I don't have a sunroof

 

Just my .02 ...but if still getting some voltage leak with no key in ignition, you still have an issue in that connector. (or somewhere else I'm unaware of) But based on my experience, seems most likely. Or what was causing the problem, the leak, is not fully resolve either? That front A-Frame post drain tube is where mine was disconnected. (had nothing to do with the sunroof) I'm sure you did, but if not, make sure the rubber hose at the top (under the plastic trim) is connected to the plastic nipple inside. If you look right above the drivers door above the A-Frame, you'll see the tiny drain hole where water trapped by the 'ingenious' drip edge drains... Right under that hole is where you want to get to. If that IS connected, then I would personally go back to work on that 42 pin connector. I literally spent a couple days cleaning, drying... Then re-cleaning & re-drying that damn thing over & over. Sucks, but much better then buying / or paying to have a new one installed. - worth a shot in my opinion...

But there's a lot of experience on NAM... maybe someone has something better?! Either way, hope the best for ya man... And yes, Upstate NY has been HARSH on all our rides!