I have an '04 MCS, stock brakes, suspension, etc. 83k miles.

When I tap the brakes, the steering wheel jerks to the right depending on how hard I hit the brakes. This happens at all speeds, slow or fast, and after the jerk the car brakes normally - e.g. it doesn't pull to one side or the other. It doesn't always do this, but is about 6 out of 10 times.

Do Mini Coopers have any known problems concerning this, or should I look at the usual culprits like caliper sliders and brake lines? I searched and couldn't find anything on here.

 

Your front lower control arm bushings need replaced.

 

On which side? And is that something that would happen suddenly, or get worse over time? This started happening yesterday without warning, with the same consistency.

Also, steering is very tight with no looseness in the front at all.

 

Ding Ding

 

Can't say which side, since the bushings wear out unpredictably. But if yours are original, they are in need of replacement; trust me on that. Mine were way past their due date by 70k.

 

Oh *****.

I suppose I should save up for everything, including a bigger anti sway bar and do it at the same time.

Do I really have to drop the subframe, can it be done on jack stands and will I need an alignment afterward?

 

I agree that the bushings are almost certainly in need of replacement. Go with polyurethanes- it's worth it. It's also worth checking the normal stuff, too, while you are in there: brake pads, possible sticking caliper, even tire pressures. I once had the symptoms you described (not on a MINI), and the cause was an internally-collapsed brake hose. $ 12 later it was good as new.
Just saying...

 

You do have to lower the subframe in order to get to the mounting bolts, but you can do it on jack stands - just don't put the jackstands under the subframe!

I've done two sets for KC Club member's cars. They're not fun, but not impossible either. Both cars I did were '03 S models, one had 150K and the other only 45K - both were shot, but the 150K ones were far worse.....

Both driver's reported extreme improvement in how the car drove once they were replaced, and the 150K mile car was having the braking issue you describe too. You should definitely have an alignment done after you replace them.

I doubt you need a bigger front anti-sway bar, most people opt for a larger rear bar....new bushings for it while you're in there are a good idea tho......

 

Hey Dave, thanks for the reply! I have a friend that's an import mechanic who will help me for fairly cheap. Does a larger front sway bar really not make much of a difference on these cars?

I will most likely go with the powerflex bushings; opinion on those?

 

I noticed earlier that the steering wheel also jerks when accelerating or letting off. Would those bushings cause that as well?

 

+1

 

Go through all the suspension bits. And don't just replace one side. If one side is gone, the other is nearly gone. Save time and money in the long run and replace both sides.

 

My two friends used Powerflex in their cars, both seem happy with the results so far.

Most people find that a front wheel drive car understeers, putting a larger front bar on will make this worse. It seems counterintuitive I know, but a larger rear bar will make the front end bite better. However, if you get carried away with the rear stiffness, you'll make the back end loose.

I was suggesting that if you replace the lower control arm bushings, you go ahead and replace the front sway bar bushings too, as you'll be working right in the same area, and they wear also.

 

My MINI is the one with 150k that MINIdave helped with. Although the steering while braking has improved it is still very much there. I suspect something else is to blame. I am replacing shocks and struts within the next few weeks and if that doesn't help then I'm lost.

My steering wheel doesn't only jerk when braking but also accelerating and also just cruising down the road. The only way I can explain is the wheels jerk one way so i have to correct the steering wheel and then randomly they'll jerk back the other way and the steering wheel is straight again. I can't make it repeat, it does it randomly but it's a real PITA and certainly not safe either.

 

I had this issue on my 145k mile MCS and just this past week dropped the subframe to replace everything- might as well do it all while you have it down. Hopefully I'll have a write-up done in the next few days, but there are other write-ups on the forums you can use as well.

 

What do you mean by "everything"?

 

Anything that was replaceable on the subframe with the exception of the tie rods.

I replaced:

-Inner Ball Joints
-Outer Ball Joints
-Control Arm Bushings (Powerflex)
-SwayBar Bushings (Powerflex)
-Steering Rack Bushing (Powerflex)

 

The only one of those i replaced is the control arm bushings, the ball joints seemed fine, but I am wondering if replacing the steering rack bushing would make a difference. I already have sway bushings I just need to install them.

 

Boy, it sounds more and more like the rack or the rack bushings/mounts. One other thought: check the U-joint from the steering column to the rack; both the joint itself and its "clamp" on the post sticking up out of the rack. Don't drive it until you can sort this out!

 

I checked the rack and all the connections to the rack and they look fine.

Another thing i forgot to mention, The DSC light comes on a lot, sometimes even when making a lane change on the highway but it can be triggered by letting off the gas in a long right turn, it doesnt seem to do it on left turns or sharp turns and it won't turn off until I'm out of the turn or slow down.
Could bad sway bar bushings cause this or bad shocks? I believe both are original w/ 156k miles

If either of these is the problem I will know very soon as I am replacing them within the next week hopefully.

 

I don't have Dynamic Stability Control= but doesn't it do its thing by applying braking pressure to individual wheels? That might explain everything!

 

Yes that's what it does and it seems to be applying to the front driver side wheel. But it has to sense something is going wrong before it does that so maybe if the strut is bad enough then when I let off the gas in a right turn then it senses too much movement and applies DSC braking.