A/C issue
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Joined: Jul 2007
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A/C issue
Our '04 Cooper's A/C stopped working the other day - today's the first chance I really got to look at it.
Fuses and relay all check out OK. I switched relays and popped the cover off, watching the points make contact after turning the A/C switch on.
Refrigerant pressure is about 100PSI. No evidence of any leaks, and sniffed around all the lines and fittings with a Tek-Mate leak detector.
My thinking is either a bad connection at the compressor, or a faulty pressure switch. I can't reach the plug at the compressor to test power there. I can see it (barely) and reach it with a long screwdriver to wiggle it. It looks like the only way to unplug it is to unbolt the compressor from the engine. I think the way to go would be to figure out where the presure switches are and determine if they're good before unbolting the compressor.
Does anybody here know where the pressure switches are, or if there's something I'm missing?
Fuses and relay all check out OK. I switched relays and popped the cover off, watching the points make contact after turning the A/C switch on.
Refrigerant pressure is about 100PSI. No evidence of any leaks, and sniffed around all the lines and fittings with a Tek-Mate leak detector.
My thinking is either a bad connection at the compressor, or a faulty pressure switch. I can't reach the plug at the compressor to test power there. I can see it (barely) and reach it with a long screwdriver to wiggle it. It looks like the only way to unplug it is to unbolt the compressor from the engine. I think the way to go would be to figure out where the presure switches are and determine if they're good before unbolting the compressor.
Does anybody here know where the pressure switches are, or if there's something I'm missing?
Not a simple of inexpensive fix.
Rich
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Neutral
Joined: Jul 2007
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Followup:
I found a service manual and went through the HVAC overview. The system (IHKA) has an on-board diagnosis and will display any fault codes, will re-calibrate temperature and air distribution control, and can be run in full manual mode to check each component's functioning.
I'll run through it tomorrow.
If I have to replace the compressor, it means removing the bumper cover, evaporator and radiator to access the compressor.
I found a service manual and went through the HVAC overview. The system (IHKA) has an on-board diagnosis and will display any fault codes, will re-calibrate temperature and air distribution control, and can be run in full manual mode to check each component's functioning.
I'll run through it tomorrow.
If I have to replace the compressor, it means removing the bumper cover, evaporator and radiator to access the compressor.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 147
Likes: 1
Followup:
I found a service manual and went through the HVAC overview. The system (IHKA) has an on-board diagnosis and will display any fault codes, will re-calibrate temperature and air distribution control, and can be run in full manual mode to check each component's functioning.
I'll run through it tomorrow.
If I have to replace the compressor, it means removing the bumper cover, evaporator and radiator to access the compressor.
I found a service manual and went through the HVAC overview. The system (IHKA) has an on-board diagnosis and will display any fault codes, will re-calibrate temperature and air distribution control, and can be run in full manual mode to check each component's functioning.
I'll run through it tomorrow.
If I have to replace the compressor, it means removing the bumper cover, evaporator and radiator to access the compressor.
Will order my Fan replacement this weekend just in case.
Cheers!
RayanMX
I too have this A/C problem, so I went through the diagnostics and recalibration described in the Service Manual under HVAC and found everything to be OK with the IHKA system, but I bet that that low speed fan is the culprit (the diagnostic does not check fan operation).
Will order my Fan replacement this weekend just in case.
Cheers!
RayanMX
Will order my Fan replacement this weekend just in case.
Cheers!
RayanMX
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 147
Likes: 1
But here's the information to enter diagnostic mode on the A/C
MODS: Not sure if it's ok to post this information, so feel free to edit the information if needed!
__________________________________________________ _______
Fig. 35: IHKA Compressor Control Communication Diagram
Courtesy of BMW OF NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Compressor Cut-out Criteria
For both versions of air conditioning the following conditions will suspend the operation of the compressor:
- Full-load acceleration
- Engine coolant temperature > 118°C (244°F)
- Engine speed > 6016 rpm
- Engine speed < 500 rpm
- Evaporator temperature < 2°C (36°F)
- Refrigerant pressure < 1.6 bar / > 30 bar (23 - 435 psi)
The on board diagnostics function is a special feature of the IHKA that provides three test modes:
- Mode 1 - Read fault memory
- Mode 2 - Calibration run
- Mode 3 - Manual check of functions
To select mode 2 or 3 it is necessary to press the OFF button, the second or third streamer bar illuminating will indicate the relevant mode to the Technician depending on how many times the OFF button is pressed. To access the mode the AUTO button must be pressed.
To exit the on board diagnosis mode the ignition must be switched to the off position.
Mode 1: Read Fault Memory
The IHKA fault memory is read and displayed in the central display panel. If no faults are present 00 is displayed and if a fault is stored FF followed by a code number is displayed. This display flashes at 0.5 Hz.
Mode 2: Calibration Run
The objective of the calibration procedure is to correct the position drift of the servomotors for temperature and air distribution control. During a calibration run:
- Both servomotors are driven to their two end positions and the new values stored in the IHKA EEPROM.
- All LED's activated simultaneously.
- Blower streamer bars individually illuminated.
- CA flashes in the central display panel at 0.5 Hz.
There are three possible operating statuses shown in the central display:
- CA = Calibration Active
- CC = Calibration Complete
- FF = Fault
01 Solar sensor fault
02 Interior temperature sensor fault
03 Heater core temperature sensor fault
04 Air distribution servomotor feedback fault
05 Blend flap servomotor feedback fault
06 Blower switch minus fault
07 Blower switch plus fault
08 Interior sensor fan fault
09 Air distribution servomotor fault
10 Blend flap servomotor fault
Mode 3: Manual Mode
In this mode blower, air distribution, recirculation, heated screens, air conditioning ON/OFF and temperature
are manually controlled.
__________________________________________________ _________
Regards,
RayanMX
To access the on board diagnosis function the OFF button and the blower PLUS switch must be pressed simultaneously for approximately two seconds with the ignition in position 2. The central display panel will show a single "streamer bar" to represent mode 1 - Read fault memory. To access mode 1 the AUTO button must be pressed.
Do you also have a list of error codes?
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 147
Likes: 1
The diagnistic mode described above is for automatic a/c only (IHKA), maybe you don't have auto a/c?
On auto a/c the off button is the first rocker button on the top left. And you have to press either - or + together with off.
The error codes are included on the instructions above.
Regards,
Rayanmx
I think 'off' is attained by pressing the Auto side of the button when it is on. (sounds goofy, doesn't it!)
Turning off the AC does just that. I usually run my car in Auto mode with the AC off.
Turning off the AC does just that. I usually run my car in Auto mode with the AC off.
Thread Starter
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Neutral
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
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Update:
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but work has been crazy.
Decided it had to be the clutch, as the relay for the compressor would kick in, but the compressor would not.
I ordered a rebuilt compressor online from a company out of AZ, called TechChoice Automotive. It was about $240 with shipping.
Compressor changeout was only a minor PITA. Even though you have to remove the front bumper, condensor and radiator, it was only about 2-1/2 hours from start to charge-up.
I used the opportunity to flush the cooling system, and changed the o-rings on the compressor and condensor with new A/C-grade o-rings.
I happen to have a vacuum pump, so pumped down the system for a good 1/2 hour, then let it sit for 15-20 minutes to verify there were no leaks. Vacuum stayed steady at -30 psi, so I installed 1 can of oil/R134 charge and 2 cans of straight 134. This gave me a full charge.
Cars been running fine and the A/C is back to normal.
Total cost was about $280 (compressor, oil, freon, o-rings, and anti-freeze) and took a Saturday afternoon.
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but work has been crazy.
Decided it had to be the clutch, as the relay for the compressor would kick in, but the compressor would not.
I ordered a rebuilt compressor online from a company out of AZ, called TechChoice Automotive. It was about $240 with shipping.
Compressor changeout was only a minor PITA. Even though you have to remove the front bumper, condensor and radiator, it was only about 2-1/2 hours from start to charge-up.
I used the opportunity to flush the cooling system, and changed the o-rings on the compressor and condensor with new A/C-grade o-rings.
I happen to have a vacuum pump, so pumped down the system for a good 1/2 hour, then let it sit for 15-20 minutes to verify there were no leaks. Vacuum stayed steady at -30 psi, so I installed 1 can of oil/R134 charge and 2 cans of straight 134. This gave me a full charge.
Cars been running fine and the A/C is back to normal.
Total cost was about $280 (compressor, oil, freon, o-rings, and anti-freeze) and took a Saturday afternoon.
IHKA diagnosis for later models
1. Turn ignition key to position 2.
2. Turn on AC by pressing * (snowflake).
3. To access the On Board Diagnosis, press and hold the * button and + button simultaneously for 2 seconds. The display will show Mode 1 with a single bar (\). Press the AUTO button again to scroll to Mode 2 (\\) and Mode 3 (\\\).
4. To start the test in each mode, press the * button.
5. To exit, turn ignition key to OFF.
IHKA Fault Codes and Fault Description are described in Post 8.
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Myrtle Beach
A/C faults now, what do you do?
Ok,
I have gone through the different modes on the A/C
When i ran the calibration mode the A/C servos went through their cycles and then all the lights on the A/C all light up at once, then go out totally, then a FF FF 01 01 fault code repeats over and over, i have tried to turn the key off etc.. But everytime i turn it to position #2 it goes right back into the calibration mode, runs through, then blinks all the lights on, then off, the the Ff 01 01 code
I get no response from any of the A/C control buttons.
I know the 01 fault is the solar sensor
Can anyone tell me either
A.) How to erase the code?
B.) Get it out of this mode? Turning the key off isn't working.
c.) reset the fault code ?
Any help on this would be really great.
Thanks,
Kongfish
I have gone through the different modes on the A/C
When i ran the calibration mode the A/C servos went through their cycles and then all the lights on the A/C all light up at once, then go out totally, then a FF FF 01 01 fault code repeats over and over, i have tried to turn the key off etc.. But everytime i turn it to position #2 it goes right back into the calibration mode, runs through, then blinks all the lights on, then off, the the Ff 01 01 code
I get no response from any of the A/C control buttons.
I know the 01 fault is the solar sensor
Can anyone tell me either
A.) How to erase the code?
B.) Get it out of this mode? Turning the key off isn't working.
c.) reset the fault code ?
Any help on this would be really great.
Thanks,
Kongfish
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Have had exactly the same issue! The system is not able to finish its calibrationrun because one of the servomotors is blocked somehow.
in my case it was the servo beneath the radio, in front, itself but it's also possible that something is blocking the connected valves and the servomotor cannot complete it's movement.
It deffinately is not the solarsensor. They never break.
Took me some time to locate the cause but the fix was easy!
in my case it was the servo beneath the radio, in front, itself but it's also possible that something is blocking the connected valves and the servomotor cannot complete it's movement.
It deffinately is not the solarsensor. They never break.
Took me some time to locate the cause but the fix was easy!
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Somebody posted the PDF Service Manuals, not sure if they're Bentley's or TIS. But here's the information to enter diagnostic mode on the A/C MODS: Not sure if it's ok to post this information, so feel free to edit the information if needed! __________________________________________________ _______ Fig. 35: IHKA Compressor Control Communication Diagram Courtesy of BMW OF NORTH AMERICA, INC. Compressor Cut-out Criteria For both versions of air conditioning the following conditions will suspend the operation of the compressor:[*] Full-load acceleration[*] Engine coolant temperature > 118°C (244°F)[*] Engine speed > 6016 rpm[*] Engine speed < 500 rpm[*] Evaporator temperature < 2°C (36°F)[*] Refrigerant pressure < 1.6 bar / > 30 bar (23 - 435 psi) IHKA On Board Diagnosis The on board diagnostics function is a special feature of the IHKA that provides three test modes:[*] Mode 1 - Read fault memory[*] Mode 2 - Calibration run[*] Mode 3 - Manual check of functions To access the on board diagnosis function the OFF button and the blower PLUS switch must be pressed simultaneously for approximately two seconds with the ignition in position 2. The central display panel will show a single "streamer bar" to represent mode 1 - Read fault memory. To access mode 1 the AUTO button must be pressed. To select mode 2 or 3 it is necessary to press the OFF button, the second or third streamer bar illuminating will indicate the relevant mode to the Technician depending on how many times the OFF button is pressed. To access the mode the AUTO button must be pressed. To exit the on board diagnosis mode the ignition must be switched to the off position. Mode 1: Read Fault Memory The IHKA fault memory is read and displayed in the central display panel. If no faults are present 00 is displayed and if a fault is stored FF followed by a code number is displayed. This display flashes at 0.5 Hz. Mode 2: Calibration Run The objective of the calibration procedure is to correct the position drift of the servomotors for temperature and air distribution control. During a calibration run:[*] Both servomotors are driven to their two end positions and the new values stored in the IHKA EEPROM.[*]All LED's activated simultaneously.[*]Blower streamer bars individually illuminated.[*]CA flashes in the central display panel at 0.5 Hz. IHKA FAULT CODES There are three possible operating statuses shown in the central display:[*]CA = Calibration Active[*]CC = Calibration Complete[*]FF = Fault Code Description 01 Solar sensor fault 02 Interior temperature sensor fault 03 Heater core temperature sensor fault 04 Air distribution servomotor feedback fault 05 Blend flap servomotor feedback fault 06 Blower switch minus fault 07 Blower switch plus fault 08 Interior sensor fan fault 09 Air distribution servomotor fault 10 Blend flap servomotor fault Mode 3: Manual Mode In this mode blower, air distribution, recirculation, heated screens, air conditioning ON/OFF and temperature are manually controlled. __________________________________________________ _________ Regards, RayanMX
I'm having trouble doing diagnostics in my 03. What is the "+" button and the off button?
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
if you don't get it, you'll probably don't have an automatic a/c but a manual one, with the three round *****.
but for the record:
- the plus is the blower button where there comes more air and noise from your vents.
- the off-button is the button right next to the one saying auto.
but for the record:
- the plus is the blower button where there comes more air and noise from your vents.
- the off-button is the button right next to the one saying auto.
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 13
From: Makakilo,Hawaii
A/C oil leak underneath the clutch
While removing my 02 MCS supercharger for oil inspection on the supercharger and water pump due to overherheating issue i discovered oil underneath the clutch, i wiped it off and several days later still evidence of oil looks like an A/C oil lubricant,
My question is since my car is all apart is it advisable to replace the Compressor now or wait? I know once the oil leak its guaranty i had a refrigerant leak also.
Thank you any advice are greatly appreciated
My question is since my car is all apart is it advisable to replace the Compressor now or wait? I know once the oil leak its guaranty i had a refrigerant leak also.
Thank you any advice are greatly appreciated
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 13
From: Makakilo,Hawaii
A/C oil leak underneath the clutch
While removing my 02 MCS supercharger for oil inspection on the supercharger and water pump due to overherheating issue i discovered oil underneath the clutch, i wiped it off and several days later still evidence of oil looks like an A/C oil lubricant,
My question is since my car is all apart is it advisable to replace the Compressor now or wait? I know once the oil leak its guaranty i had a refrigerant leak also.
Thank you any advice are greatly appreciated
My question is since my car is all apart is it advisable to replace the Compressor now or wait? I know once the oil leak its guaranty i had a refrigerant leak also.
Thank you any advice are greatly appreciated
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 295
Likes: 13
From: Makakilo,Hawaii
Compressor oil
Update:
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but work has been crazy.
Decided it had to be the clutch, as the relay for the compressor would kick in, but the compressor would not.
I ordered a rebuilt compressor online from a company out of AZ, called TechChoice Automotive. It was about $240 with shipping.
Compressor changeout was only a minor PITA. Even though you have to remove the front bumper, condensor and radiator, it was only about 2-1/2 hours from start to charge-up.
I used the opportunity to flush the cooling system, and changed the o-rings on the compressor and condensor with new A/C-grade o-rings.
I happen to have a vacuum pump, so pumped down the system for a good 1/2 hour, then let it sit for 15-20 minutes to verify there were no leaks. Vacuum stayed steady at -30 psi, so I installed 1 can of oil/R134 charge and 2 cans of straight 134. This gave me a full charge.
Cars been running fine and the A/C is back to normal.
Total cost was about $280 (compressor, oil, freon, o-rings, and anti-freeze) and took a Saturday afternoon.
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but work has been crazy.
Decided it had to be the clutch, as the relay for the compressor would kick in, but the compressor would not.
I ordered a rebuilt compressor online from a company out of AZ, called TechChoice Automotive. It was about $240 with shipping.
Compressor changeout was only a minor PITA. Even though you have to remove the front bumper, condensor and radiator, it was only about 2-1/2 hours from start to charge-up.
I used the opportunity to flush the cooling system, and changed the o-rings on the compressor and condensor with new A/C-grade o-rings.
I happen to have a vacuum pump, so pumped down the system for a good 1/2 hour, then let it sit for 15-20 minutes to verify there were no leaks. Vacuum stayed steady at -30 psi, so I installed 1 can of oil/R134 charge and 2 cans of straight 134. This gave me a full charge.
Cars been running fine and the A/C is back to normal.
Total cost was about $280 (compressor, oil, freon, o-rings, and anti-freeze) and took a Saturday afternoon.
Im going to replace the compressor i bought the Pag oil but not sure how much i needed,
I need help.
Thank you
Last edited by drea-min; May 21, 2014 at 03:06 PM.
