Fan, STDs and brakes - shade tree notes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,382
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
Fan, STDs and brakes - shade tree notes
Did a bunch of maintenance/repair work this weekend.
Fan - Low speed radiator fan died at some point - installed a new one from autopartsavenue (via ebay) - $89 shipped. Mfg was Depo, made in taiwan. Looks identical to OEM save a metallic backing on the fan motor vs. plastic on the OEM. Didn't ship until 5 days after order.
My notes:
-GERLDOC's writeup was awesome. I was nervous about taking so much stuff apart, but it's not that big a deal.
-My local store only had M8x90 vs. M8x100 - they worked fine.
-If you remove the upper rad hose from the radiator and stuff a rag in the rad (bungee hose to bonnet), it won't drip much, and will allow the rad to be pulled well forward to facilitate removal of the fan assembly.
-I recommend loose fitting everything in the MFE, and not tightening until the bumper screws (two in front) have been fitted (without bumper.) Mine were slightly out of alignment, so I had to loosen the bumper support and crush tubes to get it all to line up.
STDs (Craven strut protectors) - Both of my towers had mushroomed. I used the BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer) on the passenger side, and initially just bolted down the (wobbly fitting) STD on the driver's side. I then reconsidered and beat on
the driver's side until the STD laid flat, then rebolted. I feel better now.
Brakes -
Pads - Swapped to Hawk ceramics. Fairly standard job. Only 'DOH!' was not recognizing how the wear indicator fit into the pad. Scratch one brake pad indicator. Not a big deal, but
. The right rear was really hard to remove from the rotor - big ridge on it. Can't think of a better way than wiggling, as the rears require turning while retracting.
I didn't have the 'special tool' for the rears, but a pair of needle nose pliers worked fine to retract them while turning clockwise.
Brake flush - I used the helper method. Would recommend a pressure bleeder. The reservoir seems quite small. I couldn't seem to get the screen out of the top of the reservoir.
Clutch flush - I looked at k-huevo's writeup, but wasn't able to comfortably get a wood block to keep the slave cylinder compressed. Anyone have any success with that method? Should I spring for the special tool?
Fan - Low speed radiator fan died at some point - installed a new one from autopartsavenue (via ebay) - $89 shipped. Mfg was Depo, made in taiwan. Looks identical to OEM save a metallic backing on the fan motor vs. plastic on the OEM. Didn't ship until 5 days after order.
My notes:
-GERLDOC's writeup was awesome. I was nervous about taking so much stuff apart, but it's not that big a deal.
-My local store only had M8x90 vs. M8x100 - they worked fine.
-If you remove the upper rad hose from the radiator and stuff a rag in the rad (bungee hose to bonnet), it won't drip much, and will allow the rad to be pulled well forward to facilitate removal of the fan assembly.
-I recommend loose fitting everything in the MFE, and not tightening until the bumper screws (two in front) have been fitted (without bumper.) Mine were slightly out of alignment, so I had to loosen the bumper support and crush tubes to get it all to line up.
STDs (Craven strut protectors) - Both of my towers had mushroomed. I used the BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer) on the passenger side, and initially just bolted down the (wobbly fitting) STD on the driver's side. I then reconsidered and beat on
the driver's side until the STD laid flat, then rebolted. I feel better now.Brakes -
Pads - Swapped to Hawk ceramics. Fairly standard job. Only 'DOH!' was not recognizing how the wear indicator fit into the pad. Scratch one brake pad indicator. Not a big deal, but
. The right rear was really hard to remove from the rotor - big ridge on it. Can't think of a better way than wiggling, as the rears require turning while retracting.I didn't have the 'special tool' for the rears, but a pair of needle nose pliers worked fine to retract them while turning clockwise.
Brake flush - I used the helper method. Would recommend a pressure bleeder. The reservoir seems quite small. I couldn't seem to get the screen out of the top of the reservoir
.Clutch flush - I looked at k-huevo's writeup, but wasn't able to comfortably get a wood block to keep the slave cylinder compressed. Anyone have any success with that method? Should I spring for the special tool?
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