hesitation when it comes to acceleration
#1
hesitation when it comes to acceleration
I recently bought my 1st mini cooper, its a 2006, has everything I could ask for, for being my first. But I do have a bit of concern and just wondering if this is how the mini runs, or if anyone else is having the same issue and if there is a resolution. I notice when I accelerate, my mini kind of stalls for a couple seconds. To be specific, its when I am at a complete stop and I try to make a right turn or a left turn, it hesitates/stalls for about 1-2 seconds. Its kind of nerve wrecking when I am turning out into traffic......has anyone had this experience with theirs? I love my mini...and love seeing minis on the road..this is the only issue i have with my mini.I am a proud new owner though thats for sure! please someone let me know any advice will help and I greatly appreciate it.
K
K
#2
1 - 2 seconds is a little long, but yes R53s to have an acceleration hesitation. Most who are bugged by it either get a tune or a Sprint Booster.
If it really is 1 - 2 seconds you may have a problem other than the normal hesitation. My R53 has the hesitation but not even a full second. It may feel like more when I want to accelerate but it is probably more on the line of 1/2 second.
If it really is 1 - 2 seconds you may have a problem other than the normal hesitation. My R53 has the hesitation but not even a full second. It may feel like more when I want to accelerate but it is probably more on the line of 1/2 second.
#3
Could just be the Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) kicking in when the tires break loose a little (if your car is equiped with DSC). There should be a DSC switch on your switch panel. Try turning the DSC off (DSC light will come on in the instrument panel to tell you the DSC has been turned off). The DSC is automattically turned on every time you start the car so you will need to turn it off each time. Drive with the DSC turned off to see if that makes a difference.
#4
As a new MINI owner, you may just need to get used to how the clutch is engaged. The engine has a very low amount of torque at idle, and this requires a bit more RPM before letting out the clutch. This does take some getting used to. Try giving it about 2000 RPM and see how it helps.
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.
#5
Mine was doing the same thing and ended up being the Spark Plug Wires of all things. Start with the simple things and go from there. I bought mine from a BMW Dealer and they said that "It has gone through a complete inspection" Well........ The air filter was filthy and the plugwires were shot. Change the oil, spark plugs and wires, and do the air filter, drive it and see if it fixes your problem. Worst case scenario, at least you know these things are good for a while.
#6
#7
Our S has the same thing going. Hot temperatures, humidity, A/C on plus low revs on a 1.6 liter motor that doesn't turn a whole lot of torque to begin with and I think it is to be expected. That being said I will check the plugs and wires just to be sure and we are due for a belt change as well. Heck, even my 2.5liter Subaru runs on the slow side at low revs and out of boost.
If you would be getting misfires bad enough to cause the engine to hesitate, wouldn't that trigger a CEL?
If you would be getting misfires bad enough to cause the engine to hesitate, wouldn't that trigger a CEL?
Trending Topics
#8
#13
I just replaced my fuel filter, and that issue is now gone - and the car has a LOT more power at low RPMs too! Replacing the fuel filter is a breeze - search for the DIY...A lot of people say it's difficult, but if you know how to use leverage and work carefully it's actually pretty easy.
#14
#15
Accelerator quits working at highway speed
2005 MSC - All Stock
Drove from Dallas to Winter Park for MITM last week. Fun time!
BUT had a problem on the way. Had been on the road about 5 hours from Amarillo to Pueblo. Suddenly on I25 driving 65-70, not on cruise control, the accelerator goes dead, and I'm losing speed. I pump it a couple of times... nothing. I really stomp it and the transmission down shifts, the engine races and I have acceleration again. Then it happens again maybe 15 seconds later. This goes on until I can get off the road to Denny's. While in park, I give it gas and it backfires.
So we go in,wait for the food for 40 minutes, eat for 20 so a total hour wait.
I thought, "Bad Gas", since I filled up in Dalhart at Valero which only had 90 octane. So, I filled up with 91 octane at a Shell in Pueblo. Took about half a tank.
Took it easy and it was fine till just before we exited I-70 to Hwy 40 heading to Winter Park. I70 is pretty steep from Denver into the mountains, so it was pushing hard. Stopped at the hippie gas station in Empire and filled up with 91 oct. At this point, seems like the "bad gas" would be pretty much gone or diluted.
Checked the oil, added 1/3 quart, waited an hour and headed up the pass for WP. Arrived without incident. The next day, talked to a mechanic at the Lakeland Mini tent at the resort and he said "bad gas" Sooo, since I had almost a full tank, we drove to Grand lake and back. No problem. Next day drove to Denver for Mini Takes the States and back to Hwy 40. Problem comes back. Wait 30 minutes. Limp back to WP. Take a nap!
That evening, drive to Kremmling to burn up the rest of the gas and coast into the Shell in Gramby where I fill up with 93 octane AND add a can of Seafoam. Back to WP, then hit the road the next morning to Denver and back to Dallas. Fill up in Raton NM at Shell with 90octane
No Problems....untillll...Amarillo (500 miles and 7 hours) Problem comes back.
Limp into the BIG TEXAN Steakhouse and eat a baked potato (my son got a Chicken Fried Steak) Wait about an hour and hit 287 for Dallas about 6pm. Kept it on cruise at 65 and make it home without incident.
Today, my wife goes to pick up the daughter from school, long line, and the car stalls on her twice, then dies and won't start. Towed it home with the suburban.
Pertinent elements are:
1. Bad gas/low octane
2. Higher elevation
3. Pushing the motor going up hills and mountains (I normally don't get much past 3500 RPMs, but it was hitting 5500+)
4. Heat
Any ideas what is wrong? The mechanic mentioned that, what I think is the "coil pack", where the spark plug wires terminate can go bad on these year cars. Should I replace it? I can do the work myself but I don't know what to fix...
Drove from Dallas to Winter Park for MITM last week. Fun time!
BUT had a problem on the way. Had been on the road about 5 hours from Amarillo to Pueblo. Suddenly on I25 driving 65-70, not on cruise control, the accelerator goes dead, and I'm losing speed. I pump it a couple of times... nothing. I really stomp it and the transmission down shifts, the engine races and I have acceleration again. Then it happens again maybe 15 seconds later. This goes on until I can get off the road to Denny's. While in park, I give it gas and it backfires.
So we go in,wait for the food for 40 minutes, eat for 20 so a total hour wait.
I thought, "Bad Gas", since I filled up in Dalhart at Valero which only had 90 octane. So, I filled up with 91 octane at a Shell in Pueblo. Took about half a tank.
Took it easy and it was fine till just before we exited I-70 to Hwy 40 heading to Winter Park. I70 is pretty steep from Denver into the mountains, so it was pushing hard. Stopped at the hippie gas station in Empire and filled up with 91 oct. At this point, seems like the "bad gas" would be pretty much gone or diluted.
Checked the oil, added 1/3 quart, waited an hour and headed up the pass for WP. Arrived without incident. The next day, talked to a mechanic at the Lakeland Mini tent at the resort and he said "bad gas" Sooo, since I had almost a full tank, we drove to Grand lake and back. No problem. Next day drove to Denver for Mini Takes the States and back to Hwy 40. Problem comes back. Wait 30 minutes. Limp back to WP. Take a nap!
That evening, drive to Kremmling to burn up the rest of the gas and coast into the Shell in Gramby where I fill up with 93 octane AND add a can of Seafoam. Back to WP, then hit the road the next morning to Denver and back to Dallas. Fill up in Raton NM at Shell with 90octane
No Problems....untillll...Amarillo (500 miles and 7 hours) Problem comes back.
Limp into the BIG TEXAN Steakhouse and eat a baked potato (my son got a Chicken Fried Steak) Wait about an hour and hit 287 for Dallas about 6pm. Kept it on cruise at 65 and make it home without incident.
Today, my wife goes to pick up the daughter from school, long line, and the car stalls on her twice, then dies and won't start. Towed it home with the suburban.
Pertinent elements are:
1. Bad gas/low octane
2. Higher elevation
3. Pushing the motor going up hills and mountains (I normally don't get much past 3500 RPMs, but it was hitting 5500+)
4. Heat
Any ideas what is wrong? The mechanic mentioned that, what I think is the "coil pack", where the spark plug wires terminate can go bad on these year cars. Should I replace it? I can do the work myself but I don't know what to fix...
#16
I did all the ignition repairs and the car still felt sluggish at low RPM, although it idled more smoothly. (plugs, wires, MSD coil pack)
One big improvement came when I stopped buying discount gas (Safeway, Costco, etc.).
And you should be buying Premium grade fuel as well. Your MINI can tell the difference. The difference is only a few bucks for a full tank. It's worth it.
If the car still feels sluggish after all of this, get the Sprint Booster. It really gives the car the sporty character that it should have come with out of the factory. Expensive but worth it. (About $300)
If you STILL want more, do the 15% supercharger pulley. That plus the above mods gives the car a JCW character for a lot less money. (About $100 for the part)
If you have money left, then get a cool air intake ($200?) and an exhaust (mine was about $800).
One big improvement came when I stopped buying discount gas (Safeway, Costco, etc.).
And you should be buying Premium grade fuel as well. Your MINI can tell the difference. The difference is only a few bucks for a full tank. It's worth it.
If the car still feels sluggish after all of this, get the Sprint Booster. It really gives the car the sporty character that it should have come with out of the factory. Expensive but worth it. (About $300)
If you STILL want more, do the 15% supercharger pulley. That plus the above mods gives the car a JCW character for a lot less money. (About $100 for the part)
If you have money left, then get a cool air intake ($200?) and an exhaust (mine was about $800).
#17
#18
#19
eh... semi-related note.
I am awaiting the sprint booster in the mail. bought it.. lol
i have an issue where when i accelerate, the car is a jumpy at 3k like its not accelerating smoothly. i tried the DTBPV, fuel filter, VGS, and lots of other things... i still have a stock hydraulic engine mount and stock engine support. after the SB, they will be the next to go.
of i have drive train lash.
I am awaiting the sprint booster in the mail. bought it.. lol
i have an issue where when i accelerate, the car is a jumpy at 3k like its not accelerating smoothly. i tried the DTBPV, fuel filter, VGS, and lots of other things... i still have a stock hydraulic engine mount and stock engine support. after the SB, they will be the next to go.
of i have drive train lash.
#20
Hi-
Yes, I can feel the difference. While it doesn't add power, it changes the personality of the car and definitely makes it feel more lively. In addition to making the car thinking you are pressing the pedal farther, I think it also makes the car think you are pressing it faster and for slightly longer. Sort of hard to explain but I think the Cooper S should have come like this from the factory. The difference was subtle at first, but when I press the toggle button to disable it, I am reminded how sluggish the car felt before I installed it. I won't go back.
Whether or not it is worth $300 depends, I suppose, on each person's value of money. I felt the car seemed a little sluggish so I gave the Sprint Booster a try.
Yes, I can feel the difference. While it doesn't add power, it changes the personality of the car and definitely makes it feel more lively. In addition to making the car thinking you are pressing the pedal farther, I think it also makes the car think you are pressing it faster and for slightly longer. Sort of hard to explain but I think the Cooper S should have come like this from the factory. The difference was subtle at first, but when I press the toggle button to disable it, I am reminded how sluggish the car felt before I installed it. I won't go back.
Whether or not it is worth $300 depends, I suppose, on each person's value of money. I felt the car seemed a little sluggish so I gave the Sprint Booster a try.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thadscottmoore
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
13
06-04-2021 07:19 AM
thadscottmoore
MINI Parts for Sale
5
09-25-2015 10:07 AM
kjd186
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
2
09-09-2015 10:02 AM