For all of you veterans this might be easy. I did a search of the site but didn't find much. I'll be as detailed as possible.

I have a 2003 MINI Cooper with 89,800 miles. This is the first time that I have done an oil change on it myself since I have had it so I watched a YouTube video just to be sure.

1. I drained the oil.
2. I took the oil filter cap off with a 36mm shallow socket.
3. I pulled the filter out and there was a spring but no plastic thing that I heard about on the video.
4. I cleaned the cap and took the old o-ring off. Dipped new o-ring in oil and put it on cap. Put the new filter (Purolater) in with the rubber gasket side facing out of the cap. I left the spring out per the directions of the video.
5. Put the cap back on, put the oil plug back in.
6. Put 5-qts of Mobil 1 synthetic.

Problem: Got an oil pressure light anytime I engaged the clutch and let off gas.

Checked oil and it was full.

7. Put spring back in.

Same Problem....lol

Any Ideas??? Thank you all in advance!

 

You MUST find the plastic core - it must have been inside of the old oil filter - or buy a new one before you drive your Mini.

 

Yup...your problem is not the light....it is telling you you have low oil preasure....do not drive the car. Get the part, and IMO, get a oem mini/mahle/Mann filter....there have been sporadic reports of issues with aftermarket filters.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djWm0gLqXAY

Go to 3:10 of the video...I'm confused...

 

I don't even see it on here...

And how does it make since that I have not had oil pressure problems in the past? That plastic piece wasn't in the old filter or cap... Again thank you guys for the help

 

Watch the vid again....the black part from your description and the vid is different....
But a warning....some folks have had issues with seemingly good brands of aftermaket filters...if the gasket is just a bit to thin, or the o-ring a bit thin.....all issues....so remove the filter, then reinstall. I was not aware that folks were reccomendinf that folks throw out the thinggy in the earlier cars....either way your symptoms match what he is talking about at the 4 min mark...upside-down filter. According to the vid the black ring is down by the relief valve....you said it is on the top......

 

The plastic thinggy is #4...it is attatched to the cap....

 

My 2003 MC R50 has the same setup. Put the spring in the oil filter cover first, then the filter (with the small opening toward the spring), then screw the cover onto the base and tighten, making sure the O-ring gasket stays in the proper place.

 

can I ask why the design on what should be a simple item is so complex? why not use a simple all-in-one filter like is outfitted on most other cars?

 

I know just by that statement that you never met a German desginer.
The what is old is new again is common in some area's of auto desgin. The seperate filter from the holder makes it simpler to ensure all the oil is removed when disposing of the filters, and you don't have to cut them the get a good look at the pleats to see if the motor is making metal. Also the relief valves, and the housing itself can be made to the exacting standards of the oem, rather than some cheap knock off place making canister filters with imported compotents that are, in all likelyhood, inferior to the oem. To put it simple, this older filter system results is less waste, lower costs, and a potentially cleaner environment with less waste.

 

I have a 2003 MCS and have done an oil change every 5000 miles. About 20 changes so far. I have never seen the spring and the filter housing in that video is different than my 2003. And I only, ONLY, use OEM or Mann filters.

I have never had a problem.

Rich

 

MCS's don't have plastic core. Only MC's have that.

 

LOL on my Mr2 I use OEM filters and they are very high quality. IIRC they are Densco. Sure you would have to cut it for the visual inspection but for 20-30 bucks you can get a detailed oil analysis from a place like blackstone labs

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

These guys are Awesome. I have determined that I can get 8000 miles on my interval with my spyder using Castrol GC Euro formula 0W30 without any worries. They measure not only metal but detergent and other additives that you cannot see. I highly recommend for any who like this kind of stuff.

Last interval at 5K I was high on Si. Puzzled I opened the engine bay to find a broken clip on my air box. Pretty cool in my book.

Oh well everything has its quirks.

 

Because the more complicated they make it the less likely you are to do it yourself I think. Plus, the quick lube places sometimes won't do the work because the cartridge filters don't come in standard sizes so it's harder to stock them, so you end up going to the dealer and spending a months car payment on an oil change.

ZippyNH has a good point about there being a mechanical element too, but the almightly dollar should not be under estimated. I replaced the filter on my 2006 Mazda 3 myself because the first time I took it to a quick lube place they turned me away and then all sorts of stories popped up about blown engines because the filter was installed incorrectly so I started doing it myself. My sister had a Chevy Cavalier that was exactly the same way, and went to the dealership for service because quick lube places wouldn't do it right or refused to do it at all.

Changing cartridge filters vs canister filters is a PITA.

 

Ok so not to beat a dead horse but to those who say that their '03 MC DO NOT have the plastic piece...what do I do?

 

From the description of your problem, it sounds like the filter is installed upside-down. Have you checked it?
You can check it without loosing more than a drop or two....just open the to a turn or two, breaking the seal, then let it drain for a few minutes, then pull the rest off.
If you are 100% certain that you did not throw it out, and you did not have this problem before, it must be the filter, or the placement of the filter....check your work.