R53 Rear Hatch won't open
R53 Rear Hatch won't open
I have had the usual "hatch won't close" which I've reset with the lock/unlock cycle routine. Now it will not open. the 2003 does not have the "open hatch" button on the key and there is no click from the hatch switch when the lock/unlock button is pushed. When unlocked, I can hear a very slight click when operating the hatch switch. After taking the housing off, there is corrosion on exposed metal ribbons and sprayed with WD40, but don't have much hope.
Looking for the part number I need to replace. My nearest dealer is 150 miles away.
Looking for the part number I need to replace. My nearest dealer is 150 miles away.
Paruse to your hearts content. http://www.penskeparts.com/index.aspx
This site is better than realoem, just came on line few weeks ago. You will find that prices are more current and more parts are actually listed than realoem has as well.
Dave
This site is better than realoem, just came on line few weeks ago. You will find that prices are more current and more parts are actually listed than realoem has as well.
Dave
2nd gen is 2007- present hardtops and 2008-present Cabriolets as well as all Clubmans and are R#s R56 R55 R57
1st gen is 2002-2006 hardtops and all Cabriolets until 2007 And R#s R50 R53 R52
A 2003 R53 is most certainly 1st Generation.
As was mentioned you may also be able to find the part # at realOEM.com and a quick search of this section should provide one or two of the install experiences for pointers.
1st gen is 2002-2006 hardtops and all Cabriolets until 2007 And R#s R50 R53 R52
A 2003 R53 is most certainly 1st Generation.
As was mentioned you may also be able to find the part # at realOEM.com and a quick search of this section should provide one or two of the install experiences for pointers.
I had a similar problem with mine....I removed the boot handle...it has 4 torix bolts I believe, and used contact cleaner to fix it...the switch was having moistue get to it from behind...the foam seal behind it is junk. I then reattatched it to the car with a bit of gasket maker after cleaning the mateing area. I tried to use some WD-40 at first, but after activating it just a few times, it stopped working, but a shot of contact cleaner fixed it!! It has been a fewvmonths, no problems. One tip...while the boot handle is off, check the rubber gasket the you press that seals the switch...if that has failed, just order a new boot handle, or get a new switch if you are handy, since it will happen again.
Paruse to your hearts content. http://www.penskeparts.com/index.aspx
This site is better than realoem, just came on line few weeks ago. You will find that prices are more current and more parts are actually listed than realoem has as well.
Dave
This site is better than realoem, just came on line few weeks ago. You will find that prices are more current and more parts are actually listed than realoem has as well.
Dave
Trending Topics
Sorry about my confusing "Classic" with "Gen1".
I have tested the hatch switch and it is good (0.02 ohm). When I pulled the rear seat up the manual release wire is missing (even though it is shown in the manual and on the diagram in the much appreciated penskeparts link) and after wedging my hand past the rear window shelf, I was able to get the back seats folded down. Now to see if I can get to the lock motor.
Has anyone had this problem? do the '03 S not have the manual release? Getting the hatch open would help with getting to the latch motor.
I have tested the hatch switch and it is good (0.02 ohm). When I pulled the rear seat up the manual release wire is missing (even though it is shown in the manual and on the diagram in the much appreciated penskeparts link) and after wedging my hand past the rear window shelf, I was able to get the back seats folded down. Now to see if I can get to the lock motor.
Has anyone had this problem? do the '03 S not have the manual release? Getting the hatch open would help with getting to the latch motor.
No Problem. the MINIs have a unique history and related differently to the "Classics" than most other brands of cars would, and the Classics have their own complex naming system that I still need a chart to figure out sometimes. I figured some clarification could help you find what you're looking for.
The release pictured int he manual was an afterthought not added until '04. There's been several that have removed the battery to do work and shut the hatch.
The release pictured int he manual was an afterthought not added until '04. There's been several that have removed the battery to do work and shut the hatch.
My hatch will not open on my 2004 S. I looked under the rear seat and the is a wire running across the seat area from side to side. Is this the release cable? I am hesitant to pull it. Help?
Rear hatch won't open
My rear hatch will not open. I looked under the rear seat and see a wire; is that the release cable? It runs from side to side. I am hesitant to pull it. Is that the only wire under the seat? New owner of 2004 S
Here is the manual. Go to page 27 and you will see what the cable looks like. Just pull on the ring and it will open.
http://www.motoringfile.com/files/20...perCooperS.pdf
http://www.motoringfile.com/files/20...perCooperS.pdf
03 Copper S - My rear hatch wont open... I have the release cable under the rear seat... this wont release the rear hatch either. When I try to open via the handle at the back of the car I can hear the handle trying to unlatch but it doesn't unlatch... Does anyone have a take a apart guide foe the rear panel of the hatch to access the inside of the rear hatch while it is closed (or open) - looking to take a look inside and see what the issue is.
Okeeton
Okeeton
While you pull the emergency open latch handle under the seat, have someone try to lift up or jiggle the trunk. Sometimes they stick a little.
Here is the diagram for the trunk:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...80#51242754528
#12 is the grip handle that you pull up on and has the little rubber / button that you press to enact the power latch.
#29 & #30 are the handle and cable for the emergency which is under the rear seats.
#8 is the lock itself.
Trunk Lid Lock
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51242754528/

Either the lock is jammed or cable came off.
If those do not work you will have to get to the lock itself and see is the cable came off or something else. You will have to go through the back seat / trunk to the rear trunk cover and try to lift it up to access the lock itself and see what going on.
#2 in diagram
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_4468
Thanks and let us know how it goes.
Here is the diagram for the trunk:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...80#51242754528
#12 is the grip handle that you pull up on and has the little rubber / button that you press to enact the power latch.
#29 & #30 are the handle and cable for the emergency which is under the rear seats.
#8 is the lock itself.
Trunk Lid Lock
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51242754528/

Either the lock is jammed or cable came off.
If those do not work you will have to get to the lock itself and see is the cable came off or something else. You will have to go through the back seat / trunk to the rear trunk cover and try to lift it up to access the lock itself and see what going on.
#2 in diagram
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_4468
Thanks and let us know how it goes.
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; Nov 20, 2024 at 11:54 AM.
Did you try the last step below the lock picture above? #2 in diagram.
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
this may be an obvious question, so please excuse me now... how do you get the electrical harness disconnected from the rear hatch handle??? I do not see any clips or other holding it in place and I do not just want to pull it off. Any direction will be appreciated.
If you don't see the connector you may have to take off the plastic panel off the hatch, in fact that's what I did because I couldn't see the connector and it was easier to clean it like that. Some cars came with a longer harness I guess since not everyone had to do this.
Much appreciated MINIBX-- honestly had not thought about that to get to the harness. Got the hatch release working again (as posted by others-- connectors needed some deep cleaning).
Now, just need to get 10 years' worth of road grime off the car. Right now, going with a medium rubbing compound with a cotton towel after washing. Do not know what else to try. Any thoughts that hit you, feel free to send them my way.
Again, thanks for the tip
Now, just need to get 10 years' worth of road grime off the car. Right now, going with a medium rubbing compound with a cotton towel after washing. Do not know what else to try. Any thoughts that hit you, feel free to send them my way.
Again, thanks for the tip
No problem, any time, glad that you were able to fix it, if you haven't done it, try to change the gasket that seals the handle unit to the body, it's about 10.00 or so it's well worth it.
No pointers on the grime part. Visit the detailing section on NAM but sometimes I use a clay bar before any wax etc.. That takes away that sand feel that you get on the paint and leaves a smooth surface to the touch. Good luck
No pointers on the grime part. Visit the detailing section on NAM but sometimes I use a clay bar before any wax etc.. That takes away that sand feel that you get on the paint and leaves a smooth surface to the touch. Good luck
Hatch won't unlock
My 2009 Mini Cooper S hatch will only unlock if I use the Open Hatch button on the remote. It won't unlock by double tapping the unlock button. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Phenix360 - Sounds like the button under the grip handle on the hatch section is not working but the lock itself is. This is for Gen 1 MINI, but similar set for Gen 2 Hatch. You can check out Gen 2 stock problems area for your MINI in the future.
Here is the Gen 2 MINI thread fro the R56-R58 models.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html

Thanks
Here is the Gen 2 MINI thread fro the R56-R58 models.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html

Thanks
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; May 7, 2014 at 11:15 AM.







