About to replace brake pad sensors, ebrake cable. Tips?
#1
#2
Sorry, I do not have any advice, but I would like a follow up from you on the e-brake cable. My passeger side cable is rusted off I recently found so my e-brake only activates the drivers rear brake. I haven't looked into replacing it yet, but will be shortly and would like any post install advice you may have.
#4
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Use these as guides. Search the forums for anything else.
Maintenance :: Changing FRONT Brake Pads for Beginners!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html
Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ginners-2.html
Maintenance :: Changing FRONT Brake Pads for Beginners!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html
Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ginners-2.html
#5
Thanks guys! The brake job was very straight forward, super easy. As for the ebrake cable, it was very easy as well.
I had my passenger side ebrake cable rust through and break. Here are some steps.
1. Pull up the rear plastic around the ebrake handle and remove black plastic tray.
2. Loosen the lock nut at the front of the ebrake cable on the handle to put some slack into the connection to the 2 cables at the rear. remove the broken cable from the carrier.
3. With the rear of the car in the air/on ramps, twist and pull the old cable from it's resting place on the caliper.
4. Remove the one 10mm bolt holding the cable in place by the rear suspension at the center of the car.
5. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the exhaust heatshield up at the rear where the ebrake cables are routed over. Pull the heat shield down. You should be able to see where the cables enter the cabin of the car and 2 clips that hold the cable to the tunnel of the car.
6. Back inside the car, this next part is a little tricky. The cable is connected to the cabin with a metal snap connection. Sorry, I don't have any pictures, but you'll see it clearly on the new cable. To remove it, you have to push/pry/knock off the snap ring. It's not a solid metal ring (a metal C around the cable end), so it will come off. I used a small flat head screw driver. It's tricky though because it's hard to get to in the car. You'll see what I mean when you get in there, but it's not too hard.
7. With the snap ring removed, get under the car and pull the old cable out.
8. Installation is just the reverse steps! Hope that helps! It only takes about 20-30min.
I had my passenger side ebrake cable rust through and break. Here are some steps.
1. Pull up the rear plastic around the ebrake handle and remove black plastic tray.
2. Loosen the lock nut at the front of the ebrake cable on the handle to put some slack into the connection to the 2 cables at the rear. remove the broken cable from the carrier.
3. With the rear of the car in the air/on ramps, twist and pull the old cable from it's resting place on the caliper.
4. Remove the one 10mm bolt holding the cable in place by the rear suspension at the center of the car.
5. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the exhaust heatshield up at the rear where the ebrake cables are routed over. Pull the heat shield down. You should be able to see where the cables enter the cabin of the car and 2 clips that hold the cable to the tunnel of the car.
6. Back inside the car, this next part is a little tricky. The cable is connected to the cabin with a metal snap connection. Sorry, I don't have any pictures, but you'll see it clearly on the new cable. To remove it, you have to push/pry/knock off the snap ring. It's not a solid metal ring (a metal C around the cable end), so it will come off. I used a small flat head screw driver. It's tricky though because it's hard to get to in the car. You'll see what I mean when you get in there, but it's not too hard.
7. With the snap ring removed, get under the car and pull the old cable out.
8. Installation is just the reverse steps! Hope that helps! It only takes about 20-30min.
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