'03 R53 Miniac Project
Won't start after accident w/air bag deployment.
Battery checks out. Forced the battery disconnect together. Have juice to the engine. Turned key all gauges work & hear noise of electrical in engine compartment. Clutch is in. Clutch disconnect? What's next to check?? ?

 

Did you try your key fob ? had the same issue with my X5, I was using the valet key when I was rear ended by a POS mini van and could not start it the body shop used the fob to get it going.

 

So you by-passed the rear battery dissconnect in the box next to the battery right....how long did the car sit unpowered? I have seen a few threads about folks who need to get the imoblizer re-set if it looses the key info.
Does it crank...or is it a no crank?
Do you hear the fuel pump turn on?

 

I don't recall, that happened back in 2006 sorry .... I will call me friend at the body shop hold on.

 

He is stumped cant figure out over the phone he will check it out on his computer when gets back to work in the AM .... He thinks it might be the imoblizer he said to check your battery cables.

 

Heard the fuel pump. Been sitting for 1yr 4mo & 16days.. .
Battery cables seem to work after the bypass. I'm ordering a new set for about $330 unless some1 can help.

 

The immobilizer sounds like the thing to check/reset. The tool needed to accomplish this is beyond my powers of speculation and could be expensive to replicate or reproduce.

 

Zippy, your in NH? Would luv to tag up with some owners this summer. Got #150 on MOT if it done by then. All comes down to out of pocket $.. .

 

Nabeshin, don't know any1 or never needed any1 in NH. Did get Concord Motors to maybe stop by but I don't know.. .

 

When my dads air bag deployed he had to get a whole new wiring harness.

 

XS, new harness?! Sounds sketchy. Thought the reason for battery cut off was for that reason.. .

 

Naww...I'm scheduled to be working that week. There will be a ton of folks from the the local clubs I bet!! If it is good as past years, you will have a blast!!
One tip...the battery disconects in the box is sold in a repair kit...the BMW one fits mini's...mini did not list a kit... They may now...but should be cheaper than replacing the entire box.

 

The disconnect I speak of is not in a box but on the +side battery cable itself. From what I understand after air bag deploy it sends a charge to that disconnecting point right at the battery post. It's covered by plastic cover easily removed. You can push or fuse the 2 parts back easily but a dash sensor will show until entire cable is replaced. Am I wrong?

 

I think from the way you are describing it you have it right...in the trunk, there is a disconnect next to the battery...remember there are 2 + cables, one goes to the regular fuse pannel, one, with the explosive squid that is activated once the airbag goes off, is connected to the cable that goes directly to the starter motor.
If the car is powered, but the starter will not crank.. Double check that you have bypassed the disconnect.
One thought...since the battery for the start is dissconetcted (by the explosive charge when the aibag is deployed) and the light+horn are activated (if I remember right), it might be nessary to reset the system somehow after an airbag deployment...you might need a airbag reset tool or something....I'm not sure, but a body shop, or friendly guy at the dealership might have the info.
Good luck...sounds like you will know your car inside and out when you are done!!

 

Looking for another engine cutoff. Told there's one in drivers side engine comp. fire wall area. Don't recall seeing besides fuse box. Clues/pics?

 

Still stumped. Any1 awake?

 

The only thing that I can think of under the bonnet, where you decribed, is the other end of the B+ cable that you described in the boot. 98% of my wiring is lying in a pile on the floor. I'll take a look at the remaing bits. It will be much easier to see on my car. I think that if the cable with the pyro device was bad, you would have an airbag warning light. Maybe the code was cleared? If you need the "$300" cable give me a shout. As Zippy mentioned, there may be a repair kit available.
Greg

 

Check your engine grounds: the one one the passenger side motor mount particularly. Check your clutch switch up under the dash. Are you sure that you have enough amperage to turn the motor over? Do you hear multiple clicks when you try to crank it?

 

I know there has to be a few grounds not connected seeing bumper support/front clip is off. I believe only 1 major ground is disconnected due to being ripped off which is engine ground from motor mount on passanger side. Could this keep it from starting? The Clutch Switch has been my thought but haven't figured where/what goes. There is no clicking from starter.

 

The ground strap on the motor mount will keep the starter from working if removed. It is the only ground for the engine to the chassis.

 

Thanx GR, will have body guy reweld it back on next.

 

The one on the drivers side of engine compartment is the fuel cutoff switch. But that only came on the early 02 MINIs, I don't think you have one. Its a round button looking thing up on the wall almost next to the brake master cylinder. If they are set off all you need to do is push down on the top of it to reset it.

 

Don't have that fuel cutoff switch unless anyone see's it in my pic's. Just hooked up the engine ground & still no change. Yes, I did order Bentley service manual. Next.. .

 

Healey67 is a buddy of mine that I invited to join the thread in an attempt to get you running. He KNOWS MINIs. Here is a pic of the infamous $300 B+ cable.



the small black wire connected to the battery end is tied to the airbag system. When the airbag deploys, a signal is sent to the black box on the battery end. A charge goes off and the circuit is broken. The other end pictured is the "BATT +" box on the drivers side of the engine compartment. It is tied directly to the starter.

Other electrical funtions are carriers on a separate positive cable that is unaffected by airbag deployment. It can be found in this mess:


look closely for the large red cables.

The high cost to replace the B+ cable is due to where it is located. One must remove the cat-back. Remove much heat shielding, remove left front wheel and wheel liner. There may be more that must come off that I didn't notice because I had already removed it.

Greg

 

That would be the one I need. Sent you email.
You guys are awsome.