I've been looking around the forums for other threads like this but only find threads with noises, or no start issues.

My MCS always starts but it cranks for 5 to 10 seconds before it starts. I find it helps to open the throttle a bit. I put in a new set of NGK plugs, and a air filter last week but my problem continues. Has anyone seen this before or have any ideas?

 

When I work on stand alone ECU's this is typically indicative of too much or too little fuel being dumped into the engine at start up. My guess would be too much as it's starting later on, probably after the ECU has cut fuel to clear any flooding. When the fuel cuts the fuel that is in there being "cleaned out" lights off and your engine starts up.

These cars are drive by wire, so I dont know if opening the throttle at start up actually does anything, but if it does that also suggests to much fuel.

Of course why this is happening I dont know, the amount of fuel you have to dump into an engine during cranking doesnt have to be perfect, close enough is usually good. Something must be really out of whack for this to be happening in the way you describe it.

Or maybe it's something trivial... I cant say for sure.

 

I'll take fuel pressure tonight and see what it looks like during start up. I know that is not indicative of what the injectors are doing but I can't check injectors.

I should also note that my car is bone stock for now and the CEL isn't on.

 

Bone stock and no CEL... Wow, tricky one. How long has it been doing this?

 

It has been this way for a few weeks now but I just found out this was reported by the previous owners also and the dealership installed a new fuel pump which took care of the problem.

Yesterday and this morning I turned the key quickly from the lock position to the start position and the car started immediately. Before I had been pausing briefly at the run position before continuing on to the start position.

 

It could be a bad check valve in the fuel pump, which for the moment I am going to assume our cars have. When you first turn the car to the on position the ECU turns the fuel pump on for a sec to get fuel pressure in the lines. If the check valve in the fuel pump is bad then as soon as the pump shuts off all your fuel pressure goes away and then the car waits til the engine is cranking to turn the pump back on.

That could do it. It could also be badly clogged fuel filter.

 

I have been thinking about a fuel filter and have been to two parts stores and neither of them can get the filter. I guess I'll have to order one.

I never thought of a check valve. Surely it would have to sit right above the pump?

 

I recently had my fuel filter changed. It's about time for any R53 if you have never had it changed. It is quite a bit of work though. My neighbor's MINI already had to have her fuel pump replaced so that would be one of the pitfalls of a clogged fuel filter.

 

In the service records it shows that it had a new fuel pump a while back. I would have assumed that they did a filter in the new assembly but I can't be for sure.

I checked pressure just a minute ago and it was right on 50psi. Does anyone know what the pressure should be?

 

I have the same issue, curious to see the results.

 

I changed the filter though it didn't look too dirty. The problem immediately went away and would fire up almost instantly. Now a little over a month later is it slightly slow to start when compared to my vette, but nothing like it was before the filter change.

I think it was defiantly a case of dirty fuel. If I would have known this from the beginning I would have pulled the tank and cleaned it out also.

 

I just read your post on the 'switch key' very nice work. I've been thinking about doing that myself. I was planning on milling another key from aluminum with the hinge on it.

 

The switch key has a roll pin, so you wouldn't need to mill anything