SO... I just finished changing out my clutch, pressure plate and release bearing in my '03 r50.

After I've put it all back together again, I fire her up and there's this squealing noise that definitely wasn't there before the bearing went out, and it gets louder and higher pitched as engine RPMs increase. regardless of whether or not i'm moving, or in gear.. i drove it down to the parts store with the bumper off so i could get the parking lamps and noticed the same kind of grinding noise I started hearing the day that it went out a couple of weeks ago..

I think I may have been the problem. I replaced the original with the Valeo kit, did not replace the guide tube. I remembered reading something (on NAM, I thought) about not greasing the splines on the shaft so that it wouldn't throw out on to the clutch disk... but i think my problem was that I didn't pack the release bearing.

Dumb, right? i should have packed that bearing with grease before i put it in there?

I'm having to do this again this weekend, huh?

 

Why didn't you replace the guide tube? Its been well known for some time that the guide tube and release bearing are of poor design.

 

in-experience... i guess i didn't do quite enough research before..

looks like i'll have the opportunity now, though..

i do have to pack that bearing before i button it up, right? a guy i work with here that drives a late model race car says that i shouldn't have to grease the bearing... i don't believe him..

 

Replacing the guide tube is only vital on R53 models. You're fine just inspecting, cleaning and lubing the Cooper guide tube. Of course, if it's scored or otherwise fubared, then replace, but it's not necessary like it is with the R53s.

 

the existing one was in pretty good shape when i opened it up.. i just had to clean it up a little to get the melted old bearing off of it.. but it wasn't scored or dented or damaged in any other way..

still.. do i have to pack grease in that new bearing?

I ordered the sach's brand release bearing to replace the valeo that came in my kit because it looked like the plate on it was metal and not that crappy composite plastic.. (new one was like $70 @ partsgeek.com)

 

here's apic of my destroyed bearing before i took it out of the trans:

 

If I didn't have to pack grease in it... that would tell me that my problem is something else.. and not the bearing..

 

no one??

I know it's a probably a dumb question... but, please...

Do I have to pack grease in that release bearing?

I'm guessing that I do.. but this guy i work with is telling me not to so that it doesn't get grease on the clutch disk.. that just sounds wrong to me. as far as i know, all bearings need to be packed.. i just made the mistake of not packing this one before i closed it up.

 

yah... so... I called Valeo just to make sure of what i did or did not do before i go tearing into this thing again..

turns out that the release bearing is a sealed unit and doesn't need to be packed with grease. wouldn't have been able to do it if i tried.

so, that leaves me with this on-going dilemma and an undrivable MINI. (and another $70 worth of bearing and shipping on it's way to my house that i suppose i'm not going to need)

anyone have any ideas? any at all?

i did not grease the splines at all because of what i had read about that grease getting on the clutch disk, but my shaft slid into the disk without a problem. The only other thing that I've heard said to do is to wire-tie the release fork lever to the slave cylinder mounting point to keep it from moving forward when positioning the trans. I didn't do this, but it seems that the only reason for doing that would be to make sure that the bearing didn't slide over the end of the guide tube, thereby keeping the shaft and entire transmission from seating all the way.. Mine seated w/out any issues. slid right in there.. my brother mentioned that I should have at least greased the end of that shaft where it mates to the divot on the other side of the clutch disk (in the flywheel, if i remember correctly). is it possible that this minute point is what is making my car sound like a chorus of nails on a chalkboard?

I miss my MINI.

 

ok, follow along here with me and tell me if you think my rationale is correct:

I have this crazy sqeual that increases in volume and pitch in direct relation to the RPMs of my engine. I have not driven it more than 10 miles since i put the transmission back in, nor has it idled for more than 10 minutes or so, all together.

I know for sure that it makes the noise when i am driving (clutch pedal out, clutch disk engaged to the flywheel, transmission in gear, wheels turning) and also when I was letting it idle so i could listen to it (clutch pedal out, clutch disk engaged to flywheel, transmission in neutral, wheels NOT moving).

What i did not take note of was if the noise continued when I was stationary, out of gear (clutch pedal in, clutch disk NOT engaged, transmission in either neutral or in gear, wheels moving or not).

that being said, here's my rationale:

if I am idling, at a stop, in gear, clutch pedal in and the squeal STOPS it means that the noise IS coming from my transmission because (if it was coming from there) it would only be making the noise when one part or another in the transmission is moving. Having disengaged the clutch from the flywheel allows the engine to rotate while the transmission stays put (and keeps you from stalling out when you're @ a light, duh.)

IF I am idling, at a stop, in gear, clutch pedal in and the squeal DOESN'T stop it means that the noise is coming from a part that is in motion, which would NOT be the transmission. (and i would then start checking the usual suspects like water pump and alternator, first)

What i'm not 100% sure of is:

1) Did I properly torque the bolts on the transmission. If not, did it cause the clutch disk to become misaligned inside of the pressure plate & flywheel assembly, causing the squeal as the flywheel rubs on the clutch disk.

I assume, though, that if that were the case I would NOT hear the noise when I was driving in gear because the clutch disk and flywheel should be rotating at the same rate while sandwiched together. I know that the transmission is not slipping under power because I did manage to drive it around just a bit. The fact that the noise continues when moving under power in gear leads me to believe that this is NOT the issue.

2) Does the end of the splined shaft that comes out of the transmission and mates with the clutch disk actually rest against that divot behind the flywheel. And if so, does that portion of the assembly rotate with the flywheel or is it stationary.

If it rotates it would lead me to believe that it is NOT the transmission, because that would mean that it rotates at the same rate as the flywheel (and engaged clutch & splined shaft, as long as the clutch is not slipping) and would therefore NOT cause the noise.


It's just the strangest damn thing... before that release bearing went out I didn't have one single problem. Not one noise that was out of the ordinary, not one weird feeling shift, no lag, nothing. Engine seems to run fine. The only other real work that I've EVER had to do to her was have the clutch on the a/c compressor rebuilt (did that back in october), but they tested the compressor at that time to make sure that it wasn't the issue, just its clutch, and said that it was functioning properly. but I wouldn't be TOO surprised to find out that it was a bearing in either that or the alternator or water pump (the rotation rates of all three of those parts varies directly with engine RPMs. either one of them going, I suppose, could cause this noise if their bearings were failing).

any insight anyone has is GREATLY appreciated.

 

Did you ever find the cause of this problem ?
I have just rebuilt my engine and put a new clutch in and I seem to have the same kind of noise.
It sqeaks when the clutch is engaged in nuetral or when I have it gear with the clutch out ie. engaged.When I dip the clutch the noise stops !
It also doesnt seem to disengage very well as the car jumps when I put it into gear.
I think I will have to strip it down but it would be good to know what to look for.
Regards
Tony

 

not really... I drove it and after a while it stopped. I had also had the clutch in the A/C compressor rebuilt and I had put that in not too long before doing the transmission. I think that my squealing problem was more related to the belt than anything else.. I've got (now) 132k miles on her and am still running on the original belt.. (I know, I know..) Actually, I had put one of those mechanic's stethoscopes on it and am fairly sure that the noise was really coming from my tensioner.. but it's since stopped so I'm not worrying about it. maybe try lubing that tensioner if you think that might be it.. not sure if you'd want to use a grease or a graphite, though.. your call on that one.

To your problem of the car lurching when you put it in gear, did you do anything with your master or slave clutch cylinders? Sounds to me like that problem would be caused by the clutch not fully disengaging and allowing the plates to rub together some when you shift.. I know I had a couple issues with aligning that slave cylinder on its bracket on top of the trans. Maybe it's sitting on the wrong side of the bracket and not providing sufficient travel. I'd check there first.

 

Right off the bat I wanna suggest resurfacing or replacing your fly wheel,h which also needs to be rougher up lightly.

I had this issue BEFORE switching my clutch kit into my 04 R50 Midland transmission.


One day I noticed driving home I grinded gears three and four going home on my usual route and I never push my car very hard, but I did a little this night to get into the highway.

The next day my car grinded and slammed getting into reverse, idled rough in first but disengaged clutch like waiting at a stop, and stuttered really hard while engaging the clutch in either reverse or first.

I changed the fluid to a subpart but proper weight fluid, and that's when the whining started. I had to go to work so on I went and observed EXACTLY the same conditions of whining as you both did -- all the time. The shifting was better though, no slamming or grinding. Once I got home I changed the fluid to syncromesh by Pensoil, The whining/squeaking persisted, so I ignored it and drove but only got about 3 miles from home before my clutch was obviously slipping - the car had a 90% loss of power. I wasn't getting to highway speeds and I wasn't getting up a hill but my engine would rev all the way up.

Our whistling went away, but as I idled waiting for the tow truck I noticed a chirping started that disappeared with any gas. IDK if that was just age, my belt, or what I think our issue was -- a high spot on the flywheel.

Lmk if either of you know what the culprit was.

 

I had a similar issue before my throw out bearing went out and I had to do a clutch replacement at the same time that it happened. When my bearing went it the band on the outside of the bearing had separated sending ball bearings flying and had fused to the guide tube due to heat. Since replacing the clutch, guide tube, and throw out bearing I haven’t heard this noise. Granted this was on a r53.