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The penultimate straw...

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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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The penultimate straw...

A while back I had to do some unexpected repairs on my 05 MCS due to early component failures. I got close to declaring it a complete POS and just getting rid of it. But I decided to tolerate at most two more premature repairs before giving it the heave, hoping that the worst was over for awhile.

Well, the penultimate failure just occurred -- a coolant leak. It appears to be from the thermostat housing and it looks like they'll have to remove the intercooler to fix it.

Question: Does it make sense to have them do anything else prophylactically beside replacing the thermostat while they've got the intercooler off? The mileage is less than 65K.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Removing the inter-cooler is a 5 minute job....much eassier to remove than swapping out an air-filter. So don't stress it!!
Sounds to me like you should find a shop who knows the MINI...so you can enjoy driving it, and not stress the small stuff!!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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+1 to Zippy's reply. Also, if it makes you feel any better, a leaking thermostat housing is one of the most common and simplest MINI problems. We've had it happen to both of our MINIs, along with the leaking passenger-side engine mount. Any shop that's seen more than a handful of MINIs will have experience with the thermostat problem and will have you back on your way in no time.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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If it's that easy, maybe I'll try a DIY so I don't have to count this as a straw!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Just buy a torix bit set.... Lots of things on the MINI need them. You will need them to remove the intercooler cover and boots....check with a vendor....the color of the gasket changed when MINI came out with a improved one...they can sell you the right one...or at the very least tell you the color of the right one!!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Replaced mine recently. There was the start of a small leak found when installing an M7 thermostat.

The old housing and TStat is in the background.

New housing and TStat in foreground. New gasket here sorta looks gray but it was more of a translucent opaque/clear.

 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Thanks all.

The threads I've found so far give some of the details. From those threads and from Gray Raven's post (thanks for the pic!), it looks like I should replace the housing too while I'm at it, regardless of its condition. Kind of surprised it's plastic...

I need to do some more searches to resolve a few remaining questions before I commit to a DIY; namely how much coolant I'll need to remove first and then how to bleed the system afterwards. Then it'll be time to order some parts and dust off the tools!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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If you buy 1 gallon of BMW/MINI coolant, it is pleanty after you mix it with distilled water....you will end up with 2 gallons or so...you will only need a few quarts....so this might be a good time to refil the system with fresh coolant if you are due.......bleeding is a pain, but doable, just expect to do it 3 or 4 times to get it right!! Simple, but a pain.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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I wouldn't worry about replacing the housing. I've only replaced one in 7years and done 100 thermostats. But do make sure you get the newer clear color gasket like in the pic. We sell thermostats so when you order make sure you don't get old stock from the shelf, I've found a few places that haven't sold through the old stock.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/thermos...t-r50-r53.html
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
I wouldn't worry about replacing the housing. I've only replaced one in 7years and done 100 thermostats.
Thanks for the advice.

One repair shop told me that sometimes the leak is caused by the plastic housing distorting. I'll assume that's the rare exception based on your input (and also on my own gut feel) so I won't order the housing initially if I decide to go down the DIY path.

According to my further searches on draining the coolant, it looks like there's no radiator drain valve so I'll have to disconnect the lower hose from the radiator. That may make it difficult to only partially drain the coolant as I had planned.

I'd appreciate any pointers on the draining part from those who've done this in a home garage setting.

I also found some stuff on bleeding the system afterward and it seems straightforward enough once I locate both bleed ports.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 04:56 AM
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What Way said I am sure is true in his case. But consider this as well if you are planning on keeping your MINI for a long time.

1) Most of the cost in replacing the thermostat/gasket is the labor.
2) The part in question is made of ABS plastic, and like most plastics which are super heated and cooled, exposed to chemicals, it would seem logical that there is the possiblity of it's failure.
3) The cost of a new housing is like what, 30 bucks ?

While I respect the fact that a 100 were removed and re-installed and none ever leaked except for one, and while I am always for saving a buck when ever possible. The housing is what, a 30 dollar part ?

An ounce of prevention can be worth a pound of cure. My 2 cents.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Good point Gray Raven. It's always good to get different perspectives.

Way is behaving ethically by not replacing parts on customers' vehicles which don't need replacing. As an owner, it's an elective decision which boils down to spending another 30 bucks.

That said, the ounce of prevention approach can sometimes become a slippery slope!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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My old thermostat's spring retainer broke yet the gasket and housing were fine. I had a new thermostat and housing put in, as well as a complete coolant flush. I had it done because I despise dealing with coolant after I got some in my eye once during a previous flush, it was able to circumvent my goggles. That eye still tends to dry out more than the other.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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When I drained my coolant, I just drove up on ramps like I was going to change my oil, slid undr the car, removed the approprate underside splash-guard, and used a set of plyers to remove the lower hose. One tip...keep a new hose clamp on hand...about a buck, the oem ones can snap off, or be a pain in tight quarters. Then just remove the overflow tank cover, and the system will drain. If you drain it all, or just part, you will still need to bleed it, so IMO, just drain it, then refil with fresh coolant...you will have changed out about 50% of the systems coolant...enough to keep it fresh if you do it every 2 years or so.
One word of warning....use the same coolant you have in your car. Do not add any universal fluid....it does not meet specs for compatbility. The green, the orange, the yellow and the pink are all chemicaly different than what is in your car if it still has fluid from the factory/ dealer. BMW/mini fluid is blue, and is a hybird technology fluid...zyerx g-05 I think is the aftermarket compatible stuff. But BMW/mini sells it undulated for about 18$ a gallon...just mix it with de-mileralized water...otherwise known as distilled in the recommend %. Then refil, and bleed. There should be a few diy's around.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Thanks for the details ZippyNH.

Draining the coolant is the one aspect of this project which may yet derail my DIY plan. I have visions of the coolant overflowing the container, spraying all over the place or creating some other kind of havoc. Plus, I'd have to dig out my jackstands since I don't have ramps like you do.

I found a thread which described using a shop-vac to extract the coolant. Suddenly the clouds have parted and I'm thinking this might be the most practical approach for me. But I still have to figure out how to dispose of the coolant in a responsible manner.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:33 AM
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You could just put a tarp under the car, maybe a shallow pan, and simply remove the thermostat. You could sipon off the tank stuff first...but from experance, I will tell you, you will get about 1 gallon out by pulling the radiator hose if you don't disconnect the heater hose on the firewall. If you have a couple 2x6's, get them from the scrap rack at home depot etc where they paint the ends to indate the prices...since the one you get are too short for most construction, they will cost you 5 bucks total, screw them together, maybe use a dab of construction adhesive, and you will have a pair if superstong ramps, cheaper than anything at the autoparts store...heavy, but custom. 2 maybe 3 layers should give you pleany of space to reach under the car.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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Depending on the local municaplaity, many will accept the coolant at the town garage, just like most do oil. Some will only do it once per year....the local auto parts stores wil be able to give you some info on what to do with it. Used antifreez is actually collected, rerefined, and resold....but unlike oil, once the contaminates are removed, it is good as new. Common uses are antifreeze, baby wipes....yup....and aircraft de-iced. No reason to add that line...lol, just felt like it! Have fun, and what ever you decide, you know know a lot more about your car! I hope you manage to keep it...just remember the silly smile on you face driving it when all is ok!!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
and what ever you decide, you know know a lot more about your car!
Unfortunately, the more I'm being forced to learn about the mechanics of this car, the less respect I have for BMW.

I've been reading the thread about the ticking timebomb which awaits -- the SC. Thanks to BMW's brilliant engineering, there's no reasonable way to check or replenish the lubricant -- in fact they've deemed it to have "lifetime lubrication". So it's doomed to fail much earlier than it needs to. This borders on engineering malpractice, imo.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 911Fan
Unfortunately, the more I'm being forced to learn about the mechanics of this car, the less respect I have for BMW.

I've been reading the thread about the ticking timebomb which awaits -- the SC. Thanks to BMW's brilliant engineering, there's no reasonable way to check or replenish the lubricant -- in fact they've deemed it to have "lifetime lubrication". So it's doomed to fail much earlier than it needs to. This borders on engineering malpractice, imo.
I'm not happy about that either....but to make everything fit I guess they had to make compermises, then determine what was cost effective. I'd blame the bean counters....and also listen for the draggy chain sounds...then stop, and remove the unit. But, not everybody has had the problem...maybe your cross to bear has already been done with the other stuff and the thermostat housing....just cause some people have a problem does not we will all have it.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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Welcome to modern car ownership. Cars are becoming less and less easy to fix nowadays, as they become more of a throwaway item, and less of a serviceable item.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Hey, that pic looks familiar! GR and I both had our housings changed that day as mine in my 06 was leaking. The advice above is sound but I wanted to add this.

It sounds to me like you are done with the car already as most of your comment is negative. Sadly the MINI is not really all that reliable over the long haul like a Toyota but you need to also understand for the ones that are here complaining about a SC or other fault there are thousands out there with no problems. Rather than focusing on problems that don't exist, I would focus on getting out there and having fun or you might as well sell it and move on. Just a thought...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by daflake
Sadly the MINI is not really all that reliable over the long haul
...or the short haul (<100K).
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 911Fan
...or the short haul (<100K).
That is relative.... What is short to you is long to others. 100K is a lot of miles on any car in my opinion. I currently have 67K on mine and have only had minor issues. My Ford Escort had more problems than my MINI has over that distance and even the Subaru Forester has had some issues over that time. Like I said, if you want reliable then Honda or Toyota might just be for you.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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This is a good thread, timely for me. I am getting ready to do the cooling systems maintenance on my '04. Now I know to prophylactically replace the radiator housing & thermostat as well as hoses & coolant.
One thing you may want to consider, since you're gonna have to replace coolant, is EVAN'S NPG coolant. No water, no pressure, higher BP.
I have it in my Honda CBR1100XX for the last few years. The bird is not designed for stop & go traffic & is prone to near-overheating in city driving. The thought of a blown water hose between my legs, although slightly exhilarating, does bother me.
It's an extra 60 bucks or so, but well worth it since you are gonna get filthy & wet anyway.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Philip Rushing
This is a good thread, timely for me. I am getting ready to do the cooling systems maintenance on my '04. Now I know to prophylactically replace the radiator housing & thermostat as well as hoses & coolant.
One thing you may want to consider, since you're gonna have to replace coolant, is EVAN'S NPG coolant. No water, no pressure, higher BP.
I have it in my Honda CBR1100XX for the last few years. The bird is not designed for stop & go traffic & is prone to near-overheating in city driving. The thought of a blown water hose between my legs, although slightly exhilarating, does bother me.
It's an extra 60 bucks or so, but well worth it since you are gonna get filthy & wet anyway.
Motorcycles are a different beast.... Sounds to me like a disaster in the making....the passages on a cast-iron block and aluminum head, not to mention the seals on the water pump....might be worth a shot on a track car...let us know how it turns out!!
 
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