Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Trick to remove wheels?

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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
Webmonkey's Avatar
Webmonkey
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From: Kansas City
I tried (in vain) to rotate my wheels this afternoon. I took all four lugs off of each wheel and neither wheel would move at all..

I have a MCS with the S-Lite wheels (just like in my siggy pic)

Is there a trick or do I just need to find someone who is less of a wuss than me to help remove the wheel from the car?

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 01:45 PM
  #2  
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From: Libertyville, Illinois
You did nothing wrong, but your wheels are stuck on the hubs from corrosion. It is a small amount (from trapped water in the hub, probably). To get them off will require a bit of pounding on the inside of the tire to knock it off the hub. It is a good idea to put back on a couple of the lug nuts to stop the wheel from falling on you when it does come loose. Please don't lay under the car and kick them as this is one way people apply for a 'Darwin Award'. Sometimes just grabbing the tire and wiggling hard will work. Be careful and good luck.

PerfPow
 
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 05:34 PM
  #3  
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From: Uniontown, PA
I took mine off with only 900 miles on to change to EBC Greenstuff brake pads. Had one heck of a time getting the off. Basically just kept banging the rim back & forth with a rubber mallet. Before I put the back on I took a wire wheel on an electric drill to clean off the rust from the hubs then, put on some anti-seize before putting wheels back on. Don't forget to torque to 90 ft.lbs.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 05:54 PM
  #4  
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And after about 20-25 miles later retorque the lug nuts to avoid them working loose and becoming a three wheeler.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 05:58 PM
  #5  
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fourkeelers
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PerfPow, which wheels/size are those?

Nice ride. my DS/DS will be the only the 2nd car out of 12 not black.

l8r,

 
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 06:38 PM
  #6  
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Yeak, mine looked crappy too.

A TINY bit of aluminum anti-sieze for sparkplugs, and I haven't
had a problem again.


 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 02:14 AM
  #7  
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>>Yeak, mine looked crappy too.
>>
>>A TINY bit of aluminum anti-sieze for sparkplugs, and I haven't
>>had a problem again.
>>
>>

I need to buy a torque wrench. Should it be 3/8" or 1/2". And what about the size of the socket. Can someone enlighten me on this??

thanks!!!

 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 06:12 AM
  #8  
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Octane,

I found a Craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench (adj. up to 125 lbs.) at my local Sears for about $65. The MINI lugs are 17mm (almost all are in 3/8). If you use a short socket, get an extension / stepdown from 1/2 to 3/8 to avoid scraping the wrench along the body molding.

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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 08:04 AM
  #9  
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apexer
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From: Uniontown, PA
Most auto parts stores have torque wrenches for under $30.00 that are more than accurate enough for doing wheels. 3/8 drive would be OK but, I got the 1/2 drive with capability up to 150 ft.lbs. Also bought 17mm 1/2" drive deepwell socket. Total cost under $35.00.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 08:13 AM
  #10  
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From: A Den in Maryland
The safest way to remove a stuck wheel that wont come off after some 'persuasion' is to replace all the lug bolts leaving them each backed off about three turns, lower the car to the ground, remove the jack roll the car in either direction slowly and hit the brakes a couple times. This will dislodge the wheel, but it wont fall off as the loosened bolts will keep it in place. Jack the car back up and remove the wheel normally. A very light coating of aluminum-based anti-sieze compound will prevent this from happening again. use a wire brush to clean the rotor surfaces and the wheel mounting surface before applying the anti-sieze and reassembling.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 08:42 AM
  #11  
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Webmoneky,

Don't know if you got them off yet but a little WD40 sprayed on the area will help them come loose.

Earl
 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 09:36 AM
  #12  
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From: Anaheim, CA
>>Most auto parts stores have torque wrenches for under $30.00 that are more than accurate enough for doing wheels. 3/8 drive would be OK but, I got the 1/2 drive with capability up to 150 ft.lbs. Also bought 17mm 1/2" drive deepwell socket. Total cost under $35.00.

Thanks MGCMan and Apexer! That's exactly what I was looking for. =)

Richard

 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 09:47 AM
  #13  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
>>>>Most auto parts stores have torque wrenches for under $30.00 that are more than accurate enough for doing wheels. 3/8 drive would be OK but, I got the 1/2 drive with capability up to 150 ft.lbs. Also bought 17mm 1/2" drive deepwell socket. Total cost under $35.00.
>>
>>Thanks MGCMan and Apexer! That's exactly what I was looking for. =)

Either 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench will work as long as they can be adjusted to about 100 lb ft of torque.
For tightening the lug bolts on your MINI use 88 ft lb setting and you should be fine.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 09:59 AM
  #14  
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>>And after about 20-25 miles later retorque the lug nuts to avoid them working loose and becoming a three wheeler.
>>
had a bad experience????
 
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Old Dec 4, 2003 | 09:11 PM
  #15  
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From: Las Vegas
Had a Classic Mini become a 3-wheeler while going round a corner. Most unpleasant. Had to replace 2 of the studs, and eventually, the disk caliper assembly.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 09:16 AM
  #16  
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From: PA/NJ
>>The safest way to remove a stuck wheel that wont come off after some 'persuasion' is to replace all the lug bolts leaving them each backed off about three turns, lower the car to the ground, remove the jack roll the car in either direction slowly and hit the brakes a couple times. This will dislodge the wheel, but it wont fall off as the loosened bolts will keep it in place. Jack the car back up and remove the wheel normally. A very light coating of aluminum-based anti-sieze compound will prevent this from happening again. use a wire brush to clean the rotor surfaces and the wheel mounting surface before applying the anti-sieze and reassembling.

This is what I did for the RF wheel of JerseryGirl's MINI. Sucker was on there for good. I also used anti-seize on the hubs.

I asked the service dept about this and they said it's common and their mechanics can often be seen whacking on wheels to get them off. He recommended the anti-seize.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 09:50 AM
  #17  
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"mechanics can often be seen whacking on wheels to get them off"
I thought it said something esle, very close to it.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 02:56 PM
  #18  
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i use a 32oz mallet and gently tap the wheels/tires in a star pattern until it
loosens. i do keep the last bolt on the bottom of the hub loosely just
incase the wheel suddenly gives away from the hub.


 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 03:06 PM
  #19  
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From: A Den in Maryland
>>"mechanics can often be seen whacking on wheels to get them off"
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 03:09 PM
  #20  
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>>>>Yeak, mine looked crappy too.
>>>>
>>>>A TINY bit of aluminum anti-sieze for sparkplugs, and I haven't
>>>>had a problem again.
>>>>
>>>>
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 03:22 PM
  #21  
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From: Macedonia, Ohio
I use a big plastic mallet and just whap on the edge of the rims, works great for getting the wheels off. S-lites seem to suffer the problem pretty bad. Where to find one of these ammers, I'm not sure - I believe mine is Snap-On.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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From: Ellicott City, Maryland USA
I loosen the lug nuts about halfway then sit down in front of the wheel and kick the tire on each side, left then right side and it wiggles right off. Anti seize is a good thing and I use it all the time but it sure is messy. I put a little dab on the lug bolts/studs too, No controversy please because I've been doing this for years and have never had a wheel come loose or fall off.
I haven't had this problem on the MINI because anti seize was used when I first put on my 16"s.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #23  
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gomezmgg
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From: Henderson, Nevada, USA
Saved by NAM (again)!!

Greetings from Nevada!

Well the UPS guy dropped my new wheels and tires off on Monday ( 17" BBS RK's and 205/45/17 BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW's from Tire Rack) and I've been itching to get them on the car so...........got up early this AM and took the car down to the shop to put them on. Started with the right front. Took off all four lugs and that wheel was not coming off. Pulled, pushed, shoved rattled, and even tried a rubber mallet on it and the other three with the same results. Fortunately I decided to search the NAM forums and see if there was a secret (I originally suspected a layer of JB weld was applied to the hubs at the factory). Thankfully the information was here! After 4500 miles my wheels were really stuck. After following the advice here which included moving the car and carefully appliying the brakes with the lug nuts loose I am now free of the superlites and run flats. Seems a little chemical reaction was going on between the cast iron hub and the aluminum wheel making the original close tolerances even tighter. After cleaning the rust off the hub I applied a coat of white grease around the hub center before putting the new wheels on. But I wonder what would have happened if I had ever needed to remove a wheel along the road side?? Anyway many thanks to those that have contributed here you have saved me again!!!.............(MTR ON)..........mgg

 
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 05:30 AM
  #24  
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D.D.
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From: Tampa, Fla.
Do you really think you would EVER get the wheel off if you had a flat? Can you imagine working on the car with the POS of a jack they give you? Although I do not carry a spare, I am able to motor on with a compressor and a can of fix-a-flat!
 
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