I just put on my new DT Bypass Valve and I'm reassembling everything.
I didn't take notice of this hose clamp when I took it apart.
It seems fairly tight but is this as tight as the clamp gets or do I need to get the little hook on the end over the little part sticking out?
And if so, please give me a tip on how to do that.

 

I sent an email to DT asking about this and they said I should use the clamp that was in the box. But I didn't get a clamp in my box.

 

It doesn't look like that clamp is snapped in the locked position. The clamps for the air filter box are similar. I use a small screwdriver to unclamp them, and channel locks to get them to clamp tight again. The little hook needs to go over the part sticking out.

 

Correct.

But IMO it's worth paying a buck for a regular hose clamp at the auto parts store. Much easier.

 

Thanks guys. I'll try again with channel locks and if it's too much trouble I'll go get a regular one.

 

I've tried several times with channel locks. No Success!
Is there some tool for doing this besides channel locks?
I know that it would be cheaper to just buy a regular hose clamp but now I am curious how the pros put these things on every day.

 

Ok, sorry to beat a dead horse.
It looks like my "quick question" is turning into a long question.
I can't help it. I have to know how things work so this is turning into a lesson on hose clamps. lol
So I removed this hose clamp and after close inspection I think I had it on correctly.
Take a look at these pictures.
There is a little notch for the hook to fit in just before the part that sticks out.
This is where I had the hook and it felt secure.
If I try to put the hook over the top of the thing sticking out it is much less secure. And if I try to fit the hump over the thing sticking out it just slips off.
So I think I had it right the first time.
Have a look and see if you agree.

 

EDIT: Blimey was WRONG here.... I leave the evidence in place, because it almost never happens.
See correction in following posts.

It DOES go over the hump like your last photo - EXCEPT that the little slider strip in the bottom "layer" also has to through the slot in "top" layer.

So, no, it wasn't correct before.

In confined spaces, these clamps can be a real PITA - which is why I recommend you use a "normal" hose clamp for reassembly in this application.

 

I have had problems putting this clamp back on the air cleaner box and have used a neddle nosed plier which seemed to be the easiest. you have to make sure it is in the center when you try to close the clamp.

 

Sorry Blimey, but it does NOT go over the last hump. You would have to change the geometry of the clamp to make it stay in that position. I see dozens of these every day, and every single one of them comes from the factory just like the original picture showed. The last hump is there to pull the hook over the tab by way of a pliers or special tool. Any set of pliers usually works just fine, my favorite is a needle nose. Try a right angle pick tool to remove these; works great.

I prefer these to the "normal" screw-type hose clamps because when you become accustomed to them they are much faster and always hold the perfect amount of tension. There have been countless times that I have seen screw clamps over- or under-tightened. Under- causes leaks, and over- can crack brittle plastic (radiators, t-stats, hoses, vacuum/air lines) very easily.

 

I think that the confusion is caused because there are two different clams like this in the mini.
The one around the cold air induction hose connected to the top of the throttle body DOES go over the hump like blimey said.
That clamp is easy to put over the hump with channel locks because there is a split in the hook that goes around a little bump on the latch.
The channel locks touch the bump and allow enough space for the split hook to go over the hump.

But this one around the bypass valve hose is made differently.
There is no little bump on the latch.
It would be near impossible to put this one over the hump with a pair of channel locks.
I think it is supposed to hook like I had it in the first picture.
But I stand to be corrected.

 

Sorry guys. I stand corrected. Indeed I confused the two styles of clamps - the "snorkel" style clamp is what I was thinking about. Now I see it.

 

No problem Blimey!
I'm happy to understand how these things work now.

 

Wow, guess I was wrong too. Didn't realize there was a difference between the BPV clamp and the snorkel clamp...

 

Even the guy at DT told me the "inside tab slides into the outer tab then clips over the bump" but like miniRover38 said "You would have to change the geometry of the clamp to make it stay in that position."

It seems that most people just replace the clamp with a screw type clamp sice they can't get it to clip over the bump.

 

NO NO NO You had the clamp correct in your very first post. I know it doesn't feel very tight, but it was correct. I reuse those stock clamps when we replace them. You can use a regular clamp if you want it won't hurt, but don't stress too much, put it back the way you had it and go on.

 

Yep. These clamps are a PITA... but there is a reason for them... they maintain consistant pressure on the hose as it expands and contracts with temperature changes without cutting into the rubber like a worm-drive clamp can. Plus, if you have the tool to install them, they're much faster. I ended up with this tool sort of by accident when a bought a set of hose clamp pliers (that I didn't even buy to work on the MINI...).

 

I did. I put it back the way I had it and it's working fine.

Now my problem is that I let my MINI sit up for over a month and I'm having trouble with the battery.

 

I would get another clamp.

These clamps aren't really meant to be put back together once they're removed.

 

I never realized there were so many strong and differing opinions on hose clamps

 

Just wait until you ask us about tires. Or women.

 

.. or motor oil

 

Exactly