Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Low Speed Fan Resistor - we need solution

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  #126  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:26 PM
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I buy from Mouser all the time...

do you all think a kit to do this, with all the parts in one bag, would be usefull? If so, I could order stuff for about 20 of them, and do a manual, and put it on the FES site.... I don't think it would make me much money but might be usefull for everyone out there.

Let me know...

Matt
 
  #127  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
do you all think a kit to do this, with all the parts in one bag, would be usefull? If so, I could order stuff for about 20 of them, and do a manual, and put it on the FES site.... I don't think it would make me much money but might be usefull for everyone out there.

Let me know...

Matt

Not a bad idea.....would be a good option for "the next-time" if my aftermarket fan fails in the same manner as the OEM.
Heck....There might be an Independent shop I know of who might buy a couple.....some folks might like the option of a possible "permanent" repair.
You might be onto something!!
 
  #128  
Old 03-10-2010, 11:26 PM
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So what's the failure mode here? How does one know that their low speed isn't working?
 
  #129  
Old 03-11-2010, 09:11 AM
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Matt,

Thats a great idea.
When are you going to have this ready???

Sean
 
  #130  
Old 03-11-2010, 10:14 AM
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Matt,

I'd be interested too. Thanks!
 
  #131  
Old 03-11-2010, 10:47 AM
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Not sure...

I've got to do some homework to see what I can put a package together for. If it turns too expensive, I'll just put a parts list up and people can order for them selves. Really, it's got to make a little bit of money to cover the time that goes into it.

I'll post up when I figure it all out.

Matt
 
  #132  
Old 03-19-2010, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
So what's the failure mode here? How does one know that their low speed isn't working?
My guess is that there are a LOT of early R53s that have no low speed fans. The same ones with seal leaks, strut tower rubber supports gone and shot lower control arm bushings. To check turn on your A/C. The low speed fan should come on. When it goes to high speed you can hear it from the drivers seat.

Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
I've got to do some homework to see what I can put a package together for. ....
I'll post up when I figure it all out. Matt
Doc,

Any movement on this? It is warming up here in the north east and with the windows opening the high speed fan cycling is making me crazy. If you are not ready, off to Mouser I will be.

Clearly we can bring the low speed back with the information and great work that Chris did. Make that GREAT work.

That said for those of us with the removable relay (02-04) has anyone done that by just reaching down without having to take out the fan. Mine sticks occasionally and I don't mind taping it to get it to release. I have the relay ready once I have to go into service mode for something else.

Thanks again everyone. This is a great solution that I am SURE a lot of us need if we know it or not.

Rich
 
  #133  
Old 03-19-2010, 04:16 PM
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Mr. Wolfson - the problem is the resistor, not the relay. However, I have a question for Mr. Lamb - when the resistor fails does it develop a permanent short, or an open?
 
  #134  
Old 03-19-2010, 05:35 PM
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Open...

that's why the fan doesn't run.

Matt
 
  #135  
Old 03-19-2010, 05:41 PM
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But the fan does run, but only one speed, high, which means there is no resistance in the circuit. Right?
 
  #136  
Old 03-19-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
Mr. Wolfson - the problem is the resistor, not the relay. However, I have a question for Mr. Lamb - when the resistor fails does it develop a permanent short, or an open?
There are actually two problems. The resister burn out (open circuit) prevents the fan from going into low speed mode. The system sends power to the fan line with the resister in low speed, directly to the fan in high speed. This external resister will go in the low speed line and the output would go to the high speed line. All before the plug to the fan which is why this fix is perfect for the low speed fan problem. (Thank you Chris)

Then there is the high speed fan stay on problem. I have that too. That is the relay. If you look at the threads you'll see that the recommendation is to unplug the connector to prevent the battery from draining. What I found was that if I took a screwdriver and tapped the relay then it released and the fan goes off. On the 2002 and 2003 the relay was replaceable on the fan assembly. Latter models has the relay integral. The relay part number is #61360141229 and is good up to 3/03 builds. After that if the relay goes bad I think you have to change the entire fan assembly but I am not sure as Artoo is a 9/2002 build.

So, it is two problems. And if the good Doc didn't already buy a bunch of resisters I will get one and do the low speed fix first and get to replacing the relay when I can get at it more easily later.

Rich
 

Last edited by Rich.Wolfson; 03-21-2010 at 08:46 AM.
  #137  
Old 03-20-2010, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mcs287
ok guys when is the diy going to be posted...
? Check my posts.......
 
  #138  
Old 03-20-2010, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
Mr. Wolfson - the problem is the resistor, not the relay. However, I have a question for Mr. Lamb - when the resistor fails does it develop a permanent short, or an open?
it goes open circuit and so no low speed fan.
symptoms for me were a hot running car leading to heater matrix splitting open and dumping boiling coolant into the footwells....!
 

Last edited by chris.j.lamb; 03-20-2010 at 07:05 AM. Reason: speling
  #139  
Old 03-20-2010, 08:18 PM
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Just checked rockauto.com There are 2 fan assemblys. One is $70 and the other is $77. What is the part number for the newer fan? I might have to replace mine if it isn't a blown fuse.

I have an 04 MCS
 
  #140  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by R53 Speed
Just checked rockauto.com There are 2 fan assemblys. One is $70 and the other is $77. What is the part number for the newer fan? I might have to replace mine if it isn't a blown fuse.
I have an 04 MCS
You have the later fan. Up to 3/2003 builds have the older one with the replaceable relay.

///Rich
 
  #141  
Old 03-22-2010, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JAB 67
I bought mine from www.mouser.com. Mine is the 0.33 ohm version. part number 284-HS100-0.33. Cost me $15.00 plus shipping.
Careful!

a lower resistance means it will flow more current and so may give off more power + heat.
Check the maths.......
 
  #142  
Old 03-22-2010, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Rich.Wolfson
You have the later fan. Up to 3/2003 builds have the older one with the replaceable relay.

///Rich
Rich,
I also have an 04 which needs the a new fan. So you are saying get the $77 fan for the 04?
Rockauto shows both fans will work for an 04.
Thanks
 
  #143  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by thulchatt
Rich,
I also have an 04 which needs the a new fan. So you are saying get the $77 fan for the 04?
Rockauto shows both fans will work for an 04.
Thanks
I don't know which fan Rock Auto sells or if the older fan will fit the post 3/03 builds.

What I can tell you is that your MCS takes Mini part number 17117541092. I wouldn't trust that the older fans will fit newer models. At least one difference is the replaceable relay on the older fan.

Rich
 
  #144  
Old 04-01-2010, 05:35 PM
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I finally removed my fan assembly. I confirmed that the resistor has failed open. If I am to proceed with the remote resistor installation, I will use 14 gauge stranded wire. However, because it was such a pain in the *** to get out, I may just go with a whole new assembly; I would be mighty disappointed if after all this work some other aspect of the fan assembly (e.g., the fan motor itself) failed in the near future.
 
  #145  
Old 04-01-2010, 05:47 PM
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For those that have gone the RockAuto route, any regrets? They list three prices (at least for model year 2004, like mine): $70 from TYC, $77 from 'various manufacturers,' and $121 from Four Seasons but that is listed as a single speed motor - not sure why. Thoughts?
 
  #146  
Old 04-02-2010, 08:05 AM
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I got the tyc from rock auto for my 05...they only had 2 choices...the early fan, and the newer fan...they listed all as various manfacures.
Going on 2+ years...all is fine...was an exact copy of the oem from what I can tell....had it in about 2 buissiness days, standard shipping.
I would stay away from the single speed one...sounds like they just skipped putting in the lowspeed resisotor...you could just cut out the resistor on yours, I think, jumper the spot with a piece of wire, and it would likely be the same thing...would run on hi when low was called....and hi when hi was called. Loud...and I'm the fan's life would be adversly affected.
 
  #147  
Old 04-02-2010, 08:49 AM
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Chris, I tried to follow your posts but a little over my head.

+1 on the DIY
 
  #148  
Old 04-05-2010, 02:54 PM
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My fan is going to die sometime this summer, my mechanic verified. If I order a new fan, do I have to remove front bumper cover, lower radiator hose, etc?
Can someone point me to a DIY?
Thanks all.
 
  #149  
Old 04-05-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonzr1
My fan is going to die sometime this summer, my mechanic verified. If I order a new fan, do I have to remove front bumper cover, lower radiator hose, etc?
Can someone point me to a DIY?
Thanks all.
Sounds like that mechanic is full of crap....electrical components work, or they don't....they work till they fail....and wear is usually not apparent...especially when they fail due to a defect. External apperance of an item, especially an electrical item, provides little or no clue to the internal condition of a fan motor/resistor!
There are several....even in this thread...a quick search will get you a few...some basic...some more in depth with photo's depending on your comfort level with working on a car.
Yes...you do need to remove the bumper cover AND BUMPER....and the AC condenser (but not disconnected or drained).
 
  #150  
Old 04-05-2010, 06:46 PM
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Its the upper radiator hose, not the lower, that needs to be removed.
 


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