MCS slave cylinder help
MCS slave cylinder help
Hi folks,
My first post, I lurk here most of the times.
I have a 05 MCS that has just had a slave cylinder failure. I picked up a new slave and installed it today. The brake line was a PITA to get out of the old slave, and after installing it in the new one, I bled the system (reverse bleed from the bleeder valve like someone suggested here) and then I got in the car, pedal to the floor. I got down and manually pressed the pedal, pulled it up, and I could hear some squishing, so I get back under the car, and it looks like the interface where the brake line goes into the slave is not seated correctly.
So I pull the metal retaining clip, pull the line out, and put it back in, try the pedal again, still making the squishing noise and pedal falls to the floor.
Any suggestions? Am I looking at replacing the fluid line?
TIA
WC
My first post, I lurk here most of the times.
I have a 05 MCS that has just had a slave cylinder failure. I picked up a new slave and installed it today. The brake line was a PITA to get out of the old slave, and after installing it in the new one, I bled the system (reverse bleed from the bleeder valve like someone suggested here) and then I got in the car, pedal to the floor. I got down and manually pressed the pedal, pulled it up, and I could hear some squishing, so I get back under the car, and it looks like the interface where the brake line goes into the slave is not seated correctly.
So I pull the metal retaining clip, pull the line out, and put it back in, try the pedal again, still making the squishing noise and pedal falls to the floor.
Any suggestions? Am I looking at replacing the fluid line?
TIA
WC
wchain,
Are you leaking fluid at this connection? If so, make sure the rubber seal at the end of the line is in place. It may be stuck in old slave cylinder or may have flew off when you disconnected it the first time.
Now to bleed the system, the slave pushrod must be completly compressed ( put a piece of wood between pushrod and clutch lever). If you have a pressure bleeder your in luck. If not go to auto parts store( auto zone,pepboys, etc) and buy a GM master cylinder bleed tool,looks like large syringe, around $10.Next pull the line from master cylinder reservior,cap nipple to reduce fluid lose.Fill bleed tool with brake fluid, open bleed screw on slave cylinder, insert bleed tool into line feeding clutch master cylinder,push fluid through until all air is gone( may have to fill tool twice) close bleeder. Reconnect line to reservior,top up fluid,remove piece of wood installed before(important note here!!- keep pushrod as straight as possable,if it wobbles too much it will leak). This worked for me two different times. Hope this helps, Jeff
Are you leaking fluid at this connection? If so, make sure the rubber seal at the end of the line is in place. It may be stuck in old slave cylinder or may have flew off when you disconnected it the first time.
Now to bleed the system, the slave pushrod must be completly compressed ( put a piece of wood between pushrod and clutch lever). If you have a pressure bleeder your in luck. If not go to auto parts store( auto zone,pepboys, etc) and buy a GM master cylinder bleed tool,looks like large syringe, around $10.Next pull the line from master cylinder reservior,cap nipple to reduce fluid lose.Fill bleed tool with brake fluid, open bleed screw on slave cylinder, insert bleed tool into line feeding clutch master cylinder,push fluid through until all air is gone( may have to fill tool twice) close bleeder. Reconnect line to reservior,top up fluid,remove piece of wood installed before(important note here!!- keep pushrod as straight as possable,if it wobbles too much it will leak). This worked for me two different times. Hope this helps, Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you for the reply.
I'll go in with the pick and see if I can find that rubber seal.
If I can't find it am I screwed? Or is this part available?
I have the wood block rigged up already with the piston all the way compressed.
and I do have a pressure bleeder as well.
Thanks for the reply.
Anyone else have any insight?
Thank you for the reply.
I'll go in with the pick and see if I can find that rubber seal.
If I can't find it am I screwed? Or is this part available?
I have the wood block rigged up already with the piston all the way compressed.
and I do have a pressure bleeder as well.
Thanks for the reply.
Anyone else have any insight?
I'm experiencing some issues with speed sensor, joint axle, and a crack in the slave cylinder. Perhaps lowering the car to an extreme (low) ride height may not have been the best idea. Right now the stealership is charging $9,000 (count the zeros) for the repairs. Can I repair the crack in the slave cylinder or do i need a new transmission (as suggested by the dealership)?
Mister Wiggles, the slave Cylinder is a $50 part from the dealership and has ZERO effect on the rest of the tranny. Also, if that particular part has a crack i think there would be other issues; ie a non-working clutch.
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