I know.... another thread. But I've searched all 100 of these and this one's different!

I can buy a new Bushing WITH the bracket for $53.95 (#7&8 below), compared to just the bushing @ $46.95 (bavauto.com). Makes sense to me, and wouldn't require the special BMW puller.

So my question is....Is there a way to simply unbolt/install the complete bracket without dropping the subframe, removing ball joints, etc? Haven;t seen this asked yet,

Thanks!!

 

It can be done without completely removing the subframe, but you have to remove the bolts (# 3 in the diagram) then lower just the back. Still requires some gymnastics to remove to the bolts that hold the LCA bushing carrier.

 

You have to pull the subframe down, no way around it. But you can get away with only pulling it down part way, but you have to be carefull not to damage the P/S lines.

If you want the Powerflex bushings we offer them already pressed into brackets. Just call and we will set up the core return with you.

 

Thanks!

I actually picked up the parts from the local BMW dealer... I'm in Canada and all prices evened out after considering the exchange/shipping costs, and a bit of bartering. I am also hesitant about the Powerflex bushings based on what I've read. But I now have 2 sets of brackets, I'm thinking this will be a common repair item with the potholes in the city.

Back to the questions... It sounds like I can simply remove/loosen the rear subframe bolts, which will provide clearance to get a wrench in there. How much play is there before I need to worry about Steering/PS lines, etc.?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I've found that there's just something about these cars that doesn't play friendly with the weekend mechanic. This sounds too easy, so must I be missing something.

 

The bolts in the bushing carrier bracket require 122 ft-lb torque to secure. There’s not much room for leverage by only loosening the subframe to body bolts. For the first time you do this, drop the subframe and roll it out, if you can see a better way fine, you’ll be prepared for the second time the bushings need replacement. Don’t forget the bushing carrier bracket to body bolt is a single use, use a new bolt, tighten last to 44 ft-lb + 90 degrees. It is a common mistake to think all the bolts are 74 ft-lb and then strip or break those two.

 

yes I am stupid but which bolts need what torques ? the nice picture of the sub frame has numbers to the bolts . I would hate to strip any of those bolts. 122ftlbs is a lot of torque. I also wonder if anybody has gone from the alta system back to powerflex bushing or even back to stock,because of noise or vibration

 

Oh.I also wonder If added castor from alta's solid bushing causes too much stress on the electric power steering motor?

 

I used the poly bushings and returned to OE rubber; I like rubber better. The bolts I mentioned with the torque angle spec, #11 in the diagram above. A how-to https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-install.html . I do this often and I've fabricated a tool for removing and installing the arm from the OE bushing; a long arm three claw puller can also perform the task.

 

If you get a a chance can you show us a picture of your tool?

 

if you don't mind my asking, what lead you to discover the worn LCA bushing? I have a mysterious shimmy in my steering wheel that resembles a front wheel out of balance, but I know for certain it is not the wheels/tires. I haven't had a chance yet to get the car up to search. I just happened across your thread and wondered could my problem be something similar. Even better. this shimmy is intermittent.

 

Its in his thread. Click the link.

 

I now do things a little differently than what I showed in the how-to, for instance, I remove the bracket and arm from the subframe, do the arm R&R on a table with the tool shown in the attachment, and the bushing R&R in a bench vise with the OEM tool. I designed the helper tool to be used with the subframe on the vehicle, but since I do the job on my back I found it easier for me to drop the subframe, instead of pulling the drive shafts, dealing with that cumbersome thirty pound tool, and awkward position required to R&R the bushing using the OEM tool while under the body (lots of quarter turn ratcheting followed by an open-end wrench).

The reason I pull the driveshaft is to remove the inner ball joint bracket’s forward bolt, the rear bolt can be reached, but the driveshaft boot blocks the other bolt. There is one NAM member I know who only loosens that bolt an inch and is able to R&R the arm from/to the bushing; I’ve had mixed results from that method, and I can’t do a good health check of the inner ball joint with it dangling like that.

 

I have a big brake kit and 50000 miles,a lot of track time and solo 1. so i knew the bush would be bad but I jacked up the front end and with the wheels off the ground i coulld push the wheel back over an inch. pasenger side was worse than driver side. also had more tire wear on the pasenger side. It's time to go poly i think. thanks for the great pictures on the other thread. K-huevo , thank you. any thoughts on steering motor stress with alta castor increase?

 

Anyone have recommendations or tips not included here; http://www.outmotoring.com/images/ho..._PSRS_gen1.pdf

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVH4Sy-s2PE

I get this going forward and backwards alternating. Quite audible and can feel it too esp. at slow speeds. Will not happen if don't go the opposite direction 1st. Thus dont hear it under normal driving conditions. Only after say going in reverse then forward again and vice-versa.