Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Engine flat spots at 2,000 - 3,000 RPM

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #1  
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Engine flat spots at 2,000 - 3,000 RPM

Car: Mini Cooper S 2005 58,000 miles, Cold air intake.

Well this started about 2 months ago. My engine runs fine but if i slam on it around 2,000 RPM (in any gear but rare in 1st and 2nd), my engine cuts out for about a milisecond a bunch of times before i hit 3,000 RPM's. Right about at 3,000 its fine. It feels as if im hitting bumps or rough spots on the road.

I fixed my intake hose and thought it went away but can still feel it. I pushed down on the spring on my by pass valve and it sound fine, smooth and without noise so my spring doesnt seem to be broke. Im just wondering if you guys have any ideas at all what this could be? Thanks!!!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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is it an oiled filter?...check the MAF
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Yes it is as far as i know, the alta cold air intake. how would i do that exactly? Thanks
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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No need. First gen don't have one.

Check your coil leads for any corrosion. Check your plugs.

Then you might want to disconnect the battery for 10 mins or so to reset the ecu. Some folks have reported that this can help.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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What are you doing slamming it at 2,000 rpm?

Downshift.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigshot
No need. First gen don't have one.

ohhh. my woops
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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I diconnected my battery and it didnt solve it. Also i shouldnt have said floor it, it happens then the most but it also happens at half throttle or a little more. Dont worry i downshift when needed hahah. Just wondering why it is doing this.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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In the past few days I experienced a similar situation, although it is with my 2003 R50. I installed a K&N Typhoon two years ago and removed it after several months because it created a flat accelation spot from 2000-3800rpm.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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Should i buy a K&N cone filter? Think this would work? I dont want to swap my intake again.

Any other ideas why a filter would perform like this? Would it be harmful to run it for about 10 mins without a filter to see if the problem goes away? Thanks much guys.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Don't waste you money on the K&N, foam is a much better filter. Oil shouldn't be a problem for the first gen cars, but you could always use a bit of Seaform to clean out the intake. You could run it a bit w/o the filter with no problem as long as it isn't on a dusty or dirty road.

Just a bit of info on oiling the foam filters..........only use enough to make the surface tacky and make sure you don't have any areas with too much oil. Work it around so it is evenly distributed. This is much easier to do than with a pleated filter. That is why you hear of so many problems with K&N filters oiling up the intakes, no easy way of massaging the oil around.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hiyoslvr
In the past few days I experienced a similar situation, although it is with my 2003 R50. I installed a K&N Typhoon two years ago and removed it after several months because it created a flat accelation spot from 2000-3800rpm.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
Swapping intakes quickly without resetting the ecu will always cause performance issues. Try it again, resetting the ecu after each change.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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no k&n problems here . i like !!!!!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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nabeshin,
Good point. I'll reset again.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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I took the intake off and nothing changed, so it isnt the filter im assuming.
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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What exactly would i look for when checking the plugs and is there a certain way to put them back in, or just screw them in to a specific torque? Thanks i just dont want to mess up anything more.

I tried an STP complete fuel system cleaner and nothing changed. Im assuming its the plugs so im gonna check them next.
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 03:30 AM
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It is your wires. I denied that as my problem for forever, and I had th exact same symptoms. I called it the 2500 pop, because it was almost exactly 2500 and then cleared up after 3-4k. Same as you, it never happened in first, second or rarely in third. I progressively got worse. Theres really no way to tell the wires are bad by looking at them. If i were rich i'd buy you wires, as thats how convinced I am that it's your problem.
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 05:10 AM
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Hahahah well thanks. Ill look into getting them then and ill let you know what happens. RMW says to go with stock, does anyone disagree and have a different brand? Or is stock the best ones out there? Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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Stock are very good. Only reason to get something else is if you want the bling factor.......
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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Okay. Got the stock plug wires couple days ago and they work perfect, no more flat spots anywhere! Amazing! Thanks much, second to none.
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 02:04 AM
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No Way! A conclusion to a story for once !

I'll be looking into some spark plugs and sp wires soon.

Originally Posted by jollyroger927
Okay. Got the stock plug wires couple days ago and they work perfect, no more flat spots anywhere! Amazing! Thanks much, second to none.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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I have an 06 R50. Have noticed that this happens to me sometimes. How do I reset the ecu
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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Disconnect the battery. Wait a while, then re-connect it.
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 07:10 AM
  #23  
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This does absolutely nothing for the ECU. The speedo reset or disconecting the battery is false.

Check out this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ecu-tune.html
 
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Old May 15, 2009 | 08:25 AM
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Nice, thanks for the info.
 
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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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you might want to check the CrankVentilation hose it may be a cracked hose and or some times on the "S" the vaccum pressure coming off the hood it's the best when cruisin in the "S" but you should down shift and get the RPM's I recommend are for engine response 3500-4500 unless you want to save MPG.
 
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