Charging system error - alternator replacement - 2004 Cooper (non-S)

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Mar 18, 2009 | 10:19 AM

owl

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2nd Gear

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Alternator replacement - 2004 Cooper CVT (non-S) - done w/o tensioner tool

Hello all,
I have had some recent issues with my stock 2004 Cooper non-S, auto tranny. I'll post one issue here.

My battery dash light came on yesterday while driving in normal conditions. I went to a local Kragen (auto shop) and got the charging system tested. The battery has the "green eye" and the Kragen tool seemed to verify the battery is OK. The tool gave an error similar to "Charging System Error" - which from my experience points to the alternator.

The belt seems to be OK, no rattling.

Has anyone else experienced an alternator failure on their Coopers? My cooper is quite young:
- 2004
- base non-S
- 40,500 miles

----

Regarding a DIY job - will I need the BMW special tools to release and lock tension on the accessory belt or can I just use my hand to cause slack and remove the belt and do the same when replacing the belt?

Last edited by owl; Mar 21, 2009 at 09:02 PM. Reason: more helpful title for future searches

Mar 20, 2009 | 08:17 PM

owl

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From: SF, CA

I've currently got the wheel liner off the front passenger tire area and I can't figure out how to temporarily release the tension yet... (without the BMW special tool) - is there some way to improvise or fabricate a tool (what are the specs)? otherwise, can I get a similar tool from a local auto store (Kragens or similar)?

All right, I've found some info. I think for this time I'll just improvise with the crow bar suggestion...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oner-tool.html

This looks like the best DIY alternator instructions I've found:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lternator.html

Last edited by owl; Mar 21, 2009 at 07:56 PM.

Mar 21, 2009 | 08:57 PM

owl

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2nd Gear

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From: SF, CA

hopefully this can help someone in the future - non-S CVT alternator removal/install

I'm done! Fortunately, the real problem was the alternator, so I didn't have to trouble shoot any further after I confirmed the battery light turned off after testing with the new alternator.

It took me 5 hours total, with no assistant. Much of the time was spent trying to figure out how to release the tension, since I did not have any tensioner tool, and it seems the Cooper S uses a different tensioner and layout than the non-S Cooper (all the pictures found on NAM are different than what I see in my car). Thanks to Chadtoolio, for most of the instructions needed for my CVT non-S Cooper. I'd estimate if I had to do this again (for the second time) it would take me between 1.5-2 hours.

I reused my belt because it was not stretched, not cracking, and not glazed. I had no tensioner hole bar to see, apparently because the non-S CVT tensioner is different (I looked everywhere and the pictures on NAM did not match my tensioner).

Please see below for my modified version of instructions and my easy, low risk way to release the tension on the tensioner without a special tensioner tool (used one 1/4" hex socket bit, a 2' "J" crowbar and a standard $15 floor jack).

---
(credit to Chadtoolio for the great start for my car with instructions for DIY for a Cooper S - below is my modified version for the non-S CVT alternator DIY)
(original post)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lternator.html
(modified version)

1. Remove front bumper cover

1. Raise vehicle & support - I used jackstands so that I could remove the wheels for easier access to the wheel liners - it makes the removal of three wheel liner fasteners on each wheel well to separate the lines from the Modular Front End (MFE)

2. Remove splash shield under engine. 3 10mm hex bolts, 2 philips screws

3. Remove two black 10mm hex bolts, one on each side near the vertical adjustment bolt, holding bumper cover to MFE

4. Remove two philips screws, one on each bottom corner of bumper, securing bumper to lower spoiler

5. Remove two T-30 bolts holding the bumper cover to the MFE/Core radiator support

6. Disconnect fog lights, turn signals, parking lamps, & outside temperature sensor

7. Lift off bumper cover

2. Remove Front bumper carrier

1. Pull out electrical harness for outside temperature sensor

2. Remove two 16mm bolts on each side from crush stand tubes to subframe

3. Remove two black 10mm bolts, one on each side) from cruch tube to Radiator core support (near bottom corners of carrier)

4. (addon for CVT) remove, on each side of bumper carrier, two 13mm hex caps and one 13mm hex bolt holding the carrier and the radiator core support to the frame of the car (you'll need a deep well 13mm socket)

5. Lift out bumper carrier w/crush tubes (watch for cables or hoses to be snagged)

3. (DOES NOT APPLY TO CVT non-S) pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.

1. (my addon) removed front two wheels for easier access to wheel liners

2. (but this still applies to CVT non-S) Detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE (I detached the passenger side wheel liner completely to have easier access to the alternator and belt, but I only removed three plastic fasteners on the driver's side wheel liner to the MFE)

4. (I did not do this) Disconnect horn wire on RH side,

5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

1. (my addon) Added a bucket to catch coolant, and had some rags or paper towels on hand

2. (my addon) plugged up radiator upper hole with paper towel after removing radiator hose from upper radiator - did this since I had my coolant flushed recently, so I wanted as little coolant to come out as possible

6. Pull Rad. core support out to gain access.

1. Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 (m8 x 1.25 pitch) bolts to support the Rad Core support - I only had 80mm bolts, since no local stores had 100mm bolts

2. slide Radiator core support forward - you may want to disconnect the plastic "U" hose brackets holding the lower radiator hoses together as you are under the car to give more clearance

7. Disconnect battery (just the negative terminal)

8. Remove alt belt

1. Remove fuel tank vent valve

a. disconnect upper and lower vent hoses via quick fit connectors (air will hiss out and you will smell a little fuel)

b. (CVT addon) loosen the upper 13mm bolt near the vent valve holding the grounding cable to chasis to allow access to remove the vent valve

c. straighten retaining tab with pliars and pull vent valve out

d. remove electrical harness connector from vent valve

2. (CVT addon - without special tool) remove belt

a. insert 1/4" hex socket bit into the square hole in the CVT tensioner

b. with the straight end of the crowbar (I had a "J" crowbar, a straight crowbar would be better) fit in between the hex socket bit with one hand, use the other hand to position the floor jack and start pumping the jack up slowly with the crowbar at a slight angle - use your two feet to hold the floor jack from sliding as you pump

c. as the tensioner goes up, bend the belt until you are able to side it off of at least one pulley (mark the belt to note direction if you are going to try to reuse the belt)

d. with your feet still in place to hold the floor jack from sliding, release the pressure from the floor jack to lower the jack and crowbar

e. remove the rest of the belt

9. Remove alternator

1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the harness - find the wire on top of the alternator and follow it to the left and slightly up, when facing the back of the car with the alternator in front of you

2. remove the harness from the bracket (be careful here as I snapped the plastic guide rail on the harness - there's a retaining tab, and the harness slides downward - the electrical harness from step A slides upwards)

3. (Bentley shows one upper and two lower bolts, mine was the opposite) Remove the upper two bolts and lower one bolt with a 10mm hex socket bit

4. pull the alternator out slightly and tilt it to the side - remove the 10mm hex bolt holding the B positive wire to the alternator

5. slide out the MFE/radiator support as far out as possible and pull the alternator upwards and out

6. remove the electrical harness and cable from the alternator

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Reinstall going in reverse order.
* When reinstalling the bumper carrier and crush tubes to the radiator core support/chasis, install first the two T-30 bumper cover bolts to align the bumper carrier to the MFE/radiator core support, otherwise your bumper cover may not fit back on after you tighten the bumper carrier. After tightening the 13mm and 16mm bolts from step 2, remove the two T-30 bolts and proceed with the bumper cover installation.

Last edited by owl; Mar 22, 2009 at 09:31 AM.