Last night, my 02 Mini Cooper (CVT) died on the way home, it started with the "Battery" light indicating a voltage/charging issue, but within a few miles I'd lost power steering, and had airbags, parking brakes, etc... going crazy.

So, get towed home, and check the voltage, the battery is drained. But, it's a 1 year old Interstate battery, so that shouldn't be the issue. Let's charge it anyway. After a couple hours @ 10Amps the battery has a 12V charge, let it finish off overnight with a 2A trickle charge.

In diagnosing the issue, I start the car, then disconnect the negative battery terminal while car is still running. The car stalls. Hmmm, I then use a voltmeter to measure the battery when car is off (12.5V) and when the car is on (12.4V). So this screams bad alternator to me.

In looking on NAM's boards I see that , chadtoolio in this post said.
But, if I follow the Bentley Mini Cooper Service Manual steps on "Alternator, removing and installing (Cooper)", I don't remove the bumper, but need a "special tool 11 8 390 to release drive belt tension" and a "lock pin (special tool 11 8 280) to lock drive belt tensioner" and have to do the following...

1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove fuel tank vent valve
3. Remove Splash Shield
4. Remove right front wheel
5. Remove right front wheel housing liner
6. Release tension using "special tools"
7. Remove intake manifold
8. Then disconect the alternator and remove

So, these two steps aren't even similar except the belt & alternator part. So, does anyone have more details?

Also, has anyone used an OEM (non-Mini) alternator? The Mini part is $400, then OEM is $160.

Scott

 

HAhh, theres more than one way to skin a cat....I never even read the repair instructions that were suggested by MINI. I have replaced a few alternators on them over the 6 years of working on them and have always done them my way. However, I just read them and it is exactly how the Bently suggests. I will say that doing it the way that I suggested is very easy and the instructions don't differ in between the "S" and non "S" models. Do which ever way works for you... FYI though, it only takes me about 15 minutes to remove the entire front bumper and every thing needed to get to the Alt.

Chad

 

don't forget to install the new one HAHAHa

 

I dont have a clue how to do it on the Mini but I rebuilt the motor on my Bronco not to long ago and I am good with mechanical things. I would come give you a hand if you needed it. I am in Escondido.

 

Well, after getting pricing from Brecht Mini for the 2002 R50 alternator ($525 after discount) and online from ToeOut Performance for $353, I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100 and called another place European Auto Center in Poway (closer to me) for their estimate of $650. I think I'm going to let EAC do it for $650. It would too many days to have ToeOut ship to me and then do it myself, and EAC is only $125 more than the Brecht parts only price. So... I'm solved for now...

Plus, with my CVT I'd need to do a few extra steps...

But since I have built a longer detailed steps for both options in case anyone else needed it, I'll post them here. ENJOY!

Here's the two options spelled out...

1. Remove front bumper cover2. Remove Front bumper carrier3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side,
5. Disconnect CVT radiator & cap lines6. Remove front crush tubes
7. Remove bolt mounting each tube to the MFE
8. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.9. Disconnect battery
10. Remove alt belt11. Remove alternatorWhen reinstalling, don't forget to do the following...
1. Replace radiator hose clamp
2. top off CVT fluid
3. top off & bleed cooling system

1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Disconnect battery
3. Remove fuel tank vent valve4. Remove splash shield under engine 3 bolts, 2 screws
5. Remove Right font wheel
6. Remove Right front wheel housing liner
7. Remove alt belt8. Remove Intake Manifold9. Remove alternatorWhen reinstalling, don't forget to do the following...
1. replace intake manifold profile gaskets
2. torque manifold to cylinder head to 26 Nm
3. Coat fuel injector sealing o-rings with anti seize agent
4. torque fuel rail to intake manifold to 25 Nm
5. Replace sealing ring between throttle valve assembly and intake manifold
6. torque throttle valve assembly to intake manifold to 9 Nm
7. torque air filter housing to body 7-10 Nm
8. Replace air duct clamp

 

1. Remove front bumper cover
2. Remove Front bumper carrier
3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side.
5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

6. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.7. Disconnect battery

8. Remove alt belt, using 3/8ths ratchet in tensioner(you need the special tool if you have an "S"9. Remove alternator

 

I bow before your greatness!


By the way, I just heard from EAC, that Brecht (the place they were getting the alternator from) doesn't have the right one for my car, even though their computer says it's the right part, it doesn't fit. So, they have to get the part from another place, and it'll be in on Tuesday.

C'est la vie, would have happened to me if I did it myself.

Scott

 

Why not ****** the alternator off the car and take it to a starter/alternator shop and get the original unit rebuilt? You'll save a ton of money, and you'll be certain it'll fit, because it came off the same car.

Rawhyde

 

Do You have picture of these special tools?

 

You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just extend the front bumper/radiator and you'll have enough room to remove the alternator.

 

Hate to drag up a thread that's 5 months old, but I have to say thanks for the write-up!
My girlfriend's '05 had the alternator go bad, and I was wondering how I'd go about doing this. I haven't actually replaced it yet (we're going to pick up the new alternator later today, when the money decides to go home to the bank...), but I've taken the car apart in anticipation. I didn't do everything exactly, but this still helped immensely!

 

So you gotta drain the cooling system? I don't see that as a step in your writeup. No?

 

I have an 03 MCS that has just succumb to the alternator failure. I have already purchase a reman'd alternator from Alternator Pro for $270 fedex'd & no core charge. I will look into taking photos & using chadtoolio's method and posting up here at a later date.......all going well !!

 

Good luck with the alternator...I recall a member that got 3 bad ones from that place if I remember right before they gave up and got one from the dealer...price and warrenty seemed good from the website though!! Maybe it was just bad luck.

 

Yeah, I am a little skeptical, so I will see how it all pans out. I have kept the old one & may just have that rebuilt. Will keep all posted.

 

Great post chadtoolio, I compared the Bentley procedure with chadtoolio's. Super simple, remember to detach both wheel well covers. I swung the entire assembly out, hinged the assembly from the left side (drivers) alternator end a lot further out for access & rested it on a jack stand. While I was in there I changed out my radiator fan as well, due it only having high speed.
Over all the job took about 2hrs, fairly straight forward. I have some photos along the way, I will edited them & put them in my gallery for anyone interested.

 

This is a 2004 R50 with CVT Tranny...

I used the below method and it worked great for me. I did not touch the drivers side wheel liner though as others have suggested be removed. I could angle out the radiator enough to get a wrench on the alternator and replace it.

I didn't know what some of it meant but I figured it out. It's not insanely hard, just you gotta remember where all screws and bolts go and get the bumper in place BEFORE you start fully tightening down bolts because if you tighten them too early, other parts won't slide on correctly.

I took just 3 pics during the process of doing it.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm in Atlanta, so locals could possibly ask me for help.

 

Thanks guys, this was a helpful thread! With a helper, we also used DavidBauder's method. The whole process took about 2 hours. It's actually easier than it looks, which is a testament to the mini MFE being a good design. One of the hardest parts was fishing for a marker light wire after it was all buttoned up ;D

 

does anyone know anything about the "special tool" required on S models for the tensioner? I don't want to pull everything apart to find out it really is a special tool and not a ratchet end or something lol.

 

You can use a 16mm socket and a long pry bar to release tension and stick a Allen key in the second hole. Their are write ups on alternative methods to releasing the tension on Nam. Should of read this b4 buying the tool lol.

Good$$Mendez

 

Hey NAM folks,

My daughter's alternator decided to croak last night. Just beginning my research to add to Daddy's Mini Repair's skill set.....

I found this video on Youtube.


That is more or less what I thought when first looking at it this morning. Now going through this post, I am not super interested in removing the front of the vehicle. I found a reman locally for $204, and there is a shop that will do a rebuild for $95 in half a day.

Any opinions on the removal process outlined by this guy?

Thanks

Mike
Lead Technician - Daddy's Mini Repair Svc

 

In response to my own question....

I have no idea how that guy in the youtube video was able to get to the bottom bolt on the alternator. I currently have the front end about 2/3 off. My hands, nor any of my tools were going to pull that off... This is not a simple job in my opinion, and I cannot imagine it being done in two hours unless we were dealing with a relatively new vehicle. As this one has 163k on it, it's going to take a bit.

More later.

 

Hey guys, new member here. I found you by doing a Google search for how to remove and replace my alternator. I came across the instructions below and steps 1+2 went very quickly and easily.

Now I'm stuck on step three (Pull 4 clips out of RH rad support) and I don't know what to do next.

Here is where I am stuck:
-I found (2) of the little plastic star clips attching my passenger side wheel well to the plastic around the radiator. Not 4.

- It says detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE? What is MFE and if I need to remove the liner from both wheel wells, wouldn't I have needed to remove the clips on both sides, not just the RH side?

- 6 says pinstall two 100mm m8 bolts to support rad core support? What bolts? I need to go buy some?? Where do I put them?

So confused.











1. Remove front bumper cover2. Remove Front bumper carrier3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side.
5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

6. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.7. Disconnect battery

8. Remove alt belt, using 3/8ths ratchet in tensioner(you need the special tool if you have an "S"

9. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.

 

You can do some searching on this forum to get a better idea of how the MFE or Modular Front End works, think of it like a barn gate that you can take off the hinges. Your radiator is in the center of the gate. Once it's removed or swung open, the engine and inner chassis is more accessible.

 

More than 1 way to skin a cat... I seem to recall many folks would jack the car up, remove the tire, wheel well liner, and shields, then disconnect the CV joint....then swap the alternator.
You might want too look at one of the guide to "service mode"...
A girls guide to service mode was the title too one.....was pretty good.