So, I didn't get any reply's so was trying to get a different approach to my problem.

I put the car in the dealership, and for about 3-5 days they couldn't find the problem. And when they did, they said they had to change short block (and/or) the long block. They said the parts were on back order, (it's now been a week).

googled what the short block&long block were, and found out that it was pretty much the engine. so i'm worried if it'll have problems again. The dealership said many of the parts came, but the short block is expected to be released on august 4th. Someone else have this problem?

AHHHH need help.
So pretty much I had engine problems (started to lose power, exhaust sounded differently, and engine started to get louder, especially at start up).

 

Block? I thought this generally meant the motor itself...

Are they replacing your whole motor? I'm very confused.

 

I could be wrong but a short block is basically the engine block, crank and pistons. they have to swap over the old head oilpan and all other items necessary to make the engine complete.

long block is basically the entire engine.

If there isn't a problem with the head then the short block would be the way to go.

If this is covered under warranty i wouldn't worry about it too much especially if it is coming from the dealer.

You will be basically getting a new engine so I would be happy.

What exactly did they say was the cause of the issue?

 

haha sorry if i didn't make it clear, (the dealership guy didn't exactly know what was wrong... or at least isn't telling me all the way), but they said that the long block needs to be replaced(?) and they were thinking about fixing the short block, and see if that'll fix it.

that's pretty much all i know. so i'll try to give them a call and ask in detail what was wrong with my car.

well i would be happy, but i'm more concered because what happens if this problem happens again without my warranty... would i be kinda screwd ?

 

What is the issue you are having with the engine?

And no not really if there is a problem with your engine it was probably a rare manufacturing oops, your new engine should be fine.

 

the engine started to get really loud at start ups, they're was the normal ticking, and then there was a louder ticking (from the engine) that comes and goes.

when i' in the car, i really have to gas it for me to change gears.. feels like a major loss of power. uhm and my exhaust sounded like it was gargling water.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuzuS86Z3qY&NR=1 (you can hear what i mean about the engine sound being louder (sounds like a washing mashine) right before i rev it).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmEWa...eature=related
and here is a clip of my car wanting to be a subie... but yeah nothing really sounded the way it should be and i also get a check engine light.


Btw does this mean that i'm going to have to break in my car?

does the mileage change back to zero?

 

Yes, anytime you have new rings (make the 'seal' between pistons and cylinders), you need to assure that they are properly 'seated'. Cylinder walls have a 'cross-hatch' pattern applied to aid in this function and if they become 'glazed' (or worn smooth) before rings have seated the only solution is to grind a new cross-hatch and new rings.

It is acceleration, not high RPM that applies the pressure to seat the rings. Especially avoid prolonged idling and steady speed cruising, vary your speed and use higher power at lower RPM than 'normal' driving.

With Automatic, you can use 'manual' mode and allow higher power to be used at lower RPM. Avoid 'full-throttle' but do use ¾ throttle a lot for the first few miles, short accelerations immediately followed by decelerations in gear works best.

Keep watch on your oil level as well as any 'gas' smell in that oil (rings keep them apart) and perform an 'early' oil change as soon as possible after 'break-in'.

Mileage at engine change is entered into your maintenance records, but is not returned to 'zero' so you need to keep 'track' of those 'critical' first miles after 'ring-change'. MINI considers "Break-In" mileage to be 1200, but the first 60 would be more 'critical' than the last 600, it would take a 'leakage' test to confirm ring seating at lower mileage.

 

Yes you'll need to break it in again because you'll have a new block. The mileage on your rebuilt engine is not the same as 0 though, since you'll have the same head, water pump, ect which will heave wear on them.

The above post by pilotart has some good advice. I'll just add that leaving the car in gear to decelerate when coming to a stop also is beneficial to breaking in the rings. Changing the oil really early is debatable. It doesn't hurt of course to change it and many will advice for or against doing it. I'll do my first around 4-5k.

 

Thanks for clarifying "leaving in gear to decelerate.. ."
_______________________________________________

Hopefully without traffic behind you, it would be good to go from 40 to 60 mph at high power (and high gear) to create high Brake Mean Effective Pressure (on rings) and immediately 'coast-in-gear' back to 40 for cooling and 'washing' of cylinder walls.

I suppose a lot of reason for 'early' oil change dates back to use of "Break-In" motor oil, my MA told me that MINI Factory did a preliminary run and break-in oil drop before production completion.

Other reasons for early oil change would be higher than normal fuel dilution before ring-seat (should burn off, but you Can smell it) and extra metal in the oil (suppose what the filter misses may be too fine to damage much).

 

I don't know about what oils MINI uses from the factory, but many auto makes such as Honda use high-Moly oils which are supposedly good to keep in and supposedly help the break in process. I think the days of detergent-free break-in oils are gone for modern cars.