I'm so frustrated. I think this is probably the last time I change my oil. My other car takes me about 10 minutes or less to change the oil. This is my 2nd time to change the oil in the MINI. The 1st time was a nightmare. I couldn't get the oil filter on...I worked on it for around 5-6 hours. I thought the 2nd time might be easier. Well, here I am. It's 7 PM...sun's going down...it's suppose to storm. I've been working on this for...well let's just say I had to take a lunch break....um...it's time for dinner. My hands and arms are red from leaning in the MINI and trying to put the filter on. I was going to rotate my tires too...it's not look'n good folks. As soon as I finish this oil change, I'm forming an angry mob to hunt down the madman that designed this oil filter-engine configuration. First things first though....any advice for getting this thing back together?

 

I've long offered to pitch in on a contract to NIX the engineer resp'ble....

My new "hint" is to apply firm pressure down on the filter cap while getting it started. Then, let there be no mistake, you need a wrench to get it turned all the way down..... Also, wearing a rubber glove helps me get enuf of a grip to turn the filter housing/cap....

And if u ain't done it yet, next time replace the bung with a Fumoto valve.

 

It must just take tons of practice because I watch Way change my oil and he gets the filter back on in a couple minutes. Sorry to hear your troubles. I have read its really difficult.

 

Best tip is to make sure the filter cartridge has already been fitted over the inlet tube. This allows you to push down on the canister a bit easier and get it started. Also look at the canister and located where the threads start and you can better position the canister so all you need is a very slight rotation to start the threads.

 

+1. If you press the filter down by itself first, it is very easy.

I've never understood why people think its so hard...

 

Get a mechanic's mirror so you can see what you are doing.
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/515778

 

Success! Thanks guys. I read Capt BJ's post...went outside and tried it. It went on the first try. Now I'm going to rotate some tires real fast.

 

I actually find it's really EASY to change the filter on my R53 and it's not even messy since oil naturally drains back to the block rather than get all over everything when you remove the filter.

I have a JCW strut bar and it IS tough to get into with the bar center section in place. A BIG advantage of the JCW is that the center section can be removed leaving the tower plates in place.

Be sure to pick up the proper 36mm oil filter wrench (even Pep Boys has it) and I find that a bar about 15" or so works great for removal without distorting the cover. Just add a little oil to the threads and especially the o-ring so that it will seat without binding which can cause leaks.

Remember that the filter is angled slightly downward and you should be able to start the threads as long as they aren't distorted or damaged.

They are selling a plastic container of latex examination-type gloves for mechanics also at Pep Boys very inexpensively and they are GREAT to make sure that YOU come out as clean as when you started. The plastic can is better since air will eventually degrade the latex and you can re-seal them ensuring longer life. I think they are 48 to a package.

This really ISN'T that difficult..so hopefully you have it solved by now.

Jim

 

 

no doubt gonna jinx myself but I had no problems either first time... now I know I'm doomed...

 

Thanks for the comments! I was thinking about forming that angry mob today, but I think my hands are too sore to hold a flaming torch. (from trying to put the filter on all day) One thing that I did do in the process was get some oil on the stuff below...not a lot...but I couldn't clean it all up. Most of it was accessible, but some of it I couldn't reach. I've never been one to get oil on the car. Will the oil have any effect on the parts down there...other than making them really dirty after I drive down a dirt road?

 

I changed the oil on my '03 MCS for the first time a couple of months ago and was surprised how easy it was given the dire warnings I'd read about here on NAM..........I already had a 36mm socket (from many lifetimes ago, it's used to remove both the flywheel bolt and the genrator nut on a VW beetle engine) and used a 1/2" drive ratchet, the filter loosened up easily and spun right off. Cleaned out the cannister, replaced the oil filter and o-ring, oiled it up lightly and it went right back on, no muss no fuss. Best part is, I didn't have to lay on the ground getting crap in my eyes as I removed it!

 

A little spilled oil isn't going to cause a problem. It's not much of a solvent, so it'll either burn or drip off eventually. Just don't pour a bottle into your ECU. =)

Another tip I figured out last time I changed my oil: the best bottles to transport used oil in are used laundry detergent bottles. The pour spout is designed to collect drips, it seals tightly, and you can see through the plastic to figure out when it's full.

 

I can't really say if the oil will damage or have a negative effect on what it's ended up on other than as you noted "making them really dirty" after driving for a while. You can, if you haven't already, use a product like 'simple green' and a light water rinse from both above and below to wash away most or all of the residue.

Works great on my Ford pick-up that's has leaked from the same place, valve covers, for 17 years. I gave up replacing them every 2 or 3 years due to warping and now just clean it up.

As far as containing the leak from the filter if you loosen it a bit and then wait about 5 or so minutes all the oil should have drained into the crankcase and with a rag 'at the ready' it can be removed without any spills.

Hope this helps...

 

The one bad place for the oil to get is the control arm bushing....which is rubber....and rubber and oil don't mix over the long term. I've had to replace that bushing because it broke down...but only on the side where oil can get to it....same bushing on the other side is fine. I know a couple of folks that also had to replace that bushing...but only on that side.... I can't swear to you that spilled oil was the cause, but looks like a smoking gun to me. So I'm careful about putting rags over that area now "just in case"

And when the bushing got replaced I went poly rather than rubber.....and a small steam cleaner comes in very handy in the garage.....

 

I just purchassed an 04 Mini s and did an oil change for the first time. Ordered the filter on-line and used 10w30 synthetic oil and purchassed a 36 mm socket. Raised the car and drained the old oil. Let the car down and removed the filter canister. Removed the old filter and installed the new one and the o-ring in the canister and very carefully reached down and threaded the new one in place. Poured 4 3/4 qts into my Mini and no leaks and the whole thing took about 45min. I must have been lucky.

 

I have been frustrated by this too and have lots of experience turning wrenches. Artoo has 75000 miles and I have changed the oil every 5000 myself. At one point I thought I had a bad filter canister and bought a new one. No better. I finely sanded and polished the threads on one canister. No difference. It seemed it was easy to get the canister on without the filter but with the filter, no go.

What I have learned is that if you press the filter into the canister really hard (I actually lean on it on a flat surface) it goes on easily. That is with the OEM or Mann filter. The WIX (NAPA) seems to be a bit shorter and those that use it don't seem to complain but it is only OEM for me with the heavy seating.

Hope that helps.

Rich

 

I know the manual suggests 4.? qts. of oil with oil & filter change. You will actually need 5 full qts. Trust me.

 

Rem Guys always use some white greasw on the new oring.

I do maint and services on Mini's all day long.


You have to psuh some pressure on the oil filtre canister while turning it
clockwise. You think you feel your your messing up the threads your not.
There real corse threads.

As far as oil spilling usually just ends up on the axile shaft and low control arm,since the arm is angles the oil usually just drips off the arm.
Just get some brake kleen and shoot from the top of the housing down
to axleshaft. Get it from top. It works. Try doing it before you start
the car. Brake kleen is flammable.


Hope this helps.


Guido