First question : Oh yeah - After several months having that locking glovebox sitting around, I gave it one last shot to remove the key lock cylinder by inserting my original key into the lock, turning half way and smartly pulling. For what ever reason it worked within seconds. It's been a while, but I can't remember if I re-keyed the wafers in the cylinder to match my key. But since the lock cylinder only has 4 wafers (as opposed to 8) just by inserting any Mini key 3/4 of the way and turning it will work to lock & unlock. When I had that cylinder out, I modified it to accept my Mini key to "bottom out" when inserted 3/4 of the way. Works beatifully. I think I wrote a post about it some time ago (2023?) with pics in the "What did you do to your Mini today?" section(?).

I think the reason your original glove box kept popping open - I believe there are 2wo screws on the upper securing latch/bar (not the hook) that are accessible when you have the glovebox out. Adjusting those 2wo screws will allow the bar to slide forward or backwards so the latch hook can grab and hold securely (glovebox stays shut until you pull the handle).

 

Is there a write-up somewhere on how to adjust the lock cylinder wafers for rekeying?

(Edit: To be clear, I found the post you referenced here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...st#post4681174

that’s an interesting start, to be sure!)

I’ll certainly try to adjust the strike plate/bar. That might work. My sense is that the latch/hook structure itself is damaged. Its movement is not constrained to a straight line operation.

 

This may not help but - I had done a write-up on re-keying the wafers/lock cylinder on my door handle in this "Stock Problems/Issues" section: 'Door Lock Cylinder/Repair' post #6 & 7. It is somewhat similar to re-keying the glovebox lock. I still can't find the write-up I did specific to to the glove box lock. Although, I'm pretty sure if you insert your key 3/4 of the way into the glovebox lock and turn it back and forth you'll be surprised that it will work to lock & unlock the lock. You may have to jiggle the key to find the sweet spot. Make sure you try this method before you install the glovebox!
If you decide, or are lucky enough to pull the cylinder (as described earlier in this thread), let me know - I will try to find images of what I did to the cylinder to accept my key without having to find the "sweet spot" everytime OR having to re-key the tumbler (not necessary with the steps I'd just mentioned.)
EDIT/ADDENDUM :
In the link posted above "Door Lock repair" - I referred to the "wafers" as Pins during the dissection and re-keying.

 

Hey - You found my post!
For some reason it does not show up in my profile/post or threads started by Here2Go.
I hope it helps.
BTW: The putty product I used, Apoxie Sculpt, as a "key stop" on the cylinder can be substituted with JB Weld putty.

 

excellent, thanks!

I think I linked your glovebox write up in my previous post.

I was able to remove the cylinder. It was certainly challenging to get the key inserted just the right amount. At one point I thought I had locked myself out of the box, but then realized I could remove the striker/bar….

For fun, I took the cylinder to a local locksmith to see if he could rekey it. He said no, he did not have a mini wedge set. He said he could remove the wedges and I could stick the key in just the right amount and turn it, but it would be fiddly (I think that’s what he said, but I may have misunderstood) I then told him your tactic of filling the deep end with epoxy, which he liked and thought that would work well. But upon reflection, I don’t think you had to remove the wedges, and I did not question him about why removing the wedges would be necessary. So something doesn’t quite add up, and thus my understanding needs bolstering.

 

Before removing the lock cylinder from the glovebox; Were you able to lock and unlock it with the key inserted only 3/4 of the way in? It should've eventually worked (with a bit of fiddling).
Either way - now that you have the cylinder out/in hand you can still try it by holding it firmly in hand or gently holding it with a pair of locking pliers and try inserting the key about 3/4 and turning it to see if works.
There is no need to remove the "wedges" ("wafers" or "pins").
*In order to really match your key to re-key it; You would need to match the 1st 4 wedges (say, from your door lock handle). The wedges in your door lock are numbered and are different cuts/shapes to only accept the pattern/groove scribed on your original Mini key. For the glovebox lock to function as factory; you would need to re-key it with those specific wedges.
However, from what I've discovered; (with your key part way inserted) that obviously isn't true.

 

Yes, prior to removing the cylinder, I was able to lock and unlock it with my key partially inserted. When I first locked the glove box, I had a lot of trouble getting it unlocked again, and worried I’d locked myself out.

I’ve got JB weld kicking around, but I may ask for a small bit of Apoxie Sculpt from a neighbor who uses it for modeling. I feel like if I mess something up, the Apoxie Sculpt might be easier to remove.

 

Awesome - Glad to hear it worked for you!
Haha - Yeah, I'll admit it happened to me too
Your neighbor uses this stuff too? - Very cool.
Just keep in mind; Apoxie Sculpt cures super, super hard.
Whilst you have the cylinder out and sure that your key is inserted at the right depth to be able to lock/unlock - Leave the key inserted undisturbed and apply your putty in the void at the bottom end of the lock cylinder as shown in my post you'd discovered. At room temp Apoxie will cure in about 1-2hrs. You should be safe to remove your key after an hour or so. If for some reason afterwards your key doesn't work to unlock/lock; you may have to scrape out the Apoxie with an exacto knife or dental pick and try again.
Let me know how it works out.