Broken Hood Pull
#76
Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but it the thread describes the problem I had, but offered no solution. I offer the solution :-)
I have Cooper S R56 and had very stupidly disconnected the internal cable from the box under the bonnet that connects it to the two cables that connect to the locks at the front of the bonnet and then closed the bonnet. Aaaarrrggghhhh!!!
My good friend Sean jacked up the car and from underneath used a long screwdriver to release the right hand lock (UK drivers side). He prised open the lock. The screwdriver wasn't long enough to reach the left hand side (US drivers side), so we used a long handled mini paint roller to prise open that lock.
A tough job which overall took two hours, but from underneath the car only took about 20 minutes. We initially tried going through the front scoop and push the plastic box away (i.e. effectively pulling the two cables), but simply couldn't get enough purchase to do this. Hope this helps someone.
I have Cooper S R56 and had very stupidly disconnected the internal cable from the box under the bonnet that connects it to the two cables that connect to the locks at the front of the bonnet and then closed the bonnet. Aaaarrrggghhhh!!!
My good friend Sean jacked up the car and from underneath used a long screwdriver to release the right hand lock (UK drivers side). He prised open the lock. The screwdriver wasn't long enough to reach the left hand side (US drivers side), so we used a long handled mini paint roller to prise open that lock.
A tough job which overall took two hours, but from underneath the car only took about 20 minutes. We initially tried going through the front scoop and push the plastic box away (i.e. effectively pulling the two cables), but simply couldn't get enough purchase to do this. Hope this helps someone.
#77
Yep, a long handle flat head will work if you can find one. I have seen people use a long one with a hook on the end. You have to get a super long one thats skinny. Thanks
One other thing is to just check first that the cable did not pop out of the handle on the inside because the cable was rusted. I hit mine with WD40 up under the hood once a year to prevent sticking and rust.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hood-help.html
One other thing is to just check first that the cable did not pop out of the handle on the inside because the cable was rusted. I hit mine with WD40 up under the hood once a year to prevent sticking and rust.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hood-help.html
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#78
Hood latch
I have reason to believe that the cable to pop the hood has snapped at the hood end, or somewhere in between. I've tried pulling the cable from the compartment and it freely comes in.
Here's the kicker: I was installing my new boost gauge at the time, so the battery is disconnected (aka 1 dead MINI). So is the cowl, wipers, air intake, dash board, and center console. Talk about timing...
Is there anything I can do??? I know a trip to the dealer is in order, but I'd much rather avoid having
Here's the kicker: I was installing my new boost gauge at the time, so the battery is disconnected (aka 1 dead MINI). So is the cowl, wipers, air intake, dash board, and center console. Talk about timing...
Is there anything I can do??? I know a trip to the dealer is in order, but I'd much rather avoid having
Last edited by Cynthia Cressey; 11-02-2019 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Wrong wheel
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