STF (Street Touring FWD) Joining STF in 2014
#1
Joining STF in 2014
Hi folks,
After 3 years in a STU Evo we are ready for something lightweight and nimble and will be building up my daily to compete in STF for 2014. I've started a blog to detail the build. I love my MINI and I'm pretty excited as this will be the first car that I'll be doing all the mechanical work on myself. Usually my husband does the majority of it. Wish me luck in the development and I really look forward to racing with all of you next season.
Michelle
http://watchoutcones.blogspot.com/
After 3 years in a STU Evo we are ready for something lightweight and nimble and will be building up my daily to compete in STF for 2014. I've started a blog to detail the build. I love my MINI and I'm pretty excited as this will be the first car that I'll be doing all the mechanical work on myself. Usually my husband does the majority of it. Wish me luck in the development and I really look forward to racing with all of you next season.
Michelle
http://watchoutcones.blogspot.com/
#2
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...one-doing.html
Michelle that's my pathetic build thread LOL I'll holler at you once the parts become available
Michelle that's my pathetic build thread LOL I'll holler at you once the parts become available
#3
Yay more competitive minis! I'm surprised you're ready to move on from the Evo though. I'm looking at an *SP car once we get rid of the mini. Need something faster
I think you're very close on spring rates/alignment. That's about what we run although our spring rates are softer. I think we're going to be going from 350 to 400 next year for some testing.
SuperPro does make an offset control arm bushing that adds 2 degrees of caster. We haven't tried it because I'm concerned with rubbing with the extra caster. But we're running 235s in STX so there is a lot less space in the wheel well. If you're interested in the bushings sends me a PM as I have a contact in the Subaru world who can get them for far cheaper than I've seen them for sale on the mini sites.
Oh and go ahead and drill and timesert the aluminum rear trailing arms now so you don't have to do it in a rush the night before an event. Ask me how I know
I think you're very close on spring rates/alignment. That's about what we run although our spring rates are softer. I think we're going to be going from 350 to 400 next year for some testing.
SuperPro does make an offset control arm bushing that adds 2 degrees of caster. We haven't tried it because I'm concerned with rubbing with the extra caster. But we're running 235s in STX so there is a lot less space in the wheel well. If you're interested in the bushings sends me a PM as I have a contact in the Subaru world who can get them for far cheaper than I've seen them for sale on the mini sites.
Oh and go ahead and drill and timesert the aluminum rear trailing arms now so you don't have to do it in a rush the night before an event. Ask me how I know
Last edited by v10climber; 09-20-2013 at 06:51 AM.
#4
Drill and what? I've never had any rear control arm issue on the 2011. 49k miles and 3 HARD seasons of autocrossing all over. Maybe 60 events on the car and over 500 runs I'd say. Half on R comps in HS and almost half on the STF setup with -3 up front.
And about 10 events on the 225 r comps with 9s up front and 7.5s out back with the STF setup Running a few more this year...
And about 10 events on the 225 r comps with 9s up front and 7.5s out back with the STF setup Running a few more this year...
#5
Drill and what? I've never had any rear control arm issue on the 2011. 49k miles and 3 HARD seasons of autocrossing all over. Maybe 60 events on the car and over 500 runs I'd say. Half on R comps in HS and almost half on the STF setup with -3 up front.
And about 10 events on the 225 r comps with 9s up front and 7.5s out back with the STF setup Running a few more this year...
And about 10 events on the 225 r comps with 9s up front and 7.5s out back with the STF setup Running a few more this year...
A quick search turned up this thread but there are many others...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...bolt-size.html
#6
Funny story when Michelle swapped in the coil overs, she stripped out the rear trailing arm bolt on the passenger side. Apparently you are suppose to torque it to around 125#, it stripped out well before that. I got the fun job of doing a Helicoil repair on it, seems to be holding up. Luckily our coil overs adjust from the bottom.
Chris
Chris
#7
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#8
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#9
should I use some antiseize or no? using it will probably increase the pressure and I'll probably have to back off the torque spec a bit though
#11
seems kind of hit or miss - mainly miss. i'll be careful though. should be fine. only 2000 miles on the car, not even.
#12
I personally have not had an issue other than back in 2007ish when I unbolted the trailing arm bolt FIRST without having both sides jacked up. That definitely screwed up one of my trailing arms. To adjust the rebound on top, this is what I do now after learning the easy way.....
1) Jack up BOTH sides on the rear(can use one jack but the opposite side teeters so 2 jacks are highly preferable)
2) Unbolt the two 13mm bolts on the top strut mount on each side
3) Then put foot on the top of the brake rotor and push down or have someone do it while you adjust the rebound.
4) start the threads by hand, then bolt the two 13mm bolts back up
5) lower car and test new settings....
Once you get use to it and have proper tools, it should only take 15 minutes or so at most and poses zero risk on the trailing arm :-) If you are in a real hurry and have 2 people, an impact gun for the wheels and two sets of wrenches, this could probably be done within 5 minutes
1) Jack up BOTH sides on the rear(can use one jack but the opposite side teeters so 2 jacks are highly preferable)
2) Unbolt the two 13mm bolts on the top strut mount on each side
3) Then put foot on the top of the brake rotor and push down or have someone do it while you adjust the rebound.
4) start the threads by hand, then bolt the two 13mm bolts back up
5) lower car and test new settings....
Once you get use to it and have proper tools, it should only take 15 minutes or so at most and poses zero risk on the trailing arm :-) If you are in a real hurry and have 2 people, an impact gun for the wheels and two sets of wrenches, this could probably be done within 5 minutes
#13
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