How To Oil cooler/filter housing gasket replacement
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
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I did this repair last spring. It's a P.I.T.A. I removed the intake, and Cat. Then I split the turbo in half removing the cold side (carefully so you don't damage the fins. I also removed the whole plastic intake to the AF.
Now you have some space.
A word to the wise. Take the whole oil filter housing to a machine shop and have them either check it to make sure its actually flat or have them machine it flat so that you have a little more squish when you reinstall it. You will have to move the water reservoir out of the way being careful not to break it. I like bungee chords to hang it from the hood just to let it stay out of the way, but since you are draining most of the fluid out of the radiator removing it is a good idea. (Is it radiator flush time?)
A word to the wise #2.
Replace the oil line, thermostat, and aux water pump while you are down there as well as any water lines that look tired. Make sure you have an oil line that is wrapped in heat reflective material and use new bolts for everything.
A word to the wise #3
Check to make sure your turbo shaft is in good shape. No movement. A machine shop can do this as well. And don't lose the metal gasket that sits between the housing halves. If there is oil in your turbo or the shaft is worn -be prepared (new turbo + new cat)
Now you have some space.
A word to the wise. Take the whole oil filter housing to a machine shop and have them either check it to make sure its actually flat or have them machine it flat so that you have a little more squish when you reinstall it. You will have to move the water reservoir out of the way being careful not to break it. I like bungee chords to hang it from the hood just to let it stay out of the way, but since you are draining most of the fluid out of the radiator removing it is a good idea. (Is it radiator flush time?)
A word to the wise #2.
Replace the oil line, thermostat, and aux water pump while you are down there as well as any water lines that look tired. Make sure you have an oil line that is wrapped in heat reflective material and use new bolts for everything.
A word to the wise #3
Check to make sure your turbo shaft is in good shape. No movement. A machine shop can do this as well. And don't lose the metal gasket that sits between the housing halves. If there is oil in your turbo or the shaft is worn -be prepared (new turbo + new cat)
How much did the machine shop charge for that? Might be cheaper to just buy a new one? Or maybe use a straight edge and eyeball it to make sure the original unit isn't warped.
Note that the aux water pump was part of a recall, so if you haven't had it changed, consider it guys.
I would always use new metal gaskets when you put the cat back in place against the turbo. It hurts to pay $12 each time but it aint worth doing it twice to save $12.
Thanks for the advice on the turbo. I didnt split mine, but next time I know. I assume that is also a one time use gasket only?
Oil filter
The machine shop didnt charge me, BUT i should have asked them to grind off another .001" just to make sure there was enough squish to get a good seal. The bolt pattern is useless on these things and a new piece costs $400~ Avoid that mistake. My housing still leaks which means wasted oil, a constant mess on the floor, hot stinky oil on the engine and another repair in the future. And consider the time. I've learned to do repairs in groups. Fix the problem + preventative maintenance. Goid luck. Report back if i've been helpful. Its more fun to drive than fix stuff! DR
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
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The bolt pattern is inappropriate. They have 43 bolts holding a heat shield for the exhaust manifold but the goddamn oil cooler has 4 tiny misplaced bolt locations. Make any sense? Not to me.
Bro, I had to do this job twice and the dealer did too before I owned the car. Trust me when I tell you that I feel your pain.
Bro, I had to do this job twice and the dealer did too before I owned the car. Trust me when I tell you that I feel your pain.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 14
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i think i removed all the bolts holding it, its that bracket in the middle from the turbo that seems to be holding me back...if not do i just wiggle it out once all the other bolts are out...or do i have to remove that turbo bracket one as well... i looked at your posts and i got this far its just the sob is not moving?
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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Guys, i just got the mother of all reach arounds with no vaseline from the dealer. I got all the gaskets replaced just fine. About two months ago i did the dubious timing chain replacement and it went fine so i thought. But car wouldn't start a few days ago so i got frustrated and just had it towed to the dealership. And today he tells me the crankshaft bolt came loose (ironically when i got there it wasn't loose as he couldn't move it) and that he thinks 99% chance i need a head job as there was no compression. it would turn over but not crank. i'm waiting on the quote but i already know its going to be crazy as the mechanic said they have to send it out to a third party to get straightened out. Still owe $7,000 on the damn car and of course its out of warranty. He mentioned new engine and i was like you SOB's are just determined to get that initial money out of me since i didn't let them do the initial work when they diagnosed it the first time. which was the timing chain and damn near all the damn seals down there, came to about $6500 the first time. I know i friction tightened and torqued that bolt the first time right and tight. Any thoughts or ideas from the community?
Sorry to hear this :(
Did you get a new bolt and torque it to spec with the timing chain ? Or reuse the old one ?
Did you get a new bolt and torque it to spec with the timing chain ? Or reuse the old one ?
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6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,784
Likes: 197
Guys, i just got the mother of all reach arounds with no vaseline from the dealer. I got all the gaskets replaced just fine. About two months ago i did the dubious timing chain replacement and it went fine so i thought. But car wouldn't start a few days ago so i got frustrated and just had it towed to the dealership. And today he tells me the crankshaft bolt came loose (ironically when i got there it wasn't loose as he couldn't move it) and that he thinks 99% chance i need a head job as there was no compression. it would turn over but not crank. i'm waiting on the quote but i already know its going to be crazy as the mechanic said they have to send it out to a third party to get straightened out. Still owe $7,000 on the damn car and of course its out of warranty. He mentioned new engine and i was like you SOB's are just determined to get that initial money out of me since i didn't let them do the initial work when they diagnosed it the first time. which was the timing chain and damn near all the damn seals down there, came to about $6500 the first time. I know i friction tightened and torqued that bolt the first time right and tight. Any thoughts or ideas from the community?
BTW, you need to start a new thread on this topic. It demands its own thread.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 14
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It was the existing bolt i used but i'm pretty damn sure i tightened it to spec or at least tightened the hell out of it. Just heard from the dealer and this fool was talking about $8,000 for a head job off the top of this head and then tried to steer me in the direction of a new engine to the tune of about $11,000. Man how did this go so damn wrong. I think i will get that second opinion.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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New thread here in case anyone has anymore thoughts or just chime in with the damn frustration as i am right about now.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4195288
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4195288
It was the existing bolt i used but i'm pretty damn sure i tightened it to spec or at least tightened the hell out of it. Just heard from the dealer and this fool was talking about $8,000 for a head job off the top of this head and then tried to steer me in the direction of a new engine to the tune of about $11,000. Man how did this go so damn wrong. I think i will get that second opinion.
It was probably a CAM shaft bolt that came loose....not Crank Shaft.
Unfortunate, pay me now or pay me later situation.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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Well i didn't do it entirely myself. I had an actual ASE certified mechanic doing most of the work. And i bought the cam tool kit to make sure timing was TDC. So i by no means am a novice. What ticks me off with this is they keep saying i did everything right, just the bolt came loose, but again as i said...ironically it wouldn't budge when i went to the shop. again i think they spitballing to recoup what they didn't get before.
Have you had the chance to read this yet. May have applied in your case before doing that work.
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
Vendor - Detroit Tuned 15 Years
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,859
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From: Clawson, MI
Those bolts are to be torqued to 24 ft lbs, I've never had one break during install.
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Nick@DetroitTuned.com
Vendor - Detroit Tuned 15 Years
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 34
From: Clawson, MI
We buy them directly from the dealer in mass quantity, in MINI packaging, which has been an ongoing ordeal for over 3 years. And as I said, I've installed hundreds of these kits myself and not once have I had a banjo bolt break.
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Nick@DetroitTuned.com
Vendor - Detroit Tuned 15 Years
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 34
From: Clawson, MI
That is not the bolts that we stock or ship. We have always shipped our kits out with MINI OE hardware.
I would like to further talk about this, but this is not the place to clutter with garble.
I'll PM you and we can go from there.
I would like to further talk about this, but this is not the place to clutter with garble.
I'll PM you and we can go from there.
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Agree, the Detroit Tuned kit uses Mini OE high quality banjo bolts and they are strong. I installed their kit and the banjo bolts are an exact match and labeled as OEM. I read on a different thread about someone installing a different brand "upgrade" turbo oil feed line kit from Mini Mania or Out Motoring and the banjo bolt broke. I don't remember what brand the kit was that was mentioned.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
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I need to apologize for the confusion nkfry.
I just checked my files and I made a mistake and named Detroit Tuned when it was WAY MOTOR WORKS that sold me that kit.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-sta...-line-kit.html
Again, my apologies. I will correct the original post if it allows me to edit.
I just checked my files and I made a mistake and named Detroit Tuned when it was WAY MOTOR WORKS that sold me that kit.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-sta...-line-kit.html
Again, my apologies. I will correct the original post if it allows me to edit.
Last edited by Lex2008; Apr 11, 2016 at 01:28 PM.
Vendor - Detroit Tuned 15 Years
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 34
From: Clawson, MI
I need to apologize for the confusion nkfry.
I just checked my fioles and I made a mistake and named Detroit Tuned when it was WAY MOTOR WORKS that sold me that kit.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-sta...-line-kit.html
Again, my apologies. I will correct the original post if it allows me to edit.
I just checked my fioles and I made a mistake and named Detroit Tuned when it was WAY MOTOR WORKS that sold me that kit.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-sta...-line-kit.html
Again, my apologies. I will correct the original post if it allows me to edit.
We strive to supply our customers with a quality part, not the lowest price.
Quality is worth every penny and that is why we use OE parts wherever applicable and not cheap bargain hardware.
Thanks
Nick
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