This has been my experience, not sure if I have been doing things right or not, but this has been my experience......

It definitely helps with rotation having the higher pressures. Lower pressures also allow for rotation, just a different kind. High pressure rotation is more of a quick and precise rotation. Low pressure rotation is a slower, more predictable rotation. I, myself, like the quicker/more precise rotation. Sort of a quick off throttle, rotate, back on throttle respose with very little off throttle time in order to induce rotation. If the R53 had 2.5 negative camber up front to optimize front grip, it wouldn't probably benefit from higher pressures with a 215/40/16 V710 on the rear to take away grip from the rear. The first and foremost goal is to optimize front grip, but, with no camber, there isn't much besides shock settings and front pressure that can be changed. Basically, setup front fairly soft, put pressures 45ish and adjust rear accordingly to induce desired rotation. Thats about all that can be done. :-)

 

Got it. Just have never heard of this before.

Thanks OasisT

 

yeah, most of this is just your personal prefrence of rotation. I personally run mine even lower than most all that have been mentioned. I run around 39f/34r (this varies on surface type and surface temp). I've played with air pressure like nobody's business over the last 2 seasons, and this is what's given me the best results for my V710's.

 

Of course surface type/temp/wet/dry will change everything too.

 

Pressures in stock trim are quite different than from a modded set-up. For example, here are some pressures I have run on the exact same set of tires before and after modifications.

Stock Class: Front 48-50psi (fighting tire roll-over) Rear 50+psi (for rotation).

FSP Class: Front 42psi (-2.1 degrees camber) Rear 35psi
(see signiture below for complete list of mods)

 

Early on when I was competing, I always used lower pressures in the rear to induce rotation. I eventually thought about it and figured that since there is an optimum pressure for grip and anything above or below that pressure would reduce the pressure, I would use higher pressures, since the tire would have less friction, and that should be faster.

Someone mentioned earlier that this was to mask a poor handling car. Um, what do we think STOCK cars are?

But, I have to admit, I have to run slightly lower pressures in the front. If I run anything higher than 40-42psi, there is less ultimate grip. I have found the optimum to be in the 38-40psi range, even though it looks like the tire is rolling over too much. Running the larger tires has helped this.

 

I am hoping it was just a defective tire doesn't seam to be any other good explanation guess time will tell

 

1. Were the tires recently mounted? Like the same day of the event? If so, the slippery stuff they use to mount the tires may not have dried yet.

2. Also, the stock rims have a "run flat shelf" that makes stiff sidewall race tires much more difficult to mount than with standard rims.

Maybe both 1 & 2 contributed to the failure?

 

It was the 3rd event for the tires as I recall

 

Late to the party, but just have to contribute my two cents.

I would bet money on a mounting error. 710s are an absolute ***** to mount, particularly if you get down into the 40 series. Lots of lube, lots of heat, and sometimes they still don't want to seat properly.

Its the tire pressure that keeps the bead properly seated, so its a low pressure that would cause this failure if the tire was correctly mounted.