while the engines out!
while the engines out!
My car is going to the shop tomorrow to get it back up and running. Since the engine is going to be out of it. what should i get so while i have access to the engine bay. I got a new clutch and tranny a little more than a year ago. I don't think i need a front sway bar. This is a daily driver/track car. I am certainly on a budget. my thoughts were bushings and/or engine damper.
input from track junkies/racers would be appreciated. What else should be checked changed to maintain a durable track car?
input from track junkies/racers would be appreciated. What else should be checked changed to maintain a durable track car?
I just got the Alta PSRS bushings and highly recommend them.
Better turn in - did not really affect the ride.
You gotta remove the A arms and press the old bushings out and the new ones back in.
You gotta remove the A arms and press the old bushings out and the new ones back in.
Did you find a motor? "Columbian" in this thread totalled his car-might be a way of getting it...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=56069&page=4
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=56069&page=4
Eurethane bushings are great for a track only car...
I put Mini-Madness motor mount inserts in last weekend & removed them the next day because of excessive HVH.
I also replaced every single bushing in a previous Honda & put new rubber bushings back in the car after they started to squeak. The thick white lubricant that comes with all of these bushings turns to glue really quickly which causes a lot of resistance & squeaking (who wants to remove all their bushings every 5K miles to lube them?!?).
I put Mini-Madness motor mount inserts in last weekend & removed them the next day because of excessive HVH.
I also replaced every single bushing in a previous Honda & put new rubber bushings back in the car after they started to squeak. The thick white lubricant that comes with all of these bushings turns to glue really quickly which causes a lot of resistance & squeaking (who wants to remove all their bushings every 5K miles to lube them?!?).
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The bushings are not supposed to move, the reason the "lube" turns to glue is that you don't want the bushing turning, you only want it to flex. If you lube them so that they move, you're defeating the purpose........the only way to have bushings that move is to use bronze or something, then put a grease zerk in and lube them every 3k miles or so, they way we used to back in the day. That's what my Dino Ferrari had.........
The trick to the bushings is not to tighten the bolts down till the car is on the ground in it's normal position - roll it back and forth to settle the suspension, then tighten them while it's on the ground. Then they won't squeek.......
The trick to the bushings is not to tighten the bolts down till the car is on the ground in it's normal position - roll it back and forth to settle the suspension, then tighten them while it's on the ground. Then they won't squeek.......
I'm not getting a new engine. I'm going to be using my block and head. The block is going to the machine shop to get cleaned up for some new pistons. We did a simple leak test on the head yesterday. Flip the head over and fill the bottom (it's upside down remember) of each valve area with solvent. You could see some of the solvent coming out of the exhaust side of 4 right away. after a few minutes you could also see it coming out of the intake on 1 and exhaust of 3. As you may guess, it's getting a vaulve job before it goes back on.
I can't afford it but it seems like the perfect time to get a new cam. It's came out to do the leak test. Anywhere i can get a schreik cam for less than $400? No no, damn you temtation. A cam with out the proper ECU tuning is only as good as the sticker on the window. I'm also thinking no on the motor mounts since it is a daily driver or it will be when i get it back in a few weeks.
I can't afford it but it seems like the perfect time to get a new cam. It's came out to do the leak test. Anywhere i can get a schreik cam for less than $400? No no, damn you temtation. A cam with out the proper ECU tuning is only as good as the sticker on the window. I'm also thinking no on the motor mounts since it is a daily driver or it will be when i get it back in a few weeks.
I just got a call from the shop. they gave my car a couple revs. Man it was loud. Here are the changes that were made
Schrick cam
jackson racing header
new belt
new JE pistons .002 over from the boys at fireballed
cylinders were bored .002 over to clean up old walls were the lan broke on the stock piston.
clean up the head mild polishing and porting
valve job now with 3 angles.
Dinosaur oil for the break in period
new S/C oil
Aside from that i've ordered a used DFIC to try and keep things cool
Unichip will go in after the break-in period to try and keep from blowing up the motor again.
I should be track ready(knock repeatedly on wood) for the VIR event on 7-7-07. Hey, could be my lucky day.
Schrick cam
jackson racing header
new belt
new JE pistons .002 over from the boys at fireballed
cylinders were bored .002 over to clean up old walls were the lan broke on the stock piston.
clean up the head mild polishing and porting
valve job now with 3 angles.
Dinosaur oil for the break in period
new S/C oil
Aside from that i've ordered a used DFIC to try and keep things cool
Unichip will go in after the break-in period to try and keep from blowing up the motor again.
I should be track ready(knock repeatedly on wood) for the VIR event on 7-7-07. Hey, could be my lucky day.
Last edited by bluesmini; Jun 25, 2007 at 11:06 AM.
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